TuffguyF4i
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Posts posted by TuffguyF4i
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I just use my brake when slowing down to trigger the light..it has become habit.
On the xx, I installed an LED strobe that flashes a few times each time I touch the brake and then it goes solid.
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I cant seem to upload pics right from my phone. Just says error.
The thread length on the side that goes into the bike is 1 3/8". Measured from the start of the bolt to the coupler..in your case.
The thread exposed that enters the beettle bag..that gets the acorn nut is 3/4..from coupler to end.
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5 hours ago, Beezer62 said:
Tuffguy,
I know the mounting bolts are metric M8 with 1.25 thread, can you measure the exact length of each?
Also what measurement do you have for the lower bracket, center to center?
I bought some redirod, couplers and nylock nuts and now making up the lower brackets.
Thanks
The entire bracket is about 3"..the center to center is 2.75".
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Yup..mine is a 99..about 35k miles..all black. It has almost every mod. Corbin, risers, hid, my own custom led turn signals, Yoshi slip ons..ect.
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Nice water jet work.
I'd suggest, instead of rocker switches, use a marine grade toggle with a boot. I have used this combo on my atv. Very nice to have a switch that will last if it gets wet and dirt is kept out of with the boot.
Das boot
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I have the bags and hardware unmounted. PM me if you'd like detailed pics and measurements. Thread type may not matter since you can freely fab them any way you'd like.
I'm likely going to sell the bird with the bags in the spring. I just don't ride enough.
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5 days off of r&r at the lakehouse. Back at it and still feel like I want to die. Good volume mixup to my normal low volume workouts.
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Back on 1 month cycle for first time in a long time.
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Mixing it up with this routine. Want to die.
http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/8-by-8-workout-shock-your-muscles-into-growth.html
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Thanks for the tip!
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I have a Pelican 1500 that is a perfect size for taking many pistols and ammo to the range. Or a variety of cameras. I have had it for about 5 years with little to no use.
Looks just like this.
Foam inside is the type that has those little rectangles you can tear out to get a custom shape. It's clean too. This case is serious...it feels unbreakable.
I'd like to trade for a quality rifle case. Does not have to be Pelican..but should be equivalent quality.
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I always load carbs before a workout. Oatmeal..or 2 bananas...or a big PB sandwich.
I can't do morning lifts. Just doesn't work for me.
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I have this detector. I find it fantastic.
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Aside from Sunday..been sticking to a very healthy diet the past 2 weeks. I noticed I have chin fat and that isn't something I'm going to live with.
The diet is zero sugar and no junk food. Simple and sustainable.
Up to 208 with shorts, sneakers and a hoodie. Need to get to 215 by summer.
Sunday I was muscling 200+ maple tree rounds into the log splitter. Wow...back was on fire.
Ate a huge dinner of chicken and rice last night. Starving in 90mins. Then ate 2 bananas and a peanut butter sandwich before the gym. Metabolism is kicking!
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Called Anderson today. They support 10 years on frame and 20 on the glass. They will do nothing for me even if it was a mfg defect.Check with your Andersen rep, the doors may have a lifetime warranty. Andersen is a high-level player and they may step up and repair or replace.
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I had the same thought so I checked and my '01 won't crank with the switch off.Kill switch on? I can't remember if it would even crank in that case, but worth checking.
If it has enough to crank it has enough for the pump to run.What voltage does the battery read?
I have had a battery crank and not start. But you are right...it should have enough juice to fire the pump.
Snap your engine cut off switch (Right switchgear) on and off several times. Its not unusual for these connections to show some corrosion, often with inactivity or poor conditions for storage.
If that doesn't work, pull the two bolts from the rear of the tank and snap the dash panal studs out of the rear of the tank. Lift the rear of the tank and support it on a block of wood, a screwdriver, eskimo, something. Remove the electrical lead to the fuel pump. Put your meter across the terminals to measure DC voltage and turn the key on. If you get voltage, the fuel pump is the problem. If not, its electrical and you can work back.
Its probably Obama's fault.
What gives the relay that goes to the fuel pump it's signal? Isn't it the ECU?
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Been into some huge rennovations...but will check with Anderson ti make sure I can't get something to help with replacement. They aren't super old..1989 install date.
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What voltage does the battery read?
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Lifting now. Bought a squat rack and weights for the home gym. Getting the wife into a weights program. She is squatting 155 and DL about the same.
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The entire point of the fix is to delete the connector.
Is he obsessed with returning it to OEM?
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I get it...but man..lot of work isn't it?
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Why would he not trace the wires back a foot and solder extensions if needed?
Sure a pain...but replacing the harness connector requires the proper crimping tools for that specific pin. That sucks and it is another corroded connector waiting to happen. That seems like faulty logic to me.
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Good to know. I have the same issue with my compressor.
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Wow. Beautiful. I didn't know they were that expensive.
What oil is best and what does everyone use?
in The Garage
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I buy the same weight synthetic that is on sale. I used to be more die hard brand loyal..but they are all pretty darn good these days.
I put cheaper grade full syn oils in my smaller vehicles because they are..wait for it...cheaper to replace and I can do the work myself easily.
Napa has its own brand of oil that is made by Valvoline. It goes on sale for $2.67 per quart and is syn. I have been buying that on sale frequently for my dirt bike, atv, log splitter, snowblower, and lawnmower.