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TuffguyF4i

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Posts posted by TuffguyF4i

  1. Just keep in mind that 100,000 mile rating is for cars that likely have an average rpm of <3k. What is a bikes average rpm? 4-6k?

    I would expect at least double the wear.

    You should not expect double the wear...

    average rpm on my motorcycle is probably somewhere in between 2 - 4K rpm's. 2K in town... 4 K on the highway. My car is about the same. I changed the first set of IR's out in the car at 100K. They were visibly eroded, but the car still ran great. New plugs... and yes it ran smoother, but no change in fuel mileage etc.

    Now for the bike.... there should be NO doubt that a good IR plug like the one listed above, should last you at least 50K miles. However, I... just me, like to change some things out, maintenance wise, a little early, just to keep them in premo running condition. So I change them at 25K ish.

    The beauty of the IR plugs is their resistance to fouling coupled with their long service life. They are kind of like a self cleaning spark plug, if you will, and this helps to keep things running smoothly, even if you get a bad tank of gas from somewhere.

    You just said the same thing as me yet somehow disagreed with me and chamge your plugs at 25k instead of my suggestion of approx 50k. I dont care...just ....Interesting. lol

  2. I have found liquid electrical tape to be complete garbage. Even with proper prep, it doesn't really stick.

    That entire area of the bike gets hammered with water during rain riding. When I did my loom fix, I packed the connector with DI grease. Cleaned any excess, and taped it up. I also tucked it away so that water would not drain into the connector.

  3. I have some very large Anderson sliding doors that have rot on the bottom of them. This home does not have gutters and that combined with large roof makes for lots of water hitting the deck and splashing back on them.

    Replacement without labor is $1800 each and I have 3 that need work.

    The entire bottom board on the stationary side would need to be replaced with the door removed.

  4. Google "carpenter bee trap" and you should find a link on how to build a cheap trap for them. Basically it's a miniature birdhouse with a coke bottle attached to the bottom. They get in the hole, then realize there is nothing to bore into, so the easy way out is into the coke bottle. They can't fly back out because of the taper and can't climb the sides, nice and clean. Bottle fills up, unscrew it, dump it, screw it back on. Easy peezy lemon squeezy.

    I made of old hardwood flooring. I catch tons of carpenter bees.

  5. Get something with a proven name brand engine and a name brand mower. If some silly parts go bad, you need really good parts service. You're not going to get that from everyone.

    I also have a Deere mower with the Vtwin Kawi engine...a LX289. Great mower...but used it was $2700 with 250 hrs. I need it with my property.

    Not sure I really like JD equipment...but that is another story.

  6. If you plan on doing heated grips...get some large shrink tubing and put that on the bar handles before the grip goes on. This insulates the heater from the bar and you get much more heat on your hands instead of heating the hollow metal bar core.

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