TuffguyF4i
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Posts posted by TuffguyF4i
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I have found that squeezing the lowest radiator hose helps push air out and burp the system. Do it gently because it usually pushes some out the top of thr radiator...of course the cap should be off and engine cool.
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I have all 3 of these. They are a great set.
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gday brianmacza the wax starter choke thing (sorry cant think of the correct term for it)might not be working,left hand rear of the motor with 2 small hoses running to it
That is were I would start as well. That is your auto choke.
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Very nice bike.
Not in the market this year.
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That's the right way to do it. Does the rear brake foot lever feel squishy at all?
You could always remove the suspect line and blow it out with brake cleaner.
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You're wasting money on high temp brake fliud.
Did you vacuum bleed the system yet.
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Throw a vacuum bleeder on it and pull the old fluid out, being careful to have a friend fill the master cylinder as you are doing it.
A cheap vacuum bleeder is essential For every shop.
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It's not about the output. It's about how much goes to the road and not the sky.
Pick up a set of cheap projectors for $60
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Been eating perfect in anticipation for not eating perfect for the superbowl.
Doing 4 weeks of eating clean with 1 cheat day per week.
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I doubt a spray on dry lube is gone in 100 miles.
If the oring are keeping in grease, they already have lube.
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O rings don't need lube. They keep lube in. They need to be clean so dirt does not grind them away.
I clean my chains with wd40 and then use a dry lube. I sold my F4i with 28k miles on it. The chain almost never needed adjusting and it had tons of life left.
I think cleaning the chain has much more to do with long life then what specific type of oil you use.
Which brings me to my next point...if you have to clean the chain every day on a long trip anyway, why does anyone need an oiler? I really don't understand the need unless you just skip cleaning.
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Couple of thoughts. I'm no fitness master. I have been lifting since I was 18..consistently. Like you..I've had ups and downs but I have never gained fat weight to any extent in my life. I have always kept my bf% reasonable with no swings up or down.
If you always meet your goals, your goals aren't high enough. My goals are things like this. Bench 315lbs, weigh no more than 205 and deadlift 400lbs. Suffice like that which can translate into a long term or short term goal depending on your time available to work out. (Btw..I've met the weight goal, bench press goal and I think I will reach the dead lift goal in 2 wks)
The main factor in my progress is my work schedule, just like you. I have not overcome this. If I'm working a 12 hr day, I'm not going to the gym..if I did, I'd not see my family at all that day. Not an option.
I'm a lean manufacturing manager. One of the most critical things I teach is making goals visible. I have a calendar at home that I use to track how many days I go to the gym. If I go on average 4 times per week, I will meet my fitness goals. If I go 3 times per week, I'm in mostly a sustain mode. I found that I would convince myself I had gone more times then I had. This is a way of keeping me honest.
Have you ever been to a company that was highly successful and hid their company goals on a notepad? You need to display them and track them visually to keep yourself accountable.
You may need to come to terms that you can't reach high fitness goals with an extended work schedule. It would be almost impossible for anyone to grow mass when working 14 hrs a day for an extended period. 8 hrs of sleep is very important.
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I think it would be quite minimal and only around that faucet. It all depends on how quickly 98 degrees is reached.
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One type of system. Scan down for diagram.
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/grundfoscomfortpumps.html
Another type. Pretty cool. The pump seems to push through the valve at the sink till temperature is reached at the valve under the sink...then it shuts.
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Yes. Look at the relay in the bike now and buy the same type.
No need to keep the old relay and add a big resistor for no reason.
Personally, I like the super quick flashing. More blinks = more attention.
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The led relay is the way to go.
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From the pumps I saw, you don't need an exclusive return line. Pick your farthest away faucet, install a valve that uses the cold water line as a return, and install pump on hot water heater.
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The nuts are stuck to the stud and the stud is removed from head?
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I sheared a head stud when doing a rebuild on a 250R. What a frigged nightmare to get out. Never over torque!!!
Thank God for a 70 yr old friend of the family who is a machinist. He machined a long steel guide for the drill press. Worked like a charm.
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Combination of my daughters birth and summer fun did not sell.
Willing to unload it for much less than 6k.
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When it's really cold. Ok you get my Jack photo again just as a reminderSince when is 30 thick oil?
Zero lives down South man!
And your jack is full of water! That's what's freezing. Still my favorite wiskey.
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Since when is 30 thick oil?
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I went through all this research and settled on a 250 electric water heater.
I think there is likely 3x the savings in insulating your house better and going to LEDs for all recessed lighting.
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Those metal caps are the venting system. I have never had issue with one. Give it a good blast with some carb and choke cleaner.
Turn the fuel off and see if it still happens. Maybe go so far as to disconnect the fuel line to the carb and drain the carb as well. Good time to clean it too.
Many older carbs have the floats stick and drain the contents....but sounds like you may have eliminated that as an issue.
For the cooler months and hard starts...have you dropped the clip in the main pilot needle to richen it up a bit?
'99 XX...how much coolant?
in The Garage
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Mountains into molehills. It doesn't matter.