ChasRummel
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Posts posted by ChasRummel
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AND THE WINNER IS..................
Thanks to looking on Craigslist someone had these and no longer the bike they fit $180 for BOTH woo hoo.
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Some here will advocate using a car tire. They really last compared to cycle specific shoes.
And a far better tree swing for your yard when you do wear it out.
Pr3 are good, pr4 are good but pricey
I personally don't mind tire life being sacrificed for stickyness
Never buy Avon's
I feel the same on the later and will have $ recouped by then. Is the p3 at least slightly sticky? I really should get a set for best confidence in the twistys huh?
I've had the power 3's for around 1500 miles.
They're great. I run it hard and they are solid.
I dont ride in the rain, so I dunno about wet characteristics. Wear seems pretty good
cool
I would sooner run a matched pair of old, worn-out tires than mismatch an oldie with a sticky new tire. Asking for trouble there.
I am aware and planed to buy the match in short time, but as mentioned to Krypt I think I better just shell for the pair now
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that is really great news.....I am sure you feel much better just knowing the issue is manageable. I'm no authority on rubber but I am confident the crew will chime in. Did you ask the shop about rubber? FYI pretty sure rubber is much better now than the stock tire in 2003. TY
Thank you Yes she rides great and the feeling of knowing there are no pending problems that could do damageto the bike is priceless. I can fully enjoy the ride now.
Pr3 are good, pr4 are good but pricey
I personally don't mind tire life being sacrificed for stickyness
Never buy Avon's
Do Avons come in different colors? kidding.
I have the Power3 on mine and love them. I haven't done many miles, but occasionally hit a tight canyon and while I don't drag knee I do get on it pretty decent and they seem to stick well. I talked a buddy into them for his and he loves them too. He's put on a bunch of miles, many on low air cuz he's a 'tard, and they're holding up well. I don't know why the Kript says no to Avon, but Swamp ran them exclusively on his and loved them, I ran them on a different bike and loved them-both were many years ago so maybe things have changed or others have advanced to be better than the Avon.
Wow I'm glad to hear some of the members have owned and like them for the bird. They are in stock at fair internet like price at my local shop so I can have one tomorrow. I wish I could get a set but for now just the rear.
Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SP​ Hard to fall down with these on, love them!
I can believe that. At this point I dropped more cash than I can in a time frame by buying the bike having recent repairs then fixing my Intruder for sale. I really needed to sell the Intruder to buy the XX, but it was a time thing. They prob run $200 each here.
that is really great news.....I am sure you feel much better just knowing the issue is manageable. I'm no authority on rubber but I am confident the crew will chime in. Did you ask the shop about rubber? FYI pretty sure rubber is much better now than the stock tire in 2003.
they sell the ones I mentioned so I assume they would say those.
that is really great news.....I am sure you feel much better just knowing the issue is manageable. I'm no authority on rubber but I am confident the crew will chime in. Did you ask the shop about rubber? FYI pretty sure rubber is much better now than the stock tire in 2003.
TY I think I will go with the P# one now and the front is good but I may get a matching one just so it's fresher. The frt tire may be very old.
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Great news! Thanks to the honest pros at Bromley's in Trevose, PA I now (at a fair price) have a new chain, front sprocket better clutch feel and some answers.
On the head race bearing, as luck has: The mechanic ( a Bromley himself) tells me it's ok and does not need replacement right away.
You gotta love finding
a mechanic with the dealer's last name (has to be a good thing for quality repairs)
& honesty like that.
The handle bar wobble is due to the rear tire being worn
AND The mechanic made my day by saying that the bike is in really good shape and looks to have been treated well.
:-) :-) :-)
TIRES TIRES TIRES
That makes the bad new not bad at all I picked up a screw in the back tire and need a new one only one day with the bike back.
I intend to ride as far into winter as heated gear will allow. Even though I would love to say "What is the tire for racing guys that want to stick like glue with one knee down" I would rather say "Hey I'm not in the hospital because I was tooling down the road in the rain.
What do you guys THINK OF MICHELIN POWER 3S?
THANK YOU TO E V E R Y O N E WHO LENDED THEIR ADVICE, COMIC RELIEF AND FRIENDSHIP IN RESPONSE TO MY FIRST POST.
