Fast Eddy
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Posts posted by Fast Eddy
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Mine crapped out at 25,000 mi. but I was told by riding with my hi beem on during the day I may have helped it along.
Now that being said, I remember how crappy your battery terminals looked when it wouldn't start when loopin'. You should start with the simple stuff like connections, if your battery is more than 4 years old just replace it. Dielectric grease is your friend on all weather exposed connections.
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Does anyone know of a small stand alone volt meter I could add to my XX.
After having R/R trouble I would like to be able to monitor this from the cockpit.
I'm rokkin' the Datel... http://store.cd4power.com/cgi-bin/cd4power...d3/Catalog/1042
Mike
Thanks Mike...
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Does anyone know of a small stand alone volt meter I could add to my XX.
After having R/R trouble I would like to be able to monitor this from the cockpit.
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That's how I have mine set up.
That's how I have mine setup, as well.
Why? I thought the PC units alouded you to adjust timing and fuel?
so why one for timing and one for fuel?
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Is it possible the new brake pads are "breaking in". I have heard of "bedding in" or the surfaces need to mate. Could this be the case, although with the claim of vibe when braking with rear brakes, def look at rear rotor.
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Perhaps Paul's claim of 20 extra HP was a bit premature. But the claim was probably driven more by exuberance of his initial results than any deceitful intent. Hopefully someday we'll understand his initial success and be able to consistently reproduce it. But that won't happen without more development, testing, innovation
and failure.I believe that's a Home run.
Please do keep us posted, I think it is very cool to be part of a R&D project.
I would like to see some new technology happen right hear before our eyes. :icon_clap: :icon_clap:
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Your not even down to the ware bars, totally 1K
Or let Josh borrow it for a minute
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You will find it in a store for DIY electronics like Radio Shack. If you tell them you want a compund that improves heat transfer between metal parts they will know.
Thanks, hopefully between this compound and the better heat sink on the new one, it will not let me down again.
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The easiest and best way to improve the lifetime of the RR is to sandpaper the frame and RR backside to get good metal-to-metal contact. Applying heat sink compound on the bare metal surfaces can do some further improvement of the heat transfer capability. The compound layer shall be very thin though, it shall only fill the hair-thick scratches on the metal surface, i.e. one should be able to look though the compound and see the metal when applied. A layer of e.g. 1 mm or more will reduce conductivity.
Hmmm heat sink compound ya say. can I get that stuff at a good hardware store? or is it a electronics specialty?
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Honey Brown is THE BEST!
wondered if anyone would take notice of that...
I put that in the shot on perpose to see what would come of it.
nice, love the honey brown, good brew!
That's the same general look of the one I got. Make sure it isn't stickered "CBR600" anywhere. The first one they sold me was, and I took it back. The tech said "they're the same". Hell with that, gimme another one. He did, it was the right one, and I've had no problems with it. Others have had bad luck with Electro-sport stuff so I'd keep a weather eye on it at least for awhile.Thanks for the heads up, will keep an I on it.
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Well I couldn't bring myself to by another OEM R/R, so I tried the aftermarket R/R and it loks pritty good. :icon_pray: :icon_pray:
I was able to get it for $77 local, wish me luck.
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if only these pipes had been introduced as a new slip-on alternative with cool looks and a better-than-average gain (+/-5 hp with a smoother curve), we'd all be pretty happy. Instead, they were simply oversold.
Word to Paul: You're obviously an stand-up kind of guy and you do excellent work. As a marketing strategy, you might want to consider lowering expectations and then surpassing them instead. Will sell more pipes.
But I don't think many people will line up to buy $1200.00 slip ons for a gain of 3-5hp.
I was able to get a full 2bro system, jetting and dyno tune for under a $1000.00 and gained 7hp.
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Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't the forks have to be at the same hight or else the front axle won't go through?
With that in mind wouldn't it be more likely that they just didn't get the clip-ons on at the same level?
I think I forgot a spacer once when getting a tire mounted and the wheel don't spin well, you would know.
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Morning,
Finally got the mounting completed yesterday. For those of you that don't know me, I have my own opinions about how things should look on my bike, so I end up making alot of shit myself... like the mounting brackets for these cans.
