Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum

Silverbird2

Members
  • Posts

    1,694
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Silverbird2

  1. I rememeber seeing on here a few options for front fork preload adjustability. Jaws, VFR, and Bandit preload adjusters fit the BB IIRC. Anyone have an opinion as to which one is better? And does anyone know the part #'s for the VFR and the Bandit preload adjusters?

  2. Yep, that was it. The two little screws on the reed valve held the plate up enough to make it leak. The plates did not have a relief drilled into it so i had to drill two per plate myself. I put some sealant on them, re-installed and so far no leaks.

    Thanks

    Eventually when I get my tank off and am able to get to the PAIR valves, I'll look at them and let the guy I buy the block off plates know about it, so he can update the design.

    I'm sorry you had to find it the hard way... :icon_frown:

    Yeah i was going to PM you and tell you about that before you ordered any more from him but have been busy at work.

    No worries

  3. Yep, that was it. The two little screws on the reed valve held the plate up enough to make it leak. The plates did not have a relief drilled into it so i had to drill two per plate myself. I put some sealant on them, re-installed and so far no leaks.

    Thanks

  4. Well since i had mine all apart i thought i might as well go ahead and replace the fuel filter, which by the way Honda is very proud of (60+ $'s at the local stealer, I think i paid somewhere around 30 something). I have somewhere around 25,000 miles on mine and didn't think it would need it but why not. When i got the old one off i blew through it just to see if i could tell the difference in the new vs the old and to my suprise there was a huge difference! The original took quite a bit of pressure to blow through and the new one was effortless. Not what i expected.

    Something to consider next time you have your tank off.

  5. IIRC, there should be little relief holes drilled on the underside of the plates to allow clearance for a screw that protrudes a bit from the reed valves. If this hole wasn't there, or was misaligned, it might account for your "bowing" and present leak.

    It's been awhile for me, so perhaps someone with more recent experience could confirm.

    Thanks i did notice the notch, i will look at it again tonight.

  6. Well I almost got it put back together last night. I put the tank on and fired it up and it was making a loud strange noise from the front of the engine. The only thing that i could contribute it to is the pair block off plates leaking. I put plenty of RVT and tightened them down. I don't know what else to do to get them to seal. They are made out of aluminum and seamed to bow a little when tightening them down but i thought it was my imagination. Could this be the problem?

    Any thoughts?

  7. I make my own.

    I used Red/Orange leds and kept the stock amber lens...sort of a reddish amber. Love them and they're super bright.

    MtWashingtontrip275.jpg

    I saw your post where you showed how to make them. I thought of going that route but i am too lazy. The tower bulb seems easy and quick if i can find one that works.

  8. I have seen several different types and manufacturers. Has anyone narrowed it down to a particular one that is better than the rest?

    I can't get the link to work but here are a couple i found that look pretty good.

    http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi

    (it's the RLX-3)

    or

    http://www.ledlight.com/s25-27-ultra-brigh...-led-light.aspx

    yeah I got something like that a tower kinda thing, put in the clear alternative lens, disconnected the running lights and wired them to the indicator's

    seems plenty bright a lot brighter than the stock's were.

    like these .

    Ebay clickey

    2 cents

    Yeah, that is what i was thinking. What made you want to unhook the running light?

  9. This actually turned out to be one of the better PAIR threads

    Good.... So.... What did you do ?

    No wait.... Don't Say !

    :icon_biggrin:

    Well,low emmision regulations for commercial on highway diesel trucks killed fuel economy to the tune of 5-15 %.Price of those trucks increased by good couple of grand too.Those engines run EGR, cat converters,needed new spec oils,dealers need special aparatus to clean exhaust filters.Bigger radiators,longer chassis to find the place of all that crap,etc.

    Lesser fuel economy means higher demand,(wonder why diesel is now more expensive then even premium when years ago was cheaper ?),that means more fuel has to be refined,delivered,pumped,etc so at the end those new rules hardly "save environment".

    :icon_twisted: Yes, But everybody "FEELS" better about it............

    ]

    Actually I still have it apart hanging by the frame waiting for Dan Kyle Racing to return my forks. It sounds like hooking it back up is the easy answer.

    Damn Eric you wake the rooster up this morning??

  10. I am in the middle of doing a few things to the bike. I have the airbox off to install the pair block off plates and noticed that the throttle bore and butterfly valves were a little dirty. I used brake cleaner (didn't have carb cleaner on hand) on a rag and some Qtips and cleaned them both. I noticed today in the services manual it says to not clean the throttle bore because it is coated in molybdenum???? Anyone else do this or am i the only dumbass?

    Anyone have any suggestions?

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use