speedygeezer

http://groups.msn.com/toddsharleypix/tow1.msnw

This may be common knowledge, but, when talking chains, make sure it is a 530 - regardless of brand. I tried a 520 and it was junk in 8K miles......

"Apparently I have nothing to worry about..." Unless it concerns motorcycle mechanical thingys..............

....so that vapor from the right side only is normal. But only if you're right-handed. Left-handed people - like me - find the vapor exiting the left can. Also, I heard that daves01XX is going to start recycling these lifters - you GO, Dave! Mine are on the way.

Thanks for correcting me on that, John - I never can remember which one it is. BTW Tom, I've got 5 or 6 used lifters on the shelf - if you'd like, I'll overnite 'em to you so you can take them with you to the Harley Tech Center.

Tom, I'm sorry to inform you that the noise you are hearing is most likely due to the pickup coil on the stator. These can break off and migrate to the water pump, which in turn spits it down thru #3 water jacket and into the combustion chamber. The fix is to disconnect #3 plug wire and take the bike to your nearest Harley dealer for repair.

Or you could call Alloy Wheel Repair at 918-269-7202 in Tulsa.................I usually just use a crescent wrench if the ding isn't too large.

The XX was probably included in that patent as "prior art". Evidently there are some similarities between it and the patent application for that bike, so it showed up in your search. I believe that is due to a "tag" of some sort in the USPTO archives.

White smoke = coolant Blue smoke = oil Black smoke = too much gas. Check the oil dipstick to see if the oil is milky. If the oil is discolored, coolant is leaking from somewhere and into the crankcase. If it is normal colored and the smoke continues to be whitish, then there is either a hole or a crack in the head, or the head gasket is leaking. When a vehicle sits for a long period - usually several months - the valve seals can shrink which allows oil to leak past them and into the combustion chamber. Upon ignition, blue smoke will be visible from the exhaust, but with use, the seals will again expand which will stop the leak and there will be no more blue smoke. If you continue to be concerned about the condition of the engine, do a compression check on it.

Yup - they do exist. At last year's MegaXX, both daves01XX and I had rears that slid all over the place. S/N's were, 6U7D887T-1904 (Dave's), and mine was 6U7D887T-2304. The production dates were the last four digits 1904 = 19th week of 2004 and 2304 = the 23rd week of 2004. You might check your #'s and see if they're similar. I sold mine to RedJ when I got home after the meet cause he commutes on I-35 - no corners except for on/off ramps.

Yup - its sitting here waiting until I need it. Prices have gone up a few bucks, tho - this one cost $94 delivered.

Rear tire has just hit 5,000 miles and is just about gone. Front tire is holding up quite well. It appears that these tires will last as long as the Avon 45/46 combo I have been running, they feel and handle identically to the Avons, no issues in the rain, and cost $150 for the pair, delivered. YRMV.

This is from a 2000 manual, but should be the same for all years (88-00). The brake lever operates the right front caliper only. The brake pedal simultaneously operates the left front caliper and the rear caliper. When replacing fluid from the brake pedal system, replace fluid from the left front caliper line first, then the rear caliper. A Mityvac is a cheap, handy tool.

Rear tire - Shinko 009 - has 3200 miles on it and 4/32" of tread in the center. Started the OzarXX trip with 42 psi in it and it now shows 40 psi. Front tire - Shinko 009 - has 1400 miles on it and shows some stepping (cupping) an inch on either side of centerline. Started with 40 psi and it now has 38 psi. I will keep 42 psi in the front for the next 1K miles to see how that affects the problem. No hint of sliding either tire so far, even when brand new. Have not ridden in rain, so I can't comment on that aspect. Front tire - $65 delivered. Rear tire - $90 delivered. Ridenow.com. Last several sets of tires have been Avon 45/46's. Fronts had plenty of tread at 7500 miles, but they were cupped out too much to be in balance. Probably due to my poor air pressure monitoring. Rears gave me 4500 miles and were pretty much gone in the centers by then. Summation: at this point, the Shinkos appear to wear better than the Avon and handle the corners just as well. The stepping of the front concerns me a bit, but I'll have to play with the air pressure to get that one figured out. It may be too late for this tire since, once a wear pattern develops, it seldom disappears. Will follow up as necessary.

Are both the white plastic connector that plugs in to the sending unit and the small, black connector at the left frame rail next to the + battery terminal inserted properly?

What's headshake? I always thought that was when you shake the dew off your lily.............. :icon_think:

I don't know if I'm the guy you're referring to, Tim, but it happened to me also. The CCT is part #4 on the link. The lifter is part #16, and this is the part that is commonly (and incorrectly) called the CCT. http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/200_0351/cam...580&parent=5570

My main reason for trying them was to be able to use them on all my new tires - dump in an oz or 2 and I'm good to go. Had that worked, it would have been a good deal - and cheap. But, 'twas not to be. Maybe Robert (inventor) will have some more ideas when he reads the results. Never know about some of this stuff, and it only cost $9 plus a couple gallons of gas. Oh, and about 12 hours labor........But heck, I didn't have anything else to do. I did sharpen up my tire and wheel removal and installation skills, tho.

They didn't work in the tires on my bike. We (bead inventor and I) don't know why, either. He claims they work in other motorcycle tires, but he hasn't identified specific tire sizes or models of bikes yet. Apparently these beads have been around for quite a while and are working fine in truck, bus and motorhome tires. Of course, these vehicles seldom exceed 75 mph, so that may be why they work. They're ok up to 75 mph on the Bird, but that won't cut it.

Got 8 oz on the way - will advise.

How about these? http://www.innovativebalancing.com/

Lots of good info here http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-tir...cycle-tires.htm.

I've used a 50-50 mixture of Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Mazola oil and have gotten excellent results. Shifts are extremely smooth, too. I've got 38K on my Bird and I haven't changed the oil or filter yet. Doesn't get much better than this.......... :icon_clap: :icon_clap:

I've had four sets of them and never had a problem with them. Even used them on the track and had zero chicken strips - no sliding. Course, I'm an old fucker, so maybe I didn't push them as hard as you do. No issues in the rain, either. My last rear got 5500 miles and the fronts 8K with a little cupping. Excellent tires, imho. :icon_clap:

Installed an 009 on the rear - only got a few miles on it, but it feels good. $90.94 to my door incl. shipping from RideNow.com. http://banditalley.com/v-web/bulletin/bb/v...der=asc&start=0