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clutch may just need a bleed
There should be a button for LOVE THIS.
clutch may just need a bleed
That would make it grab early, not late in the release.
The clutches save lives things was a bit on comic relief TY
If the clutch doesn't slip at full power there may be nothing wrong. If it does then just don't force it with full power 'till you're in the position to replace it. The only adjustment is the handle position. If it were not releasing or grabbing too early then a bleed may be in order. There is a possibility of the piston in the master not fully retracting and keeping pressure in the line, especially with some aftermarket handles, or maybe something even more rare causing it. To check the master function, remove the reservoir cap, make sure the bike and bars are in a position where fluid won't dump out and remove the cap with care to not dribble fluid that will be hanging from it onto the bike. With the cap off squeeze the handle and right at the beginning of the squeeze you should see a small spurt of fluid in the reservoir. Be careful that this spurt doesn't squirt out the reservoir onto the bike as brake fluid will eat paint, some plastics, and rubber not specifically designed for brake fluid. I like to bundle rags tightly around the reservoir and cover everything in the area to avoid spillage onto anything that can be harmed. If fluid gets on anything immediately wash it well, have a hose, soap, and wash towel ready just in case.
And yes, this is a very unique forum in my experiences and the best. Like most things it starts at the top and dribbles down. I've not heard of anyone needed to be kicked off, tho it may happen, I think it's somewhat self-regulating. Trolls would probably get bored and since we don't have them most people's potentially inflammatory remarks are fairly well received. There is also a high amount of trust given amongst many members. Last time I bought something from a member he sent it before I made the payment. He wasn't sure what the shipping would cost but gave me an estimate before I committed. Once shipped he told me it was in the mail and here's the total, less than estimated. It's a special place with great people, can't say enough.
looking for the love this button again TY
Two things with the clutch, actually three....
1. You can't adjust a hydraulic clutch. If it's working right, it should work all the time.
2. Flush the system with new brake fluid. Best way to eliminate problems such as air bubbles and water contamination.
3. The XX has "adjusters" on both brake and clutch levers. I find if they aren't out all the way, you have to get them all the way to the handle to make them work. I don't like that, personally. So, adjust the lever all the way out and see if that solves your problem...or at least helps.
I will try this after the bikereturns from chain sprocket job. At that point I will also have ifno as to what the repair shop said.
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First of all THANK YOU to EVERYONE THAT PITCHED IN TO HELP!!!!!!!!
This is by far the coolest group of ANY kind I have ever joined. I was BLOWN AWAY by how many of you took the time to help me especially being the FNG (f.....ng new guy) around here.
I did have to break down and take the bike to a shop BUT at least I (with everyones help) was able to weigh the options. If we were going into winter a bit sooner I would have done the chain myself. I dont have a rivet press (or time). I DID at least know what I was talking about thanks again and asked to have a front sprocket installed. It looks like it will be $110 for the chain $45 for a steel front sprocket and $90 hr labor (they said less than an hour.
If you are still reading in bad news my clutch seems to only start to grab on the last inch when I release it. I will look this up before asking anyone but I fear there is little I can do to adjust it.
The head race bearing will have to wait and on the bright side they have paved most the roads just recently around here after the awful winter damage that probably was what killed it.
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FWIW, a reliable set of metric tools can be had at Wal-Mart nowadays. Good enough for what you'll need to do.
What type of jacks or stands do you guys like for the bird? I'm sure I'll add all that stuff. $ is a bit tight now. I guess what I'm saying is since I need to keep the bike on the road Id rather have the chain installed w/ the few bucks I can max my card out than buy tools. I'll add them soon. I figure if I can get six points drop forged brand is not too important except for things like ratchets ( have those in Craftsman in all sizes) I have a good collection of S-K, MAC and Craftsman tools but for the large size metric stuff.
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is that a Yamaha 535 virago beside your bird?
It's a VS 1400 Intruder. I'm trying to sell it to pay for the stuff my XXneeds. It needs a tire and studs pressed in the cylinder. The original ones vibrated out.. The V-twin tends to loosen bolts due to the shaking. I tried putting bolts in it, but they only hold for one ride.