After all that I finally took it out for a ride. Just a short run... less than 10 miles. So here's some quick observations from that.
1. Yes they're louder, but not by much. It's a very deep sound in comparision to the Yoshi's I had on there, and only some longer rides will tell wether or not the low resinance will vibrate the helmet more.
2. Looking at my AFR guage.. yes it's running a little Leaner. About 4 tenths of a ratio at full throttle. This tells me they're flowing alot better than my previous system and I'm going to have to make changes to my custom map that I was already running.
I think that means they are definately going to make more power.
If you've been around for a while, you'ld also know that I recorded that the stock set-up was really rich. So with that in mind... it's very probable that slapping a set of these on a stock bike could drastically improve things. We'll test that on Monday.
Below is some pictures.... Now you can see why I'm totally stoked. They look awesome, and fit the style I've been shooting for a long time.
ps. I know I know... I need to wash it, but if you knew what I had to drive throuth to get out of my neighborhood you'ld understand. Pain in the ass road construction.
Later,
WOW they look cool but big and long. Your seat looks interesting whos is it?
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Starting with the obvious and most easiest....
TopXXCop wins the $5 or less repair award and a real bonus if it works then Yay for you.
Second I would start verifying connections to the power commander.
Third I would start verifying the map load and settings on the power commander. Somebody posted a video link on here somewhere just the other day about how to adjust the low, mid, and high ranges, on the PC3 USB.
Thats my take on things but I am a glorified, shade tree mechanic too....So take it for what it might be worth. The recent Dyno run is leaning me towards fuel/air mixture ratios.
EDIT: Your 4 month old gas in the tank post leads me to believe TopXXCop nailed this one. Seafoam and some fresh 93 (94 if you have Sunoco gas station) and you should be good to go. Did you run that thing on the dyno with that old gas? Was it you that ran your XX on the dyno lately?
First what is SEAFOAM, and second you only need 91 or 92 octane anything higher is not a performance gain.
Octane any higher is only helpfull IF you have a high compression engine or hot engine detonation problem.
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From what I have heard all street bikes can gain some Hp (small but cheap HP) from 2 to 4 degrees of advance will get you some HP. Do to emissions most bikes are tuned for lowest possible emissions not best performance.
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hey great I in, thanks and changed.
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Alpinestars SMX-3 I believe are the ones I bought last year and they are water proof.
All the years I was being cheap and buying budget boots boy am I sorry now these are soooo nice and super comfortable!
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I have a 16T that is not dampened, but feel no ill affects I have been running those kind of sprockets for a long time. Would I be able to notice if I switched to a dampened one? A friend has a stock 03 XX and I didn't notice any unusual vibe compared to mine when he let me check it out.
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Holy crap that is expensive... no thanks till I win the lotto... I am on a budget cause I got married (DON'T DO IT) and now I am poor... but I will look into the RC stuff and see if the miser(wife) will stop spending $$ on shit for the house we don't need long enough to put some chips down on the RC stuff. :icon_think:
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FWIW I have an entire RC51 setup (well almost) Forks, Triples, F/R wheels, sprocket and rear brake disk for sale. All thats needed is the front brake setup.
What is the advantage to doing this change?
Lighter wheels make it easier to transition left to right (less rotating mass), quicker acceleration (again less rotating mass to spin), ALOT better brakes on the front and 100x better front forks than the stock front end.
I understand the rotating mass stuff I just didn't know if the RC wheels were lighter or wider or if there was some other advantage I was not aware of SO that said how much $$$ would you want for the RC stuff you have? Also could anyone tell me how much lighter the RC wheels are than stock XX Wheels?
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What is the advantage to doing this change?
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Would it not be ezer to go fast in a staight line and level line rather than fight the down force of the banking at Datona? you must lose energy compressing the suspension centifical forces and so on?
Volt meter...
in The Garage
Posted
That company doesn't sell direct to the people so I hit a link to one of their distributors and they wanted $50.
I will check one other local shop that usually has most stuff, otherwise I will order one up.