mikeG
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Posts posted by mikeG
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the innnards from the 1100XX bars fit as long you get them out without damage
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So I take it that you called the "nazi"? He does other stuff like chains, wheel bearings etc. Real character! Whatever you do, don't ask him to mount a mail order tire!
MikeG
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check the "tire nazi" if you need tires--reasonable prices, and he comes to you in a truck. www.azmctires.com phone 781-888-4737 or 508-875-1027
MikeG
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Carlos, it works well with a vacuum, and sometimes OK with a bag also. Easy to tell when it is clogged--throws all the sawdust back at you. Good luck.
MikeG
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Not a bad saw. I've had one for about 3 yrs. I liked the light weight aspect-easy to move around, but sits solidly on the floor when you don''t want it to move. Plenty of power. The outlet does clog up pretty easily and this starts throwing all the sawdust out the top. The miter serves as a nice panel cutter. Non-standard miter slot though, so you can't fit the tenon cutting attachments and such. Good luck.
MikeG
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I'll second the motion. Mine runs fine with no re-programming.
MikeG
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Cabinet making does not use many nails. Most things are done with joints, glue, and maybe bisquits or dowels. The biggest use for a finish nailer would be woodwork.
MikeG
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Great looking house. That house would be about $700K anywhere within 40 miles of Boston! Now I know why you guys like Texas. But we get to have all the fun in the snow!
MikeG
metrowest Boston
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I put a clear sealer on the slab the next morning after they poured it. Not only seals the floor but makes it take longer to cure, resulting in a stronger slab. We'll see.
MikeG
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The floor is poured as a 1 pc slab with 18 " deep walls around the outside. I wasn't sure that the cement would stay in wall forms if I tried to elevate the walls above the slab all in one pour. The wood has to be 8" above grade so you either have to pour a wall above grade or build up the slab with blocks. Most foundations are 3 pc, footings, walls, then floor, done sequentially. I saved about $1000 by doing just one pour.
MikeG
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Shell Rotella 5W40 synthetic--Walmart has it for $13/gal--works great
MikeG
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Garage is done minus paint and the door-check it out
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BG44K and Techron are the best. Everything else is just snake oil. (maybe Redline OK also-the other Walmart stuff is just solvent)
MikeG
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B&D are designed for the casual user--you know--the one who buys the tool and never uses it. I've had a couple of their tools ie cordless drill, and they are not even on a level with cheap Sears tools. The cheap Sears tools are just mediocre but last a long time. The B&D are crap and fall apart
MikeG
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Brick pavers are OK but the ground must be prepped right ie dug out and refilled with good draining fill, compacted, and the right underlay material used. Concrete pavers are worth considering also--lots of shapes and sizes--look like cobblestones. These would be my pick. Trex looks very fake IMHO. Goes well with plastic siding!
MikeG
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Always put in a dedicated elecrical line for any decent compressor. They pull 14-15a and more on startup. Mine has a very heavy cord and recommends no extension cords be used.
MikeG
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I have the Ryobi table saw and like it very much. Bought it used(looked new) for $200. Has a non-standard miter guage and slot so it will be harder to get tenoning jigs and such. The miter guage is actually made like a panel cutter, but I haven't used it much because I have a radial arm saw and the miter saw. I built an outfeed and aux side table for the Ryobi also, because the table is kinda small. Also has a router mounting pad. Very high speed motor too, at least compared to the Sears that it replaced.
MikeG
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For non-commercial use, even the oil-less ones work fine. I have a 30 gal, 115volt, Sears that runs nail guns, impact wrenches etc without breaking a sweat. Easily portable and takes minimal space. The die grinders and sanders are the heaviest users of air I think. You can get a large stationary, belt drive, for about $500. Commercial ones with multiple cyclinders are less than $1000.
MikeG
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I Put the sealer on right after the slab was poured. I sealed and painted my cellar floor and I'm not convinced it was worth it. Not worth doing a garage IMO.
MikeG
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My garage is built on a floating slab also. 18" deep all around(grade beam) 12" thick, rebar all around, reinforcing wire across slab, 5-6"slab. No engineer needed where I live-covered by building codes. Yes, I do have a permit. Although they are a pain in the a$$, they ae a necessary evil protecting your insurance and ability to sell your house.
MikeG
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They have some good books at Home Depot on designing and building decks. Fun jobs. Check the Yankee Workshop(Norm Abrams) also. Tons of designs on line but you have to pay. Unless you want it very fancy, you can easliy design it yourself. Some of the lumber yards have architects on staff, or at least can tell you the beam sizes etc for code. Screw down the deck boards and put them diagonal for visual and structural strength. Consider making part of the deck a screened porch or use storm windows for a 3 season porch. If you size the windows for standard sizes, the storim windows are very cheap and the results are worthwhile. I closed in half my deck. I don't know where you are, but in the woods of Massachusetts, the bugs are pretty bad.
Mike G
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Had to have a place for daughter's car, yard toys ie tractor, snow blower etc. Started it beginning of October 03, will finish in a couple weeks. Particulars: 18X24x11H, cost about $8000, labor free(me and friends) except for excavating and cement slab pouring. Ball busting job but worth it. Check it out.
MikeG
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Be carefull when using a car battery to jump a motorcycle. The starter is not the problem--it will only draw what it needs off the car battery. However, if the MC battery is run down, say 11 volts, and the car battery is charged up, or the car is running, the car battery can be at 13-14 volts. Given the low impedance of the 2 batteries, and the voltage difference, the car battery can pump LOTs of amps into the MC battery, potentially damaging it or blowing it up! Whenever I jump a MC(and I have done it numerous times), never have the car running, and just touch the jumper cables, start the MC, and take the cables off.
MikeG(yes I'm an EE)
Street pipes
in The Garage
Posted
I'ver got the Yosh RS3's and they are significantly louder than stock. They drone a bit at low speeds-have to wear earplugs. Not that loud to the outside world according to friends I ride with though.