TuffguyF4i
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Posts posted by TuffguyF4i
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How long do you leave the bike at one time? Would it make more sense to put in stabilizer and leave the tank full?
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A little rocking is normal.
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If you have a semi flat spot these are very bright.
http://www.radiantz.com/en/products#!/Z-Flex-Array/p/39306175/category=12427385
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I'd use a little silicone On just the contact surface.
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Those are nice. I usually take the cheapo connectors and solder the wire to them. Crimp. Then slide adhesive shrink over the connector. Makes for a nice strain relief and less chance of corrosion.
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My LED bar is about 144W and very bright. It is half flood amd half spot. I'm impressed so far but I only ride alone.
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If your connection was so poor that dielectric grease prevented connectivity..the connection needs to be fixed.
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It is not that a better connection is needed it is a clean connection that is needed.
Clean it up really well with steel wool and pack the connector front to back with dielectric grease. This has worked great for me with my bikes.
My F4i RR connector was in a bad place above the chain. I cleaned it up. Packed it with di grease and wrapped it in roll of vinyl I stole from an old bike seat. Then zip tied it in place so any moisture would run out and not stay inside. Worked great.
I tried to mimic the clear vinyl covers that come stock on many of the connector harnesses.
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Check out amazon. I just bought a monster 144W light bar for $89 delivered.
I can't speak to the longevity yet, but the quality is pretty good and absolutely insanely bright.
I mounted it to the front rack on the atv.
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Hmmm that is a bit tricky to do high low beam with prefab LEDS...
What about one of these where you can control each beam type independantly?
You could leave the directional setting aimed lower and turn the floods on for highs?
Other options.
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For the KTM...have you thought about buying a nice LED driving light with a good lens and simply inserting it into the headlight housing? I'm thinking about doing this for my ATV.
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You will not find OEM LED headlights without sofisticated projectors and lenses. The two must go together.
From a price and performance perspective, an HID projector retrofit cannot be beat.
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If any gasket material is left stuck to the engine case, use a file or razor blade and make sure it is all gone and only perfectly flat surface remains.
Gaskets are only as good as surfaces are flat.
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A very savvy tech once told me that the best connection you can make for a voltmeter is directly off the battery (+) with an inline switch (to - ground); that'll give you the most accurate readings whether the system is off or under load (running). Making a connection via any other existing circuit will exceed the intended parameters of that circuit, introducing resistance and subsequently impacting the accuracy of the voltmeter reading to some degree.
Powering a voltmeter is almost no draw on the circuit.
I have had very good results tapping into this very circuit because it was easy...it may not have been perfectly accurate, but it was very consistent.
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Interesting. My 2008 suzuki rmz has it on the left.
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Install with a couple weatherproof connectors on black panels next to tank
For a couple bucks more, I just got this switch with a rubber boot as well. Very high quality and has an ip67 rating for water resistance.
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It is so easy to wire up another accessory switch for $15.
You'll likely have to undo that mod when you sell the bike.
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Check your battery By swapping it with another.
Check your RR by measuring voltage across the terminals while running. Report back.
.....and?
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HIDs pull a great deal of juice to fire up and then quite a bit less than halogens once they are fired up.
Did you replace the battery yet? do that and if it doesn't work keep asking questions.
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Exactly what I was thinking.
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Why does the right wear out before the left?
I just rotate front to back and have never noticed any difference.
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I never had any issues with the wheel chock. You should always strap it down as well.
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See, these are the little challenges you're going to run across in life. You can roll over them (this one should have taken maybe 5 minutes total to do a bit of math and then drain/top off the system with the appropriate fluid) or you can obsess about how stupid the design is and bitch about it on the internet. I envy you if you have the space in your life to think about this "problem" for any longer than it takes to solve it.
A lot of time passes between weekends. You think I really have that much time to wrench after I get home from work?
Hell, I'm still waiting for my replacement radiator cap.
Get a wife and kids...that prevents me froM taking time to harbor on completely rediculous scenarios such as this one.
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Check your battery By swapping it with another.
Check your RR by measuring voltage across the terminals while running. Report back.
Electrical failure
in The Garage
Posted
What is the failure? Dead battery? clicking of the starter with no turning over or also other issues?