Hookman49
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Posts posted by Hookman49
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I am a shipping/receiving manager and have been for the past 15 years. DHL sucks monkey dick! They are cheap, but lose shit and destroy product. We had a big account (Disney) that used DHL. They did so for about 6 months. Had more loses and damaged goods then anyother carrier combined.
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Shit, I was afraid of that. On the way home I tried a few things. I could really make it happen if my rpm's dropped below 4000. Will check the install of the battery. Shit. I have went through so many batterys lately.
Many batteries on the same bike? Possible stator or R/R problem?
Glad to hear it's all better, hope I'm not making you paranoid.
Yep I should explain. I did have a R/R problem and that is why I was going through batteries. Changed it with a new R1 R/R. That I hope is all better now too.
Thanks
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Well I went out and checked my connections and the one positve cable was loose . Bikey all better now.
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Hate to tell you this, Ken, but its a low voltage issue. Check the state of charge of your battery, the grounds, and whether its charging or not.
Shit, I was afraid of that. On the way home I tried a few things. I could really make it happen if my rpm's dropped below 4000. Will check the install of the battery. Shit. I have went through so many batterys lately.
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Ok, first ride of the season this morning and I seem to be having an issue with my speedometer. It seems to work ok and then it will go to zero and back and forth. Almost like when my r/r shit the bed (but all may gauges were doing it then).
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Ken
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Thanx
Went down today and talked to the actual service worker. He seems to agree that the regulator/ rectifier is bad. Finially got somewhere. Problem now is finding one. It seems the 1999 and up is diffrent from the 1997-8. Where did you find yours? Is there another bike that uses the same one?
Thanx
If you want a Honda one you can get it from Ron Ayers. But I would check and see if the R1 would work on your bike. Someone here might have that answer.
Ken
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Over the summer my battery began to die. I live on a hill and was able to bump start on the way to work and again to come home. Finally got a new batery and after a week the bike died on the freeway. First the display went dead and then on the off ramp the bike died. Pulled over and the head light was dim. I parked the bike and after work recharged the battery and when I put it on the bike the lights/ display came on first few seconds and then died again. I had the battery checked and its good. Now the bike won't do anything. Thought I'd try this forum before I took it to the dealership. Oh its a 1998 with 50,000 miles.
My thoughts are that it is one of a few things.
1. The main fuse went. Not sure why this would have happened or why it would have allowed me to get off the freeway, other than my guardian angel was looking out for me.
2. Because I ran the bike off the stator all summer it has given up the ghost and now instead of charging is pulling charge.
3. Sears was wrong about the battery being good.
4.????????
Any help would be appreciated.
What would you replace before going to the dealership?
Or can anyone recommend an alternative to the dealership here in San Diego CA.
Thanx
X-topher
Everything you stated here is what happend to my bike. Now I can't tell you what the problem is (and would never try) but my problem was fixed after I replaced me reg/rec. We took it out and it was a mess.
Ken
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Yep, replaced mine right around 50,000 miles as well (shit the bed on me at NeXXt). I replaced mine with an R1 unit though. Stayed away from the Honda one this time.
Ken
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My dirty old chain with lots of lube on it works better than any CLEAN chain.
+1
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Thanks guys!!!
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After some searching here I found this link.
http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/...eg_replace.html
I must be blind, but I can't find out what year or part# from the R1 I need to order.
Can anyone help? Looks fairly easy to do this swap.
Ken
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interested in a 5k.
Depending on price, I might be as well.
Ken
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:lmao: :clap:manuel says 10-40What's Pedro's recommendation?
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I am getting right around 40mpg highway. That is running in 6th and just taking it easy. But most of the time I am playing and been getting around 32 - 34.
Ken
Ps. My bike is a 97.
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Don˛t buy those,they are fucking junk.I got couple 2 years ago,one died last year,second went south couple weeks ego.Junk.Junk.
I concur. They are crap. But last year I was riding in PA and my battery shit the bed. On Sunday afternoon there was nothing around but Wal-Mart. So in goes the Wal-Mart battery. Lasted till the end of the season, but that was it.
Ken
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Springs and valving first
I understand replacing springs, but what do you mean by "valving"? Do you mean adding Race Tech
vales or something done to the stock fork?
Yep, I replaced with Race Tech gold valves.
Ken
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My vote- start with front springs. Dollar for dollar it's the best money spent on the XX supsension. Replace the front springs, set your sag front and rear, then decide what you want to do next.
I concour. I just had my front springs and valves done. Should have done it a long time ago.
Ken
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I ordered Pilot Roads last week from here. http://www.tireexpress.com/
$219.99 Shipped. Was running the Avon 45/46. Trying the Roads this time.
Ken
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All in all it took a day and a half to take the body work off the bike(because I was too ham fisted) and a half day to get the lines on and bled.
A day and a half! :shock: Dude, call me next time. I could have had all the body work off for you in no time.
Ken
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Mac, I think it is 110 links.
Ken
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Got a wheel with a pilot road you can borrow bro.
Thanks "D"
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Got a flat the other day on the way to work. Not a big deal since the tire was getting to the point of needing to be replaced anyways.
But my problem is SWmoto is not open this week. Really need a tire. I do have one that has about 2,000 miles on it but I had a flat with that in Canada and took it off when I got home.
It stayed up the whole way back last year and did not lose any air, but thought I should replace it. Thinking of putting this tire back on.
What is your guys opinions on riding with a plug in the tire?
Thanks,
Ken
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Play in the buttons isn't normal, so replace the disc if it's bothering you.
Ken (Hookman49) has had a rattling disc for some time now, and hasn't had a problem. His has a lot more than 1mm play, though
Mine still rattle. Have over 52,000 on the clock with no problem.
Ken
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Yeah I went to Honda HP4 10W-40 after I couldn't get the red cap M1 anymore, and for me the most noticable thing was a drop in running temps. At full bore on M1 15/50 my temps would be about 190 to 192 and would shoot up to about 230 at idle. When running the 10W40, at full bore my temps are around 180, in similar ambient temperatures, and at idle about 215 to 220. <shrug>
Hummm,
Does anyone have a answer to this? I would have thought that the temps would have been higher with the 10W40 over the 15/50.
Yeah Ken, It's still early spring and not summer yet :poke:
FAG!!!
DHL = low cost shipping
in Useful Product Links & Vendor Reviews
Posted
Amen