nybryan

On one of the other boards I'm on has a tab button ,next to the new post tab, that allows me to find threads I started and threads i responded to. It sure makes it easy to find stuff and not miss replies to my questions. Can such a option be added here? Love the board just making a suggestion for a feature that i find very helpful in other places. Thanks

Obtained thanks

Why looser, Aren't we susposed to measure on the side stand. I'm running a penske also

I put a 44 tooth in the bike <euro gearing> and left the 17 stock up front. I got a 110 link chain. It seems the chain is a bit to long as im almost to the replace reading on the adjuster. Do the europe bikes with the smaller rear sproket use 108 link chains. I don't want to cut anything out and have it to short. I also have the ride height adjusted up and that seems to shorten what is needed as a chain bryan

ok where to buy for the best price in the US of A. Man this chain and sproket things is confusing do i buy a kit do i not does it matter what sproket i get as long as its steel

Stock rear sprockets last forever. Really. Stock front sprocket (17t) is probably due, but you could probably get by for a while without changing it. Look for Sunstar, JT or AFAM if you want aftermarket. OEM front sprockets are EXPENSIVE, but have a rubber damper on it which is supposed to help with chain noise. You won't notice it if it's not there. I can get you a Sunstar 17t for between $25-$35. Chain: DID ZVM2, 110 links. Most places you can buy the chain it will come in 120 links, and you'll have to cut it down to 110. DID ZVM2 chains have recently gone up in price. I can call tomorrow and see what kind of price I can get for you, but expect to pay between 145-155 for the chain. I will call tomorrow and get you real prices, if you're interested. I remember being told that if i put a new chain on a worn sprocket it will just wear everything out. The rear sproket shows no bad signs of wear but i am nervous about leaving it on. I assume a rear sproket is fifty bucks ish. Is there a difference between the rk and the did. I assume your are giving me the x ring version . Thanks for you help on the particulars

Ok, I have been riding for twenty- five years and i think my last chain on a bike was back in 1990. I notice a bit of a light throttle hiccup and when i inspected the chain found some tight links. I assume its the stock chain and sprokets as my bike is a 02 with 15.5 thousand miles on it. I assume the chain is at the end of its life do to time and miles. In the past i would never buy a chain without changing the sprokets so i guess thats what im going to do. Is it worth cleaning and such to try to get it all loose, I suspect not. Is my mileage about right for this bikes power and weight for the chain or is more the victam of non use. Know my question. What chain and sprokets do i want. I want steel as i don't want them to be eaten up fast. Stock gearing is fine maybe the euro gearing would work. What do i need to get where do i get it who has the best prices and value. thanks for your help

oem filter is sold k/n is available

OEM air filter for FI black bird. Twenty bucks for shipping. Opened but not used 20 bucks plus ship SOLD k/n air filter FI in box new 40 bucks plus shipping nybryan at optonline dot net bryan

just adding a few pictures

Thanks plastic head, I haven't gotten around to photos and it will still be a while. I'm over by stormville ny.

please delete

i guess they would. I will have to go make some and add them. For now just picture it as a silver bird with all the trimmings. If someone is interested i will push to get some pictures up.

silver st 02 15k miles on it Pilot road 2ct with a thousand miles on them New DID xring chain and sprockets sonic fork springs and and fresh fork oil under a thousand miles ebc hh brake pads x3 with less then a thousand miles K/N air filter less then a thousand miles on it fresh oil change as always new spark plugs corbin seat lady/gunfighter plus a back rest heli bars mra vario windshield new spark plugs mag tank protector honda oem panniers from europe hyperlight directionals Never crashed or dropped great shape. Email me a nybryan@optonline.net for more details email for pictures $5900 bucks

hank Front springs are replaced as is the fork oil i like. That is as far as im going with the front end for now Penske shock is a double clicker. I had it on my st1300 and sent it for conversion to the blackbird. I should be getting it back in a few days. How difficult is it to change out the shock on the bird. Plan of attack suggestions. Should i pull the rear wheel and go in from behind? do i need to pull the battery? the rear cowl? I'm guessing you have done this a few times and would love some advise. I haven't really looked at the proceedure yet. Also, on the double clicker what do you suggest for starting points for compression and rebound settings. Thanks

