Silverbird2
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Posts posted by Silverbird2
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That is easy enough, i will give that a try first.
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I pulled the bird out to clean her up and get her ready to sell and it wouldn't start. I have had it on a battery tender any time is wasn't being ridden. I pulled it out and started it about 6 months ago and I remember the FI light being on. This time it doesn't even turn over. Just one click that sounds like it comes from the relay. When I put my hand on the relay I could feel it click. It's like it has a blown fuse or bad ground or something. I was expecting some fuel issues from sitting for so long without starting it but this sounds like something else. Any thoughts?
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Well, I think the time has come. Those of you who know me have seen the bike. I am not sure how much to ask but I am thinking $4k. Here are the details:
- K&N
- Power Commander with custom tune
- Erion ceramic coated (black) header (4:1) with Akrapovic race can (titanium)
- Block off plates
- Puig windscreen (smoked)
- CF hugger
- Ohlins rear shock
- Ohlins internals in front forks built by Dan Kyle Racing
- Throttlemeister
- HID high and low
- 65 (+/-) miles
- Tapered head bearings
- Givi top case
- SW Motech Day Pack tank bag with Quick Lock ring
- R&G racing frame sliders
- Powder coated (black) foot pegs, passenger pegs, shifter, brake pedal
- Pazzo levers (black)
I am sure I am forgetting a few things but this was a spur of the moment decision. I had to list it before I changed my mind again. It's like selling a best friend.
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I just moved up from the Sena SMH10 to the 20s and it is a really good set up. it's louder than the 10, has a radio that is remarkably clear and increased functionality. I am please with it. The new design allows you to run speakers or earbuds. I use the in ear type as well and couldn't be happier with the set up. The 20s even has an ambient noise button for when you are stopped at a gas station and need to hear what someone is saying to you.
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And where you live might help
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Agreed. This would finally put an end to the misdirected light issue.
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Somebody finally made a projector HID available for the bird. I think this is the same guy that did one on the other site.
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It was definately the force in this case.
The new jet kit did wonders. Completely different bike.Takes that flat spot out, right?
Exactly! Pulled hard in every gear and every throttle position. Much quicker resoponse as well. Not to mention it made the bike run cooler.
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Went great! Got it in no problem. Much easier than expected. Getting the hole drilled straight was the hardest part.
I stayed up till 2am Friday night putting her all back together and rode with two buddies at 7am Saturday morning. The new jet kit did wonders. Completely different bike.
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Got the Heli Coil kit but dont have any special tools for tapping or installing the Heli Coil. Most videos I've seen they are using a tap handle and a tool for inserting the Heli Coil. Maybe it is in the kit but I had it open to see if there was a drill bit (which there wasnt). I had to get the drill bit seperately. The package contained a tap, some kind of black tool and the inserts. I guess I will learn more when i get home.
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Great advise! I've heard kerosene is the thing to use when tapping aluminium. Do you think the tapped hole will hold as good as a helicoil would?
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I installed a jet kit and float bowl in the dirtbike and stripped one of the carb body threads that hold the float bowl screw. Should I Helicoil it or tap for a larger screw?
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I like the way you did the rock border and base. How do you do that?
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reciprocating saw
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I think that Youtube video is of a guys BB on the .com site. There is also a guy on there that did the projector HID's in the stock housing. Pretty clean install.
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That must have been what I was refering to. I have them installed now. I love the feel. I did screw up when I installed them a little though. The two brass pins that the levers push in (one for the clutch and one for the front brake) have a recess for the rubber boot to seat. I pulled both pins out (the front brake on pupose because I thought I might have to and the clutch just came out when I removed the stock lever) and now I cant get the rubber boot to seat back into the recess. Not a bid deal but it still bugs me. Anyone else even know what I'm talking about?
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Yeah I dont know what they were talking about with that mounting block. It looks pretty simple in the You Tube videos I saw. Thanks KK
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I ran a search but didnt see what I was looking for. I remember reading somewhere that you had to install some special mounting block to install Pazzo's on the bird. I have a set that i got for Christmas that is ready to be installed. Anyone have experience that they can share on installing them or is it pretty straight forward?
Nothing special to do. Just take the stockers off and put the pazzos on.
Cool, thanks. I think I lost your number when i changed phones. PM it when you get a chance.
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I ran a search but didnt see what I was looking for. I remember reading somewhere that you had to install some special mounting block to install Pazzo's on the bird. I have a set that i got for Christmas that is ready to be installed. Anyone have experience that they can share on installing them or is it pretty straight forward?
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A few people asked, so I'll offer up my version. I will continue to edit this post to answer questions or address things I left out, and it will be a work in progress for a while. I won't get it done in one sitting, so please be patient. I did not engineer this hodgepodge, that was done by others who have gone before me - Stan, Alan, Redeye, and others. I am doing this writeup to repay my debt for stealing their research and effort.
