Desert Goat Herder
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Posts posted by Desert Goat Herder
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You're welcome. Anything to keep you out of trouble. lol
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I personally believe that it gives more performance due to the fact that valve over lap between the exhaust going out and the intake coming in that without the pairs it increases the pull on the intake charge instead of pulling fresh air into the exhaust. It also makes plug changes much easier.
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Plus remember, the standard for measuring the oil level is with the springs removed.
Oil viscosity actually goes down as it ages. So you get a softer suspension as it ages.
Fork rebuild is really not that difficult.
I did the Penske cartridge and spring replacement group buy a few years back. What a difference.
I also did a spring upgrade and race tech gold emulator for the SV. I did it all myself. Really not bad.
Multi weight oil get thinner as it ages due to the break down of the polymers used to thicken the oil as it heats but straight weight oil actually gets thicker as the lighter molecules evap. Fork oil is a straight weight but also doesn't get hot enough for the lighter molecules to evap. Contamination will thicken the oil some.
I run the oil level a little higher than the book says for the injected model in my 98 with 7.5 WT Amsoil full syn fork oil. I found out that the amsoil is the only oil that didn't need to be changed every 10K miles in a 03 Yammy FZ-1 which had to have had the worst problem with bushing wear and oil break down.
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Yeah, the ST tires are usually more difficult regardless of brand. I somehow got the idea you were talking about Bridgestones in general. Probably a reading comprehension failure on my part but I'm too lazy to review.
No, I should've been more informative as to what I was talking about. I've never used sports tires as I'm too much of a cheap ass to buy a tire that only last a few thousand miles. I grew up in a home where I was only allowed 1 glass of milk at supper so to get around that I would fill the glass half way with water so I could have 2 glasses of milk. As such I've been a cheap ass my whole life. My wife and I had a big fight because she wanted me to get a new mattress due to mine being over 20 years old and kept saying I don't need a new mattress and of course she kept saying yes you do. Poor sales man didn't know what to do. I felt so bad for him I finally gave in and got the new mattress. lol
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Don't know about sports tires as I rode way too many miles to be changing tires every couple of months like I would've needed to with 016's. My experience has been with sport touring tires.
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When you have a pro machine they aren't a problem but when your doing it yourself with levers IMO they're a PITA!!!
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Here's a picture of the stand I made. I have 2 16" tire irons and use rim protectors in between the rim and iron. I use clamps on at least 3 places opposite the area I'm doing the final levering in.
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Never had to balance a PR2 in the 5 sets I've mounted and have seen 155 mph. I made my own mounting stand out of an old 14" car rim, some 4" square steel tubing and a piece of plywood. Made an extension for the bead breaker to handle the 180 section tire and squizzy clamps to get the tire down into the middle of the rim. I can take pics if you want of everything? Yamaha makes a great tire mounting lube that you spray on the makes getting the first bead on the rim just a hook and push. No tire irons needed.
By the way I've had Chaparral mount and balance my tires in the past and have had the front tire bouncing off the road at around 120. That was the last time I had them do any mounting.
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I've been mounting my own tires for the last 10 years and stopped using Stones about 8 years ago. Unless you get them very warm, as in letting them sit in the sun on a very hot day they're almost impossible to mount. I've been using Mich. PRs and found I can mount them even when they're cool. I figure if I mount them I can afford to pay the extra for the tire off setting the extra cost of the tire and get more mileage out of them to boot. I was also going thru around 2 sets of tires a year.
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Need some feedback on pricing and checking for interest....possibly/most likely for sale:
'82 CBX - 40K mi. - Blue on White - all OEM with exception for suspension - replaced rear shock with Progressive 420 and Progressive fork springs. Original suspension parts included. Only farkles are added DualStar grip heaters and aftermarket windscreen (tinted, slightly taller than stock, with vents) . Previous owner (I'm 2nd) JetHot clear coated OEM pipes to preserve them. Bike is in good condition and regularly ridden. Projected price $4800.
