99Birdman

Not necessarily on point since I'm not familiar with the producr but, you can frequently pick up a PCII or PCIII on ebay for around $170-$175

I tried running a 99 R/R on my 97...failed miserably...blew out both headlights the instant I used em...R/R was giving out a steady 18v...still dont know why...it was brand new out of the box...i chalked it up to the black wire not being connected because thats the only difference between the wiring of a 97 vs a 99 (as far as the reg/rec goes)...using an R1 unit now I started a thread on it several months back THanks, James. That was the info I was referring to. Is it possible the newer r/r's use the black wire as some kind of triggeer to regulate output?

I have the black wire disconnected on my '99 when I installed the R1 unit, so I knoqw what you mean. It works fine with the harness side wire taped over when adding an r/r that doesn't use it. I just seem to remember someone posting at the time they had trouble the other way around (trying to use an r/r with the black wire with a harness that didn't). Probably talking out my ass though.

I'm not sure what you mean by lack of positive connection. Once you individually shrink wrap each of the spade connectors to the r/r they aren't going anywhere but I certainly understand the added confidence of the actual snap connector. As you said, each to his own. I do have one question. I was under the impression the newer r/r's have a black wire that several people have hypothisized it's function but isn't on the earlier models. I believe someone had trouble getting the newer r/r to work without it connected. I'd be interested to know if it really is a problem and, if so, how you get around it. Good luck

Having registered many 48 state bikes in Kalli, I wouldn't worry about it anyway. I've never met a DMV type that has any idea whether you've changed pipes or not and they certainly have no way (currently) of detecting any changes made by a PCIII. Inspection has always consisted of verifying numbers and mileage. Anything more technical is well above California DMV.

The '99 and up do indeed have cooling fins as opposed to the '97-'98. That being said, I beleive some on here have had problems with the r/r on '01 and later models. I'd definitely keep the R1 unit to use as a replacement if and when yours fails. Could be wrong but, I haven't heard of any failures once someone has converted to the R1 uniit.

I was under the impression the stock spring was .89 and the Wilburs was .9. Am I wrong? I weigh about 180 with all gear and the Wilburs seems to work great as far as sag settings go.

Tip: key has to be on

University Motors. Yamaha R/R somewhere around $50 shipped IIRC, plus they give a discount to forum members. http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...pic.php?t=26952

Your's is better prettier, Dale.

Stock headlight bulb is an H7. Do a search on "HID group buy" and you'll get all the info you want. I think you may still be able to get a kit: http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...t=hid+group+buy

Same symptoms I had on my '99. Turned out to be the R/R, so I'm with Sean. FWIW - the troubleshooting method in the shop manual didn't find the problem. I had to go through the Electrix flowchart.

BTW - I noticed no difference in ride height and my sag was right on at 30mm with the new springs and standard spacer.

65 kg = 143 lbs. I'm ceretainly no suspension expert but,the general feeling, I believe, is that the XX is undersprung and overdampened as it comes from the factory. Any of the aftermarket springs with the proper oil amount and weight should give you an improvement. Most of the guys on here are considerably heavier than you so they noticed a big difference with the new springs. Helvet really seems to like the Hyperpro springs and I think they are progressive. I was tempted to run a little less oil and larger air gap since I am lighter than the board average but it seems to work well with the recommended 150mm air gap. If you go with the Wilburs, you might consider using slightly less oil at your weight.

Actually, I believe the factory spring is a progressive .89 spring. The Wilburs springs many of us bought in a previous group buy were linear (aka straight rate or non-progressive) .9 or 1.0 springs. When installing the new springs, you use a different amount and weight of oil than stock. I'm happy with my Wilburs .9 spring with 150mm air gap and 2.5wt oil but I only weigh about 175lbs.

I just cut the black wire and taped it. As noted in the link above, the black wire doesn't seem to do anything important (at least that I've noticed). I did use an '01 R1 R/R not a '99. I don't know if there's a difference or not. One thing I did notice is that the R1 doesn't allow nearly as much voltage to go to the battery. The old Honda unit ran at about 14.3-14.6 volts at 3000rpm. The R1 unit doesn't seem to get above 13.9v. The consensus on the board was that this is ok and so far it seems to work.

You won't have the problem with the '97. With the '99 (and I think '00 and up) Honda wired 2 hot wires to the reg and 2 ground wires. If you look at the schematic, they join in the wiring harness so it must have something to do with the design of the Honda r/r. Again, just plug the wires according to the picture in this thread, you'll be fine.

I didn't cut the harness on my '99. Just cut the connectors of the old stock R/R and used spades to hook them to the R1 Reg. You do have to solder the 2 hot leads into one, same with the ground. Seems to work fine so far.

All 3 of the back row are the yellow wires from the stator. Doesn't matter what order you plug them in.

Good luck http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...der=asc&start=0

I have read at least one article where it mentioned the R/R uses the frame contact as a heat sink to help disperse the heat generated by the R/R. I'll try to find the link but it seems to make sense as one of the functions of the R/R is to convert the excess voltage generated by the stator but not needed by the battery or to run the bike into heat. Again, that's what I read when researching the best solution for my charging sytem problems. I'm certainly no expert in this area. Found the link: http://www.one-ring.net/vfrfaq/reg-rect.html He did the work on a VFR reg. but it would seem to apply to the BB edited to add link.

Man, that sucks. I guess I was lucky to get a European switch housing from them before they went away. I really like the way it allows me to start the bike without having to fire the HID.

The R/R you want is from an '01. The part number is 4JH-81960-01-00. It is not a direct plug and play since the R1 connector is different. That being said, it is the most compatible with the 97-98 Blackbird since these bikes only have 1 each hot lead and ground (as does the R1 R/R) compared to having to combine 2 into one as I did for my '99. If you set up a connector to adapt the R1 R/R in advance, changing the part itself on the road would be a piece of cake. Check out the following for how to adapt the connector. http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/...eg_replace.html

That's probably why he needs a choke. Don't you use that when it's cold out?

Until it breaks. :poke: