Edward Hewitt
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Posts posted by Edward Hewitt
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On 5/3/2018 at 9:06 PM, silverbird1100 said:
What should be my top dollar?
I'm selling a 2000 with 50k for 4000. Im second owner. First owner was 60 years old, regularly maintained. I put new battery, rectifier, stator, starter relay. Bike has great body. Not trying to give you a sales pitch because I'm working on a small electrical issue just wanted to give you an example of what I'm selling for. Sounds like it's gonna need some long overdue maintenance and in my opinion you could find a better deal on a trader site
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8 hours ago, ironmike said:
A new battery, huh? Did you bench charge it before installation? I don't mean with a trickle charger, but with a smart charger capable of at least 2.0A/hr. It typically takes 6-10 hours of bench charging at such low & slow rates to initially charge a 10AH battery (OE - YTZ12S/YUASA) to its full (and likely future ) capacity. If you didn't bench charge it first, remove the battery, check the cells electrolyte levels, and check the no-load charge level. Now let it sit for a few hours (if your garage is too cold, bring it inside and let it come to room temp). Now try bench charging with an appropriate charger. If you're using a smart charger you can let it charge overnight - it won't overcharge. Take a voltage reading after charging. As redxxrdr and superhawk996 said, a no-load reading of 12.7-13.5v usually means a happy battery. Per the shop manual, 12.3v or below indicates a battery beyond hope - replace it. Here are some helpful links . . .
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2064f870023420a2f7ac/battery
https://www.amazon.com/Ampeak-Battery-Charger-Maintainer-Automatic/dp/B07DD8BJ9V/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541266804&sr=1-11&keywords=12v+battery+charger+smart (not an endorsement - just cited as an example)
It pays to do some research and comparison shopping. Best of luck!
Really appreciate the tip. The Place I bought the battery from sold me a trickle charger and said the charge it over night and it would be fine. That's what I get for going against my better judgment. I thought it sounded funny
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8 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
I'll chime in, the battery with a full charge and no loads should sit at 12.7. 12.5 is acceptable, but any less indicates a problem. 12 would indicate it's completely fucked.
Just now, Edward Hewitt said:I was having trouble with my left turn signal. I'll dig deeper. Cheers
8 hours ago, superhawk996 said:I'll chime in, the battery with a full charge and no loads should sit at 12.7. 12.5 is acceptable, but any less indicates a problem. 12 would indicate it's completely fucked.
Thanks. Yeah its reading 11.7 on new battery a day after being on the trickle. I always over think these things do all kinds of work and it winds up being the easy fix the whole time. At least my entire charging system is new now.
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12 hours ago, redxxrdr said:
The good news is you seem to have it down to electrical.
Battery could have been damaged, or just bad.
easiest would be to pull it, and have your local FLAPS check it.
Or disconnect you negative pole on the battery, and charge overnight. It should charge to 13.5 vdc or so.
Disconnect your charger and let the battery sit for a couple hours. It should stay around 12.5 vdc. If it drops below 12 vdc, bad battery.
if the battery holds up, connect it to the bike again, and monitor the voltage. It shouldn’t drop. If it does, I would go back to what you did last. r/R? Disconnect the plug and see it the battery stops dropping, r/R. If not, the troubleshooting continues.
Do you have any electrical farkles? If so, I would disconnect them one at a time until the voltage stops dropping
I was having trouble with my left turn signal. I'll dig deeper. Cheers
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On 10/27/2018 at 1:53 AM, superhawk996 said:
So many possibilities. Try the starting fluid, easy way to narrow down if it's a spark or fuel issue. What area do you live in?
I live in Philadelphia
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Could my battery have been damaged from running her on a bad stator and rectifier. I forgot to say that I changed the two because the relay from the rectifier to the stator was melted.stator looked awful too
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I bought a new battery, changed my rectifier and stator. Now the battery was low from just trying to figure it out. After changing these items I pop started her and road around the block a few times. I turned her off and about 5 minutes later I tried to start her and she started right up. I put her on a tender over night and when I came home from work today she wouldn't start. Voltage on battery was under 12volts and the turn over of the starter was very low. I appreciate any help gentlemen. I'm going out of my mind
Battery keeps dying
in The Garage
Posted
Last year my rectifier relay went bad so I decided to change my battery, solenoid, rectifier and stator. The bike ran perfectly for a year and now the bike wont start again even after being on the tender. The tender reads full charge but wont start. Any ideas?????