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If anyone that has successfully replaced a headrace bearing (or whatever it is called) lives near Bucks County PA or Philly and wants to hang out and make a fair side job buck.. I would like to know. I have done tons of work on cars I just never have done this before, the bike is scratchless black and I don't have large tools in metric or bike stands/jacks. Most my big stuff is standard for my GTO and other muscle cars that I have repaired or hot rodded in the past years.
Also, due to a debated car accident the insurance company keeps stalling payment on, my car is not drive-able so I need the bike back on the road quickly.
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Is there a nut loose between the tank pad and rear seat?
Welcome to the forum!YES A 48 YEAR OLD ONE!
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Congrats and welcome.
These bikes have a clutch brake of sorts, don't recall it's actual name. If you hold the clutch handle fully in the clutch may stop spinning so depending on the positions of the gears it may not go in. Honda added this to get rid of the clunk usually observed when going into gear. If you let off just a bit on the clutch while holding the shifter it should drop in. This is all assuming that it's not grinding or some other weird thing but just won't go into gear.
Check the chain tension as you rotate the tire looking for tight/loose parts and make sure it's lubed. The noise could be the chain or the cush drive rubbers, maybe something else.
Throttle locks have an adjustment, at least the ones I've seen, so it may just need a tweak.
Tho private sales are "as is" in most states, if the seller made statements about it being all good they are generally taken as an expressed guarantee so if you want to return it or get the repairs paid for you may have legal leverage.
Too late for this go-round, but always get a test ride. If the seller requires to hold the cash and/or draw up an agreement that's acceptable, if he absolutely refuses a ride then he's likely hiding something. When I bought the Duc the seller insisted on cash in hand to ride, everyone else has just handed me keys. I went on a pre-purchase inspection for a friend where the seller wouldn't allow a ride and the buyer wanted the bike anyway, my inspection revealed a lot of issues so the deal didn't happen.
Where do you live?
I Live in Bucks County just north of Phila. PA.
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As far as your cruise control............what cruise control? If you have a throttle lock or cruise control, its an aftermarket accessory, and we would have to know what brand/model to give any helpful advice.
Fapfapfap..........how loose IS the chain?
The XX has a big strong gearbox with big strong gears. Sometimes the lower gears don't line up quite right. Try moving the bike forward and backward a bit. If your oil is dirty, you might be surprised at how an oil change will make the trans shift nicer.
Check your PM's, I sent you a link to the repair manual.
I have found that double cluching works well to get her in first or net when she is being stubborn.
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I'm kinda lost now on Delusions is saying are you helping me tighten the head bearing or speaking about the chain?
Tomorrow I am TAKING THE BIKE TO THE LOCAL HONDA DEALER FOR A NEW CHAIN $129 PLUS $65 TO INSTALL.
( sorry caps lock) I have to look down to type.
I hope the sprockets are good or at least cheap to have done while there.
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Is there a nut loose between the tank pad and rear seat?
Welcome to the forum!Yes a 48 year old one.
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THANK YOU EVERYONE who has pitched in to help. Here's the status I preformed most the checks that were suggested here. OK so we started with a clunk over bumps ( a bad one) We found that YES i does click when backing up and hitting the breaks So I think we narrowed it down to the bearing being loose or shot and the tire being "cupped" and I may need a new chain. It's a big job, so I would like to try to tighten it first. It looks like I need a special tool. Has anyone tightened or adjusted this, did it work, How is it done just get the tool and turn clockwise? I have never ran into this problem so I have no idea how it happens. I hope this plus the tire wear do not indicate that the bike has been in a major accident. Attached are a few photos to help you help me ; the last one is me.(again THANK YOU) I spent more than I really could afford to get the bike and was promised it needed nothing. I told the guy my car is out of commission for a few months in the body shop and I needed to be sure I could just ride it without bullcrap
Such is the way of some people and $$$. It's hooray for me the heck with you. as my Grandfather used to say.
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That front tire does not look worn out but it could be screwed up but I would look at other places also. Head bearing first, is the front wheel straight, etc. Take one section at a time to make sure it checks out and then move to the next.
I think I see what is wrong with the tire now. It has tread but odd wear on sides. Anyone on how this happens?