I have oem hard panniers and ordered up a penske shock. I weigh 185 < about 200 geared up> and ride 2 up on occasion. Penske recommended a 1100 pound spring. This seemed high to me but what do i know. What spring weight did you get on your penske shock and how is your bike set with luaguge and weight?

pulled out the lower o-ring and now its working right. Thanks for the advise bryan

so on my injected bike the problem is likely that i left the o ring in the airbox and have a wierd seal. I'm going back to stock

injected bike and yes surging is more accurate. When i put in the K/N airfilter on my 02 the lid of the airbox wouldn't close. It sat up about a 1/4 inch. slow tightening the screws closed it down. I later learned that there is a gasket inside the airbox that should have been removed when i added the K/N. I am wondering if the K/N airfilter is not position correctly and letting some air leak by. Could this be causing the situation im talking about?

Seems my bike developed a bit of a flat spot at 5200 rpm since I added a K/N airfilter. Bikes is stock besides the filter. I never removed the inner gasket from the air box when i added the K/N. Is this a common problem. Maybe the filter is not sealing right. Other thoughts before i go back to stock. It only happens at steady throttle, a flat spot hick-up as I'm chugging along

Thanks parts man. I managed it just had to tighten a little at a time across the top of the airbox.

It gets me in the shoulders and throat i guess upper chest. I'm 6.1 Its just a pain in the neck to clean and looks kind of goofy. If i run into your more then welcome to try it out and see how it works for you. I'm down on route 216 in hopewell junction <stormville>. just off the taconic or 84 or route 52. I can often be found having a cup of coffee in kent CT on the weekends. Next weekend I'm a bit busy. SHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH don't tell everybody about the great roads over here.

I bought mine in aug and have slowly been making some improvements. A set of sonic springs and fresh fork oil recently done made a huge difference. Plus a set of PR2CT tires and ebc brake pads. Fresh clutch and brake fluid. K/n airfilter <filter was kind of wierd to install the air box cover didn't want to close tight but just placing it on top like with the stock filter but it managed when i tightened up the screws>. set of honda bags, corbin saddle,helibars along with an MRA vario screen round out the comfort upgrades. I'm not terrible thrilled with the windshield maybe i should have bought a givi. Getting the proper preload and fiddling with the dampening screwed on the stock shock helped a bit also. I have a penske shock I'm waiting to get back from penske and hoping this will further improve the handling. If it gets much better I'm going to have a real problem in the legal department as I'm often throwing it through corners at speeds that will have me locked up I'm coming from riding an ST1300 so for me this feels like a real sport bike and I'm having a blast. The bird I'm really impressed with. Less then ten thousand miles on it when I bought it and once the fuel pressure regulator was replaced its been great. Even with all the goodies I added its still less then a second hand busa would have cost and god knows what kind of abuse it would have taken. Todays market place has lots of great bikes but not to much that would really work for ownership for me. I'm not a fan of louder exhusts on motor modification so I'm about done. Maybe a modification to the mounting brackets for the panniers for a rack so i can add a dufflie bag for two up trips if I come across a welder. Just rambling here on a rainy day

What is the recommended tire pressure for the mich pr2ct. Currently running 38 rear 36 front. Back doesn't seem as stable well over a hundred as the bridgestones but grip is much improved

I have a 02 bird i bought last year. The fluid looked good through the window but I figured I didn't know how long it had been in there. With a second set of hands it was no big deal to pump and flush out the fluid. I was surprised how much better the brakes worked. Just a suggestion for anyone that hasn't changed the fluid in a while might want to give it a shot.