RedEye
-
Posts
170 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by RedEye
-
-
Okay, I see what you did: it says "$69.00 for one" so you put 2 in the cart. In Danmoto engrish, one = one pair, one set, etc. Yes, these clipons are sixty nine bucks a PAIR. You can see why the poor finish didn't bother me overly much. Helibars aren't adjustable, look like they were made in a grade 9 shop class, and cost what, $300? I can live with some touch up work on my Danmotos.
-
I have a 50mm set for my ZX front end swap. Basic construction is sound, they are uber-adjustable. Finish is not good. There are several little nicks and scrapes on the bars and the clamps have burrs that would definitely scratch the forks if you didn't clean them up first. If you don't mind spending some quality time with a Dremel then go for it . . . I don't think any other bars are as adjustable as these. One thing to note is that the bars are solid aluminum, not tubular. If you have heated grips you'll need to insulate the left side. I'm still not sure how I'm going to mount my bar end signal lights. Sliding them into the bars and running the wiring inside the tube is not an option anymore.
Also, I'm not sure how you got that shipping price; mine cost $28 to ship to Canada and I get $30 when I put Kansas in the estimator.
-
If you're rich/brave/single/stupid, go for it.
Supercharger it is then.
-
Damn you, voice of reason!
Ah well, probably for the best. I didn't think FCRs would be overly practical, I just wanted some new toys purely for the joy of fucking around with something new. The same guy is selling me a complete Hawk GT SSSA setup, everything from the swinger pivot back for $200 plus shipping. -
I have A chance to buy a set of these fairly cheap, carbs only (ad says no velocity stacks, air filters, or TPS, came with the guy's 900RR). My questions: would getting these working on an XX be a reasonable project or a money pit/facepalm/killing spree sort of thing . . . and would doing so make any sense whatsoever on a daily driver streetbike?
-
Catalog prices can be pretty insane when the industry isn't feeling a lot of competition from the internet. Even with the discounts we get at work for wholesale and high volume, some of the prices we pay for stuff make me ill. If only the purchaser was ambitious enough to actually hunt for good values instead of settling for the convenience of getting as much stuff through as few suppliers as possible . . .
Anyway, one of the ebay vendors for this particular bearing is called punchbuggy -- seems like we share a part with the old vee-dub
So there's one thing that'll always be in stock somewhere 
-
Here's one source. Putting the bearing size into google will find many others, including a few dozen on ebay. According to the guy I talked to, 80% of the world's bearing steel comes from one manufacturer and most bearings of the same size and type are identical, depending on manufacturer tolerances. He said that if the last 3 digits in the bearing number are the same (807 in this case) and the dimensions are the same, it's pretty much the same bearing. The MRC bearing might very well be a bit higher in quality but in this situation where it will see little load and no rpms at all, it makes no difference.
Also, take a look at the bottom of the VXB page for some exotic bearings in the same size -- their ABEC-7 ceramic bearings are still cheaper than the plain steel MRC. No point in putting something like that in a steering stem but maybe some benefits for wheel bearings, lower rolling resistance and teeny little reduction in unsprung weight
-
I've talked to a "bearing guy" and he assures me there is nothing special about the MRC bearing except the price . . . and that is "special" in a Special Olympics kind of way. So I will be going with the bearings instead of the adapter, since the bearing option now costs 1/10th what I thought it would, and I won't have to keep waiting.
-
Here's another question: what's the difference between the $120 bearing linked in Skull's post here and a regular 35x47x7 sealed ball bearing that costs $5-$10?
-
Here's another obscure suspect for the dreaded 1-2 shift problem -- throttle slack. My shift quality was starting to deteriorate again for no apparent reason. Lifter rod is clean and lubed, clutch fluid is fresh, system is bled, shift lever is adjusted properly, chain and sprockets are still good, cush drive replaced last fall. But after nearly dropping the bike a few times on gravelly intersections because of nonexistent low speed, low rpm throttle control I checked the slack and it was way out of spec. One of those things that accumulates slowly over time and you get used to. I adjusted the cable and along with fine throttle control I got my clean 1st-2nd upshifts back. I guess I wasn't letting off the throttle while shifting like I thought I was, just letting out some cable slack
-
Bump again. Front tire disintegrating, grisly death imminent. New forks probably rusting in box. Even the dog looks sad. Please can I has adapter?
-
I had a DL1000 with that engine. I would describe the engine as, at best, "agricultural".
Either you had a V-Strom modded with a TLR engine, or you don't realize the DL has a massively detuned version of the real thing.