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Looks like a audiovox cruise to me.
No fair posting a nice clean bike after my dirty bike post.
Forks look to be stock height. But if you had seen my SV when I bought it, then you would understand my concern.
I would also suspect the tire.
I felt bad riding it in the rain. One week b4 this photo it had NEVER been in rain. I believe that because there is almost no way the guy could have cleaned some of the places that were spotless The bike IS too tall for me I'm 5'10 and I'm too tippie toed to back her up on anything but level ground. To be frank I've been riding since I was a kid and it scares me to the point of an Adrenalin rush when I need to put a foot down in a parking lot turn and the ground isn't level. it def has a head bearing problem and I was hoping it was from that. I hope it not the tire that stuff adds up. the tread seems ok what happened to it and how does that happen? Last time I had a bike in a shop they doubled the estimate and left it with no oil AND cut the line for the clutch so fluid was all over. It had to go straight to another place. All that for a stator repair.. OOO I have a headache
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As far as your cruise control............what cruise control? If you have a throttle lock or cruise control, its an aftermarket accessory, and we would have to know what brand/model to give any helpful advice.
Fapfapfap..........how loose IS the chain?
The XX has a big strong gearbox with big strong gears. Sometimes the lower gears don't line up quite right. Try moving the bike forward and backward a bit. If your oil is dirty, you might be surprised at how an oil change will make the trans shift nicer.
Check your PM's, I sent you a link to the repair manual.
Given the guy didn't let you test ride, you could have any number of issues.
First, check your chain slack and wear indicator. You might need a new chain/sprockets. If your adjuster is full out, a loose chain will slap from the slack.
If you pull the body panels, you can put it on its center stand and use a floor jack under the engine block to gently lift the front tire off the ground. Turn the wheel lock to lock. If it's not quiet and smooth, you may need to tighten things up and/or replace the head bearings. lock the front tire (so it won't spin) and gently pull forward and back on it. It shouldn't move at all. If it does, you have loose/worn head bearings. I don't know how easily those things wear out, but riding when things are loose will cause them to wear needlessly.
I don't know what you mean by "hard braking." If the clutch and brake fluids have never been replaced, that's a likely problem. Normally you flush the system(s) every 2-3 years to deal with any contamination that gets into the system.
Definitely do an oil and filter change. I have more of an issue going into neutral from 1st or 2nd (especially if stopped), but never a problem going into gear. If your clutch fluid is contaminated or low, you may be getting inadequate application of the clutch, which is more critical going into 1st gear from neutral than slipping up and down the higher gears.
ALSO, POST YOUR MILES!
Knowing how much is on the clock will give us an idea of what should or shouldn't be an issue.
My Blackbird has 21,000 miles on it.
Here is the indicator: it looks grim as the chain is rubbing on the center stand or was until I used a magnet 1/4 inch thick to shim it away until I find sockets the right size. I assume they are part of the tool kit that is NOT under my seat and prob in someones tool box.
As far as your cruise control............what cruise control? If you have a throttle lock or cruise control, its an aftermarket accessory, and we would have to know what brand/model to give any helpful advice.
Fapfapfap..........how loose IS the chain?
The XX has a big strong gearbox with big strong gears. Sometimes the lower gears don't line up quite right. Try moving the bike forward and backward a bit. If your oil is dirty, you might be surprised at how an oil change will make the trans shift nicer.
Check your PM's, I sent you a link to the repair manual.
Given the guy didn't let you test ride, you could have any number of issues.
First, check your chain slack and wear indicator. You might need a new chain/sprockets. If your adjuster is full out, a loose chain will slap from the slack.
If you pull the body panels, you can put it on its center stand and use a floor jack under the engine block to gently lift the front tire off the ground. Turn the wheel lock to lock. If it's not quiet and smooth, you may need to tighten things up and/or replace the head bearings. lock the front tire (so it won't spin) and gently pull forward and back on it. It shouldn't move at all. If it does, you have loose/worn head bearings. I don't know how easily those things wear out, but riding when things are loose will cause them to wear needlessly.
I don't know what you mean by "hard braking." If the clutch and brake fluids have never been replaced, that's a likely problem. Normally you flush the system(s) every 2-3 years to deal with any contamination that gets into the system.
