rca29

I followed the Warchild method and i found it very easy. I placed the tank the same way that Carlos (article from this website) did and used the tools that came with the bike, and a 45 degrees needle nose pliers. It took me about an hour because i had to take care of a few other things (on the phone) while i was doing it. Thank you all

First of all, thank you Dave for your quick response. I did it this afternoon (the bike wasn't running with water on the radiator after all, but i replaced the coolant anyway). I live in Portugal, and i think that it should be VERY difficult to find the water wetter :sad: I did all the steps covered in the service manual (drain pipe, bolt on the block, released the air bleed hose) and i think that everything's ok. After reinstalling these elements, i started filling up the radiator up to the filler neck. While i was filling it, i saw some air bubbles coming out of it ( radiator filler opening). Then (when the coolant reached de radiator neck), i installed the RADIATOR cap, and filled up the reserve tank (a little more than the max line as i couldn't see it) at that point. I started the engine (without the reserve tank cap), let it iddle for 3 minutes, snapped the throttle 4 or 5 times...and i didn't noticed any drop on the coolant level ! I stopped the engine, started it again, snapped the throttle and the coolant was at the same level (a little above the max line). Then i let it iddle until the point where i know that the fan should start working (on the temp needle gauge), the fan started working, but the coolant stayed at the same level. I drove the bike for a while and everything seems to be ok, but i have three questions: - Is there any possibility that there is some air left in the circuit (as the coolant level never dropped) ? - Is it normal that the coolant on the RESERVE tank doesn´t get hot, even after the the fan started working ? (naturally, at this time you can't almost get close to the radiator, or the large radiator hoses as they VERY HOT - doing their job - but the reserve tank is almost cold) - Is there any problem to have the reserve tank coolant level a little above the max line ? (It's really hard to see the level in that milky white tank), unless you get a special light angle). Thanks a lot for your help, Dave

Hi, I'm planning to replace the coolant (actually, i noticed yesterday that my Honda dealer sold me my used xx with water on it, instead of the antifreeze/water solution), but i have two questions: - In order to do the air bleeding, the manual says to start the engine, let it iddle for 2-3-minutes, snap the throttle 3-4 times to bleed air... When i do this step, should the reserve tank cap be removed, or must it be closed ? I changed the coolant on my car several times, but it has a screw to bleed the air, but i think that this is different on the bike... On the service manual i see a hose going to the radiator called "air bleed hose", do i have to do anything with it ?? Thanks for your urgent help, as i'm planning on doing it today

Next Saturday i will find out if the Warchild method is good for me (and i'm convinced that it will be). I got the 45 degrees needle nose pliers today and i'm planning on using the toolkit that came with the bike to remove the spark plugs. I bought the bike ('99 black) in second hand with 18.000 km and now it has 23.000 km, but i don't know when the spark plugs where last changed. So i'm gonna change the oil and the oil filter (yes, i'm going to use the 'shortcut' guides to do it) and check the spark plugs and air filter. In my last bike (cbr600 F2) i've always replaced the spark plugs AFTER they died. Usually, i don't use the bike that much during the winter, and sometimes the cbr600 would be stored in the garage for 3 or 4 months, wich means that every 2 years or so, i had to replace the spark plugs, not because they were worn (they had like 3000 km), but i always felt that they were 'old' and the bike just wouldn't start. I don't know a lot about spark plugs, but i always noticed the better performance after changing to new ones on my cbr600, even when they looked like new and had only 3.000 km. The strange thing is that i never experienced that improvement after changing the plugs on my cars, not even when they look really worn out. Strange... :roll:

Thanks for your answers. I wasn't planning on removing the upper cowl, as my Honda dealer told me that they don't need to do it, they only remove the lower cowl. But 'mickcbr1100' made me think of something: - They have a stand so the bike gets a lot higher from the ground, and that may keep them from wrenching their necks while doing it. :headscratch: I will do it in the 'Warchild' way. It's the 2nd time that i ask something to my Honda dealer and end up finding out that you guys on the forum are right... Thank you a lot

Yes, i did used the search button, and i've read the (great) article on this by Warchild, and on this site :worship: . From what i understand (from the Honda service manual), i would have to remove all the fairing (including the whole upper cowl but, today i asked in my Honda dealer if they do all that, and he told me that they only have to remove the left and right lower cowl (and move the radiator, etc.). My question is if anyone tried it, as i wouldn't like to mess with the air funnel stacks... ...which it's always better than remove the upper cowl :roll: Thanks