-
+ a million on the clutch lifter rod -- Look for my pictorial about it from last year. It can cause exactly the symptoms you describe. Surprisingly, so can having the gearshift lever adjusted poorly. After I fixed my shifting problem I started wearing uber-armoured boots that are 3/4" thicker in the toe than my street boots. I adjusted the shifter accordingly and forgot about it. This spring I started the season with my old boots (because they're waterproof and warm) and my missed shift problem was back. After bleeding the clutch and checking under the sprocket cover with no results, I switched boots and problem solved -- even though I would've sworn I was jamming the shifter up as far as it would go even in the smaller boots, evidently I wasn't.
-
I haven't heard much in the way of positive feedback about the lights in the Mototeck unit. Cheap and dim as I recall. The Pimpbikes undertray is much cheaper than the Pyramid (only a hundred bucks: pimpbikes website), and I think the lights are decent. Here's the same style on an F4i, the XX one is similar but has additional signal lights:
-
There probably isn't a huge difference between ZX-14 and newer Busa setups. The old Busa doesn't have radial brakes, which you may or may not care about. I went with the ZX because:
1. There's a shop in Canada that parts out brand new zero mileage ZXs, so I could get guaranteed good parts without getting assraped with international shipping
2. While good ZX-14 calipers are still relatively rare and expensive, many others will fit with the use of a simple spacer (or even a stack of washers for the ghetto-inclined). The same may be true for newer Busa brakes, I haven't looked into it. I went with CBR1000RR hardware because they're a lot more common; I got the calipers, master cylinder, and brake lines (which I'm assuming will be too short, but oh well) for just over half the price of a decent set of oem ZX-14 calipers. The money saved will go toward upgraded lines for now, and maybe a down payment on some Brembos or equivalent bling later.
3. We have someone on the forum who's done the swap and can machine the necessary adapter . . . though I may end up reading Dave Gingery's Build Your Own Metalworking Shop From Scrap, building a milling machine, learn how to use it by trial and error, and complete the project on my own before he has time to do it :icon_nana:
4. Despite it's Ferrari-Testarossa-wannabe side panels, the ZX-14 has never managed to acquire the gay squidly stigma of the Busa.
-
It's a month later, so here's your regularly scheduled nagging
Front tire's getting awfully cupped, it would be cruel and unusual punishment to make me install a new one on that antique rightside-up-forked non-radial-braked secondary-master-cylinder-shenanigan Honda front end when all my shiny brand new parts are gathering dust
-
The plug is on the top of the tranny at the rear of the engine.
-
Sounds good, I'll resume bugging you around the end of the month
-
Le Bump . . . how's it going Stan? I am eager to send you actual cash money or its electronic equivalent in exchange for a small but critical chunk of shiny metal
-
You could try Lab-Metal . . . JB Weld has its evangelists and its detractors, but I've never heard anyone hate on Lab-Metal.
-
Using the Kawa top triples means using Kawa handlebars, not a big deal I guess, and it's good to hear the Honda ignition can be made to fit.
I thought the ZX-14 bars wouldn't work -- they mount right to the triples so you can't adjust the angle to get clearance. Aftermarket clipons clamp onto the fork tubes and pretty much everything is available in the ZX-14's size (50mm) -- but if you like the height of the XX's stock bars (or want more rise) you'll find that riser clipons aren't cheap.
On a related note, has anyone used a ZX-14 clutch master? I've heard it's a quality unit, and it would be nice to have matching reservoirs on each side.
-
Hippie bullshit with zero basis in science. "Detox" and "toxins" in this context are reliable indicators that a product or service is of no value except to those using it to part fools from their money.
Customers who buy this item may also be interested in EFT, magnetic bracelets, and homeopathy.
-
The parts are stock, from an '08. I don't have the outside race . . . I'm guessing it's still in the frame of the bike my forks came from? Hmmm, I just looked at a few random front ends on ebay and none of them come with the outer races, I guess this is the norm. Which is nice to know, but not too helpful right now
Ok, so would an aftermarket tapered bearing kit have the parts you need? Because if that were the case I could paypal you the cost of the kit, you could order it and have your way with it, then forward it to me when you're done. Given a choice, I'd rather buy a plug-n-play ZXXX conversion kit set up for the tapered bearings anyway.
-
Finally got my parts . . . took a bit longer than it should have thanks to my rural mailbox having an unscheduled encounter with a baseball bat. Yes, that shit actually happens. Anyway, here's a pic with the only numbers I could find. I freely admit that my knowledge of bearings is somewhere between jack and shit, so if this isn't what you need let me know. Preferably using a picture, with the relevant parts circled in red
I have a digital caliper and an outside micrometer if that helps. If you can get me pointed at the right gizmo, I can take physical measurements of it.
Nice looking adjustable bars
in The Garage
Posted
They won't be much higher than the stock XX bars -- the stockers have a pretty good rise built in. That's why I got the Danmotos to go with the ZX front end . . . most 50mm forks are on supersports and most 50mm clipons are low and raked downward. Look for something with enough rise to match the stock bars and except for Danmoto, Woodcraft is about the cheapest . . . and that's not very cheap.