Definitely do an oil and filter change. I have more of an issue going into neutral from 1st or 2nd (especially if stopped), but never a problem going into gear. If your clutch fluid is contaminated or low, you may be getting inadequate application of the clutch, which is more critical going into 1st gear from neutral than slipping up and down the higher gears.
ALSO, POST YOUR MILES!
Knowing how much is on the clock will give us an idea of what should or shouldn't be an issue.
My Blackbird has 21,000 miles on it.
Here is the indicator: it looks grim as the chain is rubbing on the center stand or was until I used a magnet 1/4 inch thick to shim it away until I find sockets the right size. I assume they are part of the tool kit that is NOT under my seat and prob in someones tool box. I checked chain wear the old way as shown in pic 2 where it doesnot seem to pull too far from sprocket but the slack compaired to the indicator seem to tell a different story.
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Another symptom is when I let go of the bars (ride no hands) I can go only a few secs b4 they start a violent wobble that would no doubt throw me.
The first thing that I always think of when this happens is the front tire. On my Wing, when the front tire is at the end of it's life, if you let go of the bars as the bike slows down, it gets to a point the bars start doing the same thing. I put new tire on and this never happens. There may be multiple things going on.
Thank you for your input. That's a cool thing to know and I never would have suspected tire wear. I think in this case the front is good. I think I'll need a rear tire soon. Sport bike tires are new to me, they sure don't many groves in them.
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Given the guy didn't let you test ride, you could have any number of issues.
First, check your chain slack and wear indicator. You might need a new chain/sprockets. If your adjuster is full out, a loose chain will slap from the slack.
If you pull the body panels, you can put it on its center stand and use a floor jack under the engine block to gently lift the front tire off the ground. Turn the wheel lock to lock. If it's not quiet and smooth, you may need to tighten things up and/or replace the head bearings. lock the front tire (so it won't spin) and gently pull forward and back on it. It shouldn't move at all. If it does, you have loose/worn head bearings. I don't know how easily those things wear out, but riding when things are loose will cause them to wear needlessly.
I don't know what you mean by "hard braking." If the clutch and brake fluids have never been replaced, that's a likely problem. Normally you flush the system(s) every 2-3 years to deal with any contamination that gets into the system.
Definitely do an oil and filter change. I have more of an issue going into neutral from 1st or 2nd (especially if stopped), but never a problem going into gear. If your clutch fluid is contaminated or low, you may be getting inadequate application of the clutch, which is more critical going into 1st gear from neutral than slipping up and down the higher gears.
ALSO, POST YOUR MILES!
Knowing how much is on the clock will give us an idea of what should or shouldn't be an issue.
My Blackbird has 21,000 miles on it.
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Congrats on the purchase, Charles.
First thought when you specify a clunk following braking and bumps is indeed the steering head bearings or bearing adjustment, but it could really be just about anything that's loose. Your XX deserves a complete checkup not only to make sure its safe, but to familiarize yourself with the machine.
I recommend:
*Look and feel over the entire machine. Look for bolts that might be loose, bare metal or shiny marks that may indicate moving parts that are rubbing, and of course any broken parts or things that look cracked. Feel for parts and assemblies that have movement or seem loose.
*Get on the bike and bounce on the suspension. Can you duplicate the clunk? Try moving the bike forward and applying the brakes aggressively. Do this a couple of times, engine off so you can here. Repeat it moving the bike backwards. If its the steering head bearings, you should hear a lighter version of this clunk, or feel it in the bars.
*Put the bike on the centerstand. Have a helper sit on the rear of the seat, or place a padded jack under the oilpan (not the fairing) in order to raise the front wheel off the ground. Pull the front wheel forward and up while pushing back on the top yoke (where your key is located). Let it back and repeat this several times. If you feel movement, or hear a mechanical noise, you probably have bad or misadjusted steering head bearings. Next, turn your bars completely left and right several times. There should be steady and light resistance...enough so that if you turn the bars to the side and release, they will continue to turn, but not as quickly as if they were falling. If you feel a change in resistance, extremely low resistance, or enough resistance that a small child would have to pull to move the bars, the bearings are bad or misadjusted. Also check for a "notchy" feel when the bars are centered, and when very slightly turned, they want to return to center. Keep in mind that your cables and wiring will create some artifact in this measurement, and you have to sorta/kinda factor that in.
