texasplumr
-
Posts
100 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by texasplumr
-
-
Intermittant Ground connection under tank or by battery box
Battery ground is clean and tight, the ground under the tank is as well. Dammit, I was hoping this was gonna be easy.
On the "other" forum they mention the ECU being loose. Anybody have that problem? Guess I'll remove the rear cowell again since I know the rubber strap is broken. I kept having to move it out of my way. The PO kept a small compressor back there which probably kept it from vibrating when he rode it. I removed the compressor and keep it in a tank bag so it is free to vibrate.
The things I learn here on the forum.
Update: FI light hasn't come on since I strapped the ECU down. Guess I'll buy a replacement strap and replace my bungee.
-
Intermittant Ground connection under tank or by battery box
Battery ground is clean and tight, the ground under the tank is as well. Dammit, I was hoping this was gonna be easy.
On the "other" forum they mention the ECU being loose. Anybody have that problem? Guess I'll remove the rear cowell again since I know the rubber strap is broken. I kept having to move it out of my way. The PO kept a small compressor back there which probably kept it from vibrating when he rode it. I removed the compressor and keep it in a tank bag so it is free to vibrate.
The things I learn here on the forum.
-
Intermittant Ground connection under tank or by battery box
Battery ground is clean and tight, the ground under the tank is as well. Dammit, I was hoping this was gonna be easy.
-
Intermittant Ground connection under tank or by battery box
Thanks, I'll check that.
-
Came on and the bike died today. It started up and never reared it's ugly head again. The FPR was replaced 8K miles ago and the PO did the wire loom fix. Any suggestions?
It did this before but didn't die. Once I stopped for fuel many miles down the road it didn't come back on. I've searched but mostly found FPR and wire loom stuff. It's perplexing.
Thanks!
-
Just checked from Corbin web site and new is $439 and got me thinking if anybody here wants to get rid of theirs ?
I'd be interested black carbon one and will pay for actual shipping costs to UK....if the price otherwise is suitable for me
Send sondance a pm. He had a GFL and a Gunfighter when I bought his bike. I took the GFL so he still had the Gunfighter. Haven't seen him list any of the parts I didn't take yet.
-
I just use full-synthetic compatible with DOT3 and DOT4. Don't