ZXXX - Bolt-on Pathway
This conversion of wheels, forks, and brakes leans on the 2006-2007 ZX10R for many parts, and does not convert the swingarm or rear brakes to ZX14 trim. The benefits of using ZX10R wheels and rear brakes are that no welding or fabricating is needed to adapt the caliper bracket to the XX swingarm, nothing has to be done to adapt the axle diameter (same), the chain length remains the same, wheelbase remains the same, and the caliper needs only some aluminum standoffs with longer bolts to achieve the correct offset to meet the rotor. As for the front, ZX10R wheels are a popular conversion for the 14 crowd and they simply bolt up to a 14 fork with little drama, albeit with the 14 rotors. They're lighter, also. People are using them on 14's, and I haven't heard of catastrophic failures on that platform - which carries a little more weight and a measurable amount more power.
The victim is a 1997 CBR1100XX, the FI models may have complications I am unaware of due to the FI intake and different radiator position - I just don't have a FI bike to test fit on. The 14's forks fit in the 929/RC51 SP1 combination of trees; the 929 stem, while a little longer than the XX, works. The bearings are the same. The steering stem lock is at the same position, but I don't have enough turn to get it to engage - still messing with it. More narrative to come on the general description.
Forks: Pre-2012 Kawasaki ZX14 (2012 and up ZX14R may work, I don't know if anything is different)
Front Brakes: Matching ZX14 master cylinder, calipers, lines, and rotors
Lower Triple Tree: Honda 929, with stem and bearings. The bearings are the same as the XX. The bearings on the 954 are the same size - I can't vouch for the stem length, though. An RC51 SP-1 lower may work better (bearings the same as the XX), but caveats on the stem length here as well. The radiator clearance may be improved with the 51's clamp arrangement.
Upper Triple Tree: 2000-2001 Honda RC51 SP-1. I don't know why a 929 upper wouldn't work, and may work better. Check back after I ebay a cheap one.
Wheels: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R front and rear.
Rear Brakes: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R caliper, mount/bracket, and master cylinder. *Jury is still out on the MC*
Sprocket: 2000-2005 Kawasaki ZX12R 45T (Supersprox #ISB-SWP-9516) NOTE THAT THIS IS FROM THE 12R not the 10R as most everything else rotating.
Controls: 2000-2005 Honda Superhawk right side switch and throttle assembly (2pcs). You will use the XX cables. I'll explain in the narrative why, and try to explain the re-wire that needs to be done.
Clip-ons: DanMoto 50mm fully adjustable clipons
Front Fender: OSBODYKIT (ebay seller) Carbon Fiber 2006-2007 ZX10R fender. Just personal preference over the 14's fender. Or you can source a stock 10R fender. Of course, the 14 fender will bolt right up if you don't hate the looks.
Fender Brackets: Twowheelwerks.com brackets adapt the 10's fender to the 14's forks. $60 well spent for me, YMMV.
Rear Caliper Bolts: xxmm x dia x pitch allen head
Rear Caliper Spacers: xxmm x xx id x xx od aluminum round stock
Rear Axle Spacers:
Prices/Sources:
Forks: I got mine from the folks in Canada that make the T-Rex conversions - they have a lot of zero-mile take-offs. I paid $750 shipped for the entire front brake setup including rotors and rotor bolts, along with the forks, axle, spacers, and complete ZX14 triple (which I ended up not using).
Front Brakes: See above.
929 Lower Triple with stem: I can't find the receipt for mine, but I think it was $175. There is one up now for $200 - patience and a long-term acquisition plan is the key to frugality on these.
RC51 SP-1 Upper Triple: $38 shipped from eBay. I know it was a felony.
ZX10R Wheels: Keep an eye on eBay. I think I got a deal on mine for $350 shipped, and I sold the rotors for $110. I did bearings on both ends because the rear was totally shot. I should have done the cush drive as well.
Rear Brakes: I just saw a complete rear brake setup - pedal, master, line, caliper, and mount/bracket - for $75 BIN on eBay.
Sprocket: Indysuperbike.com. $102 shipped. I had a hard time finding this, and finding it cheap wasn't happenin'.
Controls: SuperHawk (VTR 1000) start/kill and throttle housing on eBay. I think if you spend $50 shipped for both that's a lot.
Clip-ons: Danmoto.com. $99 shipped via eBay, if you order off the website you pay $99 plus shipping.
Front Fender: OSBODYKIT on eBay. $158 shipped, here in three days. From China. In three days, for chrissakes. From China.
Fender Brackets: Twowheelwerks.com, $60 shipped.
To Do:
measure brake spacers (length, id, and od)
measure caliper mount bolts
identify rear axle spacer
steering stops - not.
Assembly narrative
Nice write up, thank you.
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I have an R&G FS.
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It came today.
Thanks man, now I have to figure it out how to connect the sucker
Cool, that didn't take long. I will see what I can do to find the diagram Jay gave me. There is a thread on here that shows how to hook it up but I'm not sure how to find it.
Found it
http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=74773
Now I can use HID on LOW and HI.
I'll connect a relay to the HI from the delay relay to keep the HI beam to go off too.
Something like this. :icon_think:
Nice, let me know how it turns out.
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It came today.
Thanks man, now I have to figure it out how to connect the sucker
Cool, that didn't take long. I will see what I can do to find the diagram Jay gave me. There is a thread on here that shows how to hook it up but I'm not sure how to find it.
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No problem, glad I could help.
Won't start
in The Garage
Posted
Thanks!