TuffguyF4i
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Posts posted by TuffguyF4i
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Interesting. I would hope that this much H2O would not have made its way into the tank/system.
The engine is cranking. I don't believe it is a lack of compression issue.
When I took out every plug to make sure i had spark, i also look inside the top of the head. The tops of the valves looked pretty wet. It could have been from the starter fluid i used, or from cranking it over so many times.
I'll pump out the old gas and drain the system. Taking a look at the injectors can't hurt while i'm in there.
I have the manual now on my PC so i'll start troubleshooting when i get back from a 4 day weekend. If it is just a "let things dry out" issue, it should be dry by then.
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Hey guys. I am going through my shop manual for my F4i. I came across this document. I'm not a stupid guy, but i'm having a hard time decifering what the hell they are talking about.
How do you calculate the number of blinks??
Is it simply 1.3 sec = 10 blinks, and anything after that is added on?
If that is true how do you get 1 or 2 blinks?
The example cites a light on duration of 1.3 sec long equals 10 blinks, plus 2 .5 sec. blinks equals 12 blinks. Seems pretty straightforward.
Maybe i'm a block head today. I see now how the 12 is calculated.
Are we supposed to assume that if the computer is saying all blinks under 10 will be .5sec each?
Meaning 3 blinks will be 3, .5 sec blinks.
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Hey guys. I am going through my shop manual for my F4i. I came across this document. I'm not a stupid guy, but i'm having a hard time decifering what the hell they are talking about.
How do you calculate the number of blinks??
Is it simply 1.3 sec = 10 blinks, and anything after that is added on?
If that is true how do you get 1 or 2 blinks?
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Ok,, i'm a bit frustrated now. I went over the bike last night like crazy! Checked everything i could think of.
Charged the battery...reading 13.4V outside of the bike.
Pulled the airbox. Dry.
Checked the spark on each plug. Sparks,,not a huge 'firey' spark, but each plug def has it. Did not find any water around the plugs/coils.
Checked the fuel and engine cutoff relays. They were wet. Dried them, they seem to be working normally.
Checked every connection i could get my hands on. All where dry.
I opened up the throttle and blasted a bit of starting fluid in there. No effect.
Has fuel,,,i put some dry gas in it to suck up any water. Tank is about 1/4 full.
Checked the RR connection. Dry. What a bitch that was to get to.
People have said to check the kickstand sensor and bank angle sensor. But my reasoning in not checking them is that if they where disengaged the fuel pump would not spool up. So i think they're ok.
I'm also not getting any flashing indicators from the display.
Any thoughts guys? If it wasn't for my XX i'd be pulling out my hair. I spent 4 hrs in the garage last night.
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I just went home on lunch break and popped one of the plug caps off. Totally dry. That was one of my first suspicions also.
I also put some dry gas in.
I hooked the battery up to a trickle charger, and started poking around. Everything is def wet. The seals around the computer under the seat where wet, but the contacts seemed dry. I'll let it air out anyway.
I put a fan on it in the garage. Maybe i'll get lucky when i come home from work.
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I have a pretty much stock '02 F4i w/20k on it. It has never not started.
I rode about 1.8k miles last week, garaged the bike and frankly didn't want to see it for about a week after riding so much.
Sunday night i washed it very throughly. Used lots of water and blasted the bugs out of the radiator,, i'm sure the engine got very soaked. Normal hose/nozzel pressure, not pressure washer. Started the bike up, just long enough to pull it into the garage. It fired right up.
Fast forward to this morning.
Bike started cranking, then the tone of the starter changed. It went more from a grunt to a whine, but it still cranking the engine over. Def not the 'dead battery tick'. I know simply because air/fuel are coming out of the tailpipe.
I tried a 2nd gear bump-start. Didn't really work or do anything different. Course the engine might have been slightly flooded by that time.
I'm thinking that i got something wet that should not have gotten wet. I didn't blow water up into the intake, or do anything moronic.
With the extreme temp changes we have had, i'm wondering if the tank being somewhat empty caused condensation to form in the tank. The humidity is so bad that the floor in my garage actually has a small amount of water on it. The bike still had some water on it from 2 days ago during the wash.
Where would you guys start? Dry gas, fresh gas and starter fluid?
Wet plug wires? Could be that some water got into there and settled by the plugs.
I posted this on sbn but i think the group here is much more capable at wrenching.
Thanks!!!
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I used mine about 2 weeks ago. Worked great.