'82 CB900F - 102K miles - in F2 badged configuration with Hondaline fairing. Replacement heavy built 1123cc engine at 81K miles. DynoJet tweaked carbs. V&H 4-1 pipe. Custom starter clutch. Custom oversize battery config. Optional Hondaline gauges (Altimeter and OA Temp.). Progressive Suspension shocks and springs. Corbin G&L seat. CB1100F swingarm and wheels conversion. Super high quality show level custom paint with OEM repro decals (Blue on Black). DualStar grip heaters. Original engine (cases never split at 81K) may be included. Projected price $3800.
'05 Rebel 250 - less than 700 miles. Basically a new motorcycle with added small windscreen. All OEM. Projected price $2500.
Anyone interested? Are these realistic prices?
A CBX with stock pipes is worth more than that. The stock pipes is what makes it more valuable.
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The outer case could just be replaced. the inner case could be welded and then machined correctly but the cases would have to be split and striped.
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Did he use a charger/tender not made for LiOn batterys? Not sure if it's hype to get people to buy new chargers but have been told not to use lead acid type chargers on LiOn batterys.
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Hey Hoople, remember, candy is dandy but liquor is quicker!
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plastic welder (looks like a footed soldering iron). Prepare the breaks like you would a normal weld and bevel the edges to give more surface area. Weld some plastic into it. Sand until the spot is just below level. Get some FLEXIBLE hobby ca glue for model airplanes and some accelerant. fill liberally with the FLEXIBLE glue and then shoot with the accelerant. Sand like hell (glue is very hard to sand), then wipe off and do it again. Eventually you will build a layer of flex glue and it will be without air holes or imperfections. The more you work it the better it will be. My first motorcycle saw the plastic welder guy a few times. Eventually he showed me how he did the repairs and told me to learn to ride...
Did you? lol
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How much for the left lower cowl? I live at 92356.
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That's the VFR that I like. Not that Vtec crap!
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Buddy's zx7r has electrical issues. Since this bike is 50 miles away from me and he is unsure of his findings.
Need to test both reg and rec to see if both or one is bad. what should be connected and what should meter show or not show.
Any help would be great
The top of the page tells how to test if it's the regulator which I'm pretty sure it is.
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The regulator is controlling how much power to put to the armature (rotor coil) and it sounds like it's putting full power to it no matter what the battery voltage is. is there a way to unplug the generator? This is just like the charging system in a car.
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How do you inbed a Video in a post?
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I've always gone with the steel stems on anything. I also seal them in with RTV so they never leak.
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I used to check tire pressure once a week on Sunday but I used to ride to work on Mon. thru Fri. Now it's just before I'm going to go for a ride longer than 10 miles.
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Well just let you guys know the stem from the rear wheel had to be cut. I wouldn't break like the one on the front wheel did and believe me I tried. Pulled it over and pushed it down hard but it wouldn't let go. Like I said I used an X-acto knife to cut it off and it actually looked good with no cracking. Don't know why the front stem rotted where the rear didn't.
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Dang, dude - check your tool kit strap! It may be too late!
I'm a little crazy about stuff like that, I do rubber valve stems every other tire change. I have the 90* aluminum ones, but haven't had them on long enough to change the rubber gaskets yet.
My tool strap is long gone and the replacement also.
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I've bought some ariete 90' ones for mine, just waiting for next tyre change, they make it a lot easier to get pump onto
That is what I was going to do was change the tires and change the stems at the same time. Well I'm quite pleased with the new front tire. I didn't realize just how bad the old front tire was on traction and thought it was just me. I took a picture of the rear tire last time I rode to the VA and this time I rode to the VA and it's very noticeable how much less chicken strips are left. Going to change out the rear today or tomorrow even though it's holding air just fine the tire is at the wear bars.
Anyone have need/desire for older iPhones?
in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
Posted
Heard there is a big market for old cell phones in Syria and Iraq. lol