TuffguyF4i

Most companies that sell connectors (molex, amp), send out free samples. You can almost always get a new connector for free. Reusing pins isn't the best idea, but i've done worse. I'd silicon over the entire thing afterwards, just to make sure nothing gets in there.

Most of the hard epoxies, you can burn off with an exacto knife and heat gun. Just make sure you don't get the PCB over 150-180C. Solder will start to flow and components will get fried.

I've got the same seat. Its comfy, but it doesn't fit the bike right. It rocks back and fourth and chafes the plastic. I shimmed it with some nylon tubing and super glue. It seemed to fix most of the problem. The leather also seems to have alot of texture in it that looks like cracks, but isn't. It is also very wide, and pushes out on your legs. If you like to have your legs tucked into the tank, this is not the seat for you. Not the best corbin i have ever had, that is for sure.

Good deal. My xx will need a new chain this winter.. i'll have to pick this up.

I've got them on my F4i. I put them on right before my trip up and down and around the blue ridge parkway. They got a real workout. I have the AV55 and 56 setup. I ran about 2k miles. Pros: Seem to warm up quick - my bridgestones where the same way Rode them at least 100 miles in cold wet. They did well. Zero chicken strips and i really get off the bike - never felt like a lowslide was coming Good feedback. When i felt the limit was coming then started to slightly skip or scrub. I knew to decrease the lean some. Could have been road conditions too...you never know. Sweet profile. They beg to turn in. Cons: I don't think they are going to last that long. $$$ my set was about 250+ mounting. Not cheap not expensive. Middle of the road. I'd buy them again.

Sounds fixable to me. Why are you so quick to throw in the towel?

I use the Purlator filter also. Same one goes on the VFR, F4i and XX.

Yeah,,thats expensive. It would be cheaper for me to just buy two totally seperate sensors and gauges.

I put a tee in the connection that the oil pressure sending unit connects to in the block. Ran a machinacal guage for a while. It is 1/8 npt. On your guage, is it resistance based to ground? If so does it have dual contacts? One for temp and one for pressure? I would like to know the oil temp, as well as the pressure. If it is dual contacts, you might be able to use the pressure for the normal contact to the ecu, but what fun would that be. A guage for both contacts would be nice, and I think there is one with both. 12 volt in and reads what the resistance to ground is, varied . I want one! the connection is to the right of the thermostat housing. No it is not resistance based. It is a splatter film type that reads much like a stress sensor. It has an ASIC chip inside it that provides a linear ouput. Example: 0-10V output Calibrated to 0-500 PSI At 0PSI the output would be 0V At 250 PSI the output would be 5V At 500 PSI the output would be 10V You get the idea, linear. It has a 4 pin system. Ground, Vin, Vout, Vout2. Any chance you have a pic of where you installed it? What do you think about a display? Anything that is dual output? Thanks!!!!

I work for a sensor company and one of our new dual output products, reads pressure and temperature. Heres my question. Where would be the best place on the engine to get a pressure reading? The smallest thread diameter i can buy is 1/8NPT. Should i put a T fitting on an oil line and simply 'tap' off of that? Perhaps the easiest thing to do is to simply drill and tap the oil pan. But would that yeild an accurate reading? I suppose the only thing i am really interested in is whether there is a drop in pressure. What could i use to display the pressure and temperature? The sensor is dual output, so i need a display that has two inputs so i can toggle back and fourth. Do they make small automotive displays like this? I can choose a variety of output voltages or 4-20mA. Thanks for any and all thoughts.

I heated the entire housing in the oven at about 300 for 10-15 mins. Its pretty easy to get off after that. The glue they use becomes pretty soft at that temperature. Not sure if it is legal,,,honestly, i dont' really care. I just want to be seen when i'm stopping,,,especially when my wife is on the back. Hyperlights are a great idea..however, they are not bike specific. You could wire them up to anything if you are willing to solder two wires.

It all started when i went to this local business http://www.strobe.com/component/option,com...ufacturer_id,0/ to take a look at some of the equipment in use. I got chatting to the president who also was a rider. We got talking about safety lighting and such, and he decided to give me a sample or two of his products. Very nice guy and very good SUPER BRIGHT product that has 8 different strobing effects. I removed the bottom bulb and wired the strobe to come on only when you hit the brakes. The same as the LED light bar below my plate. I drilled sholes through the back of the housing and wired them in with the stock harness. I can modify the effects of the strobe by touching two of the live wires together under the seat...they have sealed connectors on them. I'm very pleased with the effect,,,and i'm picky about lighting. Also a video. http://s165.photobucket.com/albums/u45/Tuf...nt=DSCF0018.flv

2nd dibs on the backrest,,, pm please if it hasn't sold.

I use the full syn Rotella 5W-40. I use about 2qts of the Rotella, and usually mix it with a 20W-50, full syn to help meet the mfg requirements of a 10W-40. I figure after about 500 miles that 42-45 mix, is ground down to a 35 or so anyway.

Zymol to get a good finish.... Meguars quick detailer to keep it clean.

Thats alot for the input guys...i appreciate it!!! This is my first time into this type of equipment, so i'm learning it as we go. This is what i tried last night to determine if the problem is at the thermostat or elsewhere. I took the faceplate off of the thermostat to reveal all of those pin outs, or contact. I used a wire and jumped the RC to the Y (cooling) and also jumped the RC to the fan relay. I got exactly the same condition,,,, the fan cut out when the compressor kicked in. Does this mean that the problem is not the thermostat?

Any help would be great.... I'm a new home owner, and don't know much about this stuff. I have a townhome that has a blower in the attic (Lenox) and an air conditioner (heat pump) out side. It is all controlled by one of those digital units on the wall (RiteTemp). The blower in the attic does work, and so does the air conditioning unit. I know this because the blower will operate if you manually throw the switch on the wall for the override "on" (however the indicator light does not come on like it used to). The air conditioner also is pumping cold fluid, tested by grabbing the cold pipes that run to my attic. http://www.ritetemp-thermostats.com/8022.html Here is the problem. As soon as you throw the switch to run the air conditioner, the blower cuts out, and does not come back on. Just to trouble shoot the problem further, i turned the heat on and then blower tripped out on this setting also. Again,,, when you manually switch to the fan on position, it does activate the fan w/o the compressor on, but the fan on indicator does not come on. Think i have a bad controller? Does this sound like a relay or capacitor? If anyone is local that can give me a hand,,, there is a free Rotella oil change in it for you!!! Thanks guys!!

Thanks for the input guys. I'll check out pricing and see what i can find. Dave

On my long trips this summer, i noticed that I would very much like better wind protection. What does everyone recommend and where to buy it? Thanks!

check out industrial supply places. My two favorite are MSC and McMasterCarr

Is this worth it? What does a drain pan cost 100 bucks? I didn't think it was a good idea to weld casting material. Most welders woun't even touch the stuff.

Yes, take it to the professionals. Most of the time they use a really tough epoxy to seal everything off. They do this stuff all the time and cheaply too.

This only happens to me when my battery desperately needs a charge.

Again...where can you buy the euro switches?????????????????????????????????????

I got the same kit. He sent me some cheap ass connectors that don't snap into anything. For my F4i (same AMP brand headlight connector), i cut the tabs off and soldered them into the connector. I also wired in a switch. Are you just supposed to shove those copper contacts from the balast into the stock connector? Or are you supposed to trace your headlight wiring back, and then use the small 3 slot/prong connector that came with the kit?