I over tightened the tool when i was forming the rivet ends (do not crank till the forming tool is flush with the chain link). The link binds a little...not really that big of a deal. I'm sure it will wear in.
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If you'd ever think about selling just the backrest, i'm very interested! OR if someone wants the seat and not the backrest, i'd buy it off them.
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Check air filter: while you're in there, put new plugs in.
Run some injector cleaner through it
Flush all fluids: bleed brakes, bleed hydraulic clutch, and flush coolant
Ride!
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I bought from a honda dealer that was on ebay. I got Sunstar sprockets and DID chain for $165. Pretty good deal.
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http://www.ellsworth.com/display/productde...amp;Tab=vendors
This stuff is awesome for sealing around wires that go into housings or connectors. It's great for projects, which is what i've been using it for. The color when wet and dry is the same. Solid White.
It is expired material from a manufacturer, who cannot use it simply because it has the wrong date on it. The stuff works great and is extreemly tacky. It sticks to everything like hair gel. The expiration date was 4/07.
I'd prefer to sell it by the box to get rid of it quicker.
1 box: 10 tubes
$15+ $6 shipping (weight is about 2lbs)
Anything less is $3/tube + $6 shipping
PM w/any questions!
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Opps!!
My bad guys. It starts and 3/16" and shrinks to less then that. I believe about 30% shrink,,,like most.
I will make this clear to the PM's i received on people interested.
LOL These are not for internal use or external pleasure devices. Just shrink.
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I have several large quantities of these bags of shrink. This stuff works very well and is precut into lengths of 7" and each bag has 300 pcs. The diameter is 3/16" and will easily accomodate two large gauge wires. Big enough for any two motorcycle wires.
It takes little heat to shrink the wrap, which is nice if all you have laying around is your wifes hair dryer!
Its good stuff. I'll sell each bag for $20 and only charge $6 for shipping. That is about a penny and inch!
I have about 7 bags.
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I never saw the point.
The front lines are 80%+ of your braking power and i was able to replace those in an afternoon, a very short afternoon.
Why spend 4 times the prices put int 10 times more effort only to decrease 20% of the line expansion on the bike?
Converting the front lines to SS was a drastic improvement. Very nice!
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Superglue could work. It dries pretty clear.
I would go to one of those places that repairs windshield cracks. Ask them if they could try on your headlight. If it doesn't completely melt your housing it would probally work.
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Wow,, the good rotor only has .002" run out? Thats pretty amazing.
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You got it. I'm doing the same thing to my F4i, so i'll post up a tutorial.
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Thanks for the info guys...
I was able to rape and borrow from the machine shop here a variety of sizes, and of course the 12mm worked. It came right off...the threads were very clean.
The ram-stem mount did not provide the right size and of course would not pass well through the 12mm hole and provide a good 'squash rubber' grip. What i did was shave the big rubber plug down enough so that it would fit inside the tube. I then placed the provided plastic washer that holds the nut at the bottom of the plug, and epoxied the plastic washer/nut in place. I then took a big piece of shrink wrap and put it around the entire thing. Heated it up, and shoved it down inside. After cooling that thing was snug as a bug.
Ram mount installed nicely.
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I think it looks fine.
How much you asking? I can't tell from the pics....think this would be a good sport touring shield?
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Thats it...let me know
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There is a VFR locally selling for about 1500 on craigslist. It wasn't beat up at all..had only 30k on it too.
Search hartford craiglist.
I'd even check it out for you if you where in a pinch.
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Hey guys.
I'm installing my ram-stem gps mount for my Garmin. One thing i didn't notice is that the cover for the center of the triple tree is just that,,,a cover. The ram-stem mount needs a consistent surface in order to get a good grip. My plan is to remove that cover and figure out what surface it can mount against.
So what size is that allen? Its a very large one and i'm hoping i can borrow one from here at work.
God bless fully stocked machine shops.Thanks!
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bumping myself!!!
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Theres some real crappy shields floating around on ebay. Just be careful what you get.
F4i not starting,,, i think its water related
in The Garage
Posted
I tested for spark my holding the plug just off the valve cover. Its pretty much the only thing you can touch it to, with the long coil/plugs that are on the wiring harness.
I'd say it was about 1/8th. The spark didn't impress me to be honest. Then again i've only done the test a few times in my life.
I just read the codes on the bike. It gave me 9 blinks which says the IAT (intake air temp) sensor. The problem i'm having with that code is that even if that sensor is failing, the bike should still start,,,says the manual.
Nope,,can't be it. I've been trying to start it w/o the air box or filter even attached.