busabuddy
-
Posts
13 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by busabuddy
-
-
One thing that should be said, a voltmeter tells a lot.
voltage before starting
voltage during starting
voltage after starting
voltage at higher RPM
These voltages are going to tell you almost everything you need to know to diagonse the system.
yup - keep in mind all systems checks must be done with a known good battery
so, i'd bite the bullet and get a new one if there is any doubt -- rotor and stator failures are fairly rare -- but rectifier/regulator failures are not -- plus all wiring from the stator to the r/r needs to be checked -- burnt connectors are a big problem on "classic " bikes
The busa was having issues, but a new battery and battery tender fixed that right up -- keep in mind superbikes don't charge well at cruising speeds -- usually need at least 4k rpm to get decent amperage
feel free to call me -- you can fly down and feed me or chili's gift cards are accepted
There is no red trolley on draft here tho
-
Sucks when things strip - big time
A heat gun is much safer than a torch, and brake cleaner is great for chilling the bolt.
Please don't do both at the same time.
:icon_snooty:some brake cleaner is flammable -- some is not -- if you lose your eyebrows and get a reverse mowhawk -- you have the flammable kind
-
Sucks when things strip - big time
It should come out and be repaired with a Heli-coil.
And to get things loose always heat the part the threads go into, and chill the bolt. The idea is to utilize thermal expansion and contraction to break the bond.
Same idea goes for installing bearing races, heat the race - freeze the shaft or housing.
A heat gun is much safer than a torch, and brake cleaner is great for chilling the bolt.
I hope you don't regret not fixing it.
I think what BG is saying is the hex portion on top of the bolt rounded off on him -- not the threads
I'd be very leery of helicoiling anything that held my bars on
-
Another trick is to hammer in a slightly larger allen -- and i have had some luck with torx bits
You want torque on it not a sharp blow
If you are using a torch I'm glad I'm out of the area
-
You might want to avoid using impact such as a hammer or an impact wrench on this type of bolt. If the wrench is not perfectly fitted to the inset, the risk of stripping the bolt is high. Being a recessed bolt, your only recourse after that would be to use a reverse splined extractor, and if that didn't work, to drill it out. That would be a a struggle just to access the bolt with a drill. The wheel would have to be removed and the fork slid up throuth the triple trees to gain a straight shot.
Looks like I was too late. The bolt thread is stripped. I bought a hex bolt socket set today and put a little pressure on the bolt and it's officially stripped.
If I don't mess with the bars, I assume I can keep riding it the way it is? I never made any leverage on loosening that bolt anyway....
hoooooboy --- here we go again -- BG---BAD BG (slaps hand) -- don't touch !!!
Sorry bud I'm 2k miles away
-
I actually pretty much just point out whats wrong to him and let him do it
Yeah....it's more like.....here's what you screwed up.....now go get me a beer while I fix it. Good thing I don't have any food in the house or I'd be making sandwiches too......
Good mechanic trainees have to make good sandwiches too
:icon_clap: 
-
Don't sweat it Mr Gibb -- we'll git ya up to speed in no time
I actually pretty much just point out whats wrong to him and let him do it -- the ol "teach a man to fish" thing
'98 Bird won't turn over/start
in The Garage
Posted
Ya -- i was trying to walk him through a stator test this afternoon but he got a bit spooked by the prospect -- what should the bird do --bout 80 acv on all 3 legs ?