Your noise has the greatest probability of being steering head bearings. It may also be poorly lubricated or damaged fork internals, loose components in the braking system, or any loose part or assembly on the bike. This has been merely a guide to a quick initial diagnosis.
Any information you have about damage or accidents to the motorcycle and the manner in which the previous owner rode can certainly aid in diagnosis. Repetitive harsh jolts to the front wheel, for example, can quickly damage steering head bearings. Could be hard landings from unskilled wheelies, or the crappy roads in Philadelphia/PA.
Good luck.
I continued to preform the checks you kindly shared with me RockMe, I backed down a hill and applied the front break. Yes, There IS a slight click much less then the one going forward over bumps. When going forward, the clunk is always there on bumps but almost undetectable with breaking. Another symptom is when I let go of the bars (ride no hands) I can go only a few secs b4 they start a violent wobble that would no doubt throw me. How can I determine if this the bearing as a culprit if it needs tightening or replacement?
A couple of thoughts. My 01 clunked on bumps when my fender was loose. 4 Allen head screws to tighten. Or pull it off and see if the clunk goes away.
My poor little SV was lowered by pulling the spacers above the fork springs out. There was zero preload, and it bottomed out, even with easy braking. A stock XX has a soft suspension, but the front won't dive too far.
if it dives allot, then the forks might be worth a look.
Edit, another mod that we often do is put a 10 mm shim under the top mount of the rear shock.
This makes the bike turn in faster, but it raises the rear more than 10mm. I'm only a bit taller than you. The mob helped the steering, but it is harder to park or back up. It would be worth looking at the shock to see if the shim is there.
Caution: don't go more than 10 mm.
Cruise control.
A few of us added Audiovox CS100 cruise to our bikes. It is a full cruise, with a small controller console that is usually mounted on the handle bars. A led on the console should come on when you push the on button.
If this is the style that you have, I would look at the light first (power ). Next would be vacuum connections, or the cable and ball chain from the servo to the throttle assembly.
These cruise work well, but were not made for motorcycles. Each installation was custom, (or rigged).
The audiovox manual is available on lin unable to do so againne, if that is what you have.
And most important.
WELCOME
The Cruise is a small black unit with soft rectangle button/switches that glow from backlighting
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superhawk996
Thank I live in Richboro, PA just 1/2 hour north of NE Philly. Will check as you suggested. I agree on sale test ride answer, but he was "odd" from the get go and the bike had not even a smuge on it. In addition owner lives two blocks away and I have no other transportation. Needless to say it's a SBB XX so I HAD to buy it. We all know that. :-) My God it is so fun to ride it's like straping on Spiderman's venom suit or one of those Alien movie type robots you climb in. Except when I forget to park where I don't have to back out. I'm 5'10 and am on my toes ity feels like I'm trying to push a car ourt of a ditch by myself.
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blackhawkxx Thank you. Will do checks u mentioned. 2) No gring just needs hard kick down sometimes like klift your foot 4 inches up THEN mash it down. Once it seemed to hit "netural between 3-4 I could be wroing but I thought i was already upshifting from 3rd.
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I LOVE this bike. I HATE to think I could damage anything by not fixing this before riding again. There is a clunk over bumps and hard braking. Could anyone please help me determine if the "head-bolt"? needs tighting or a full (yikes) replacement. I previous owner snuck three problems by me claiming my bike needed nothing at all not even an oil change and avoiding letting me ride it out of his driveway.
There is a running flap flap flap sound that could be the chain, the cruise control does not work and maybe the nature of the model but sometimes she resists going into gear (first) from neutral.
I'm new here and low on $$, so I don't want to seem needy. I would however be indebted to anyone with advise until I can acquire a Chilton or some type of repair manual. I have had bikes on and of all my life and am handy enough to have swapped a motor in my old primered "70" GTO, so I will try to home repair as much as I can.
Here she is BTW. My new love is this 2003 CBR1100 Super (and boy do they mean!) it Super Black Bird.
Final update "Finally Found" & Tire choices
in The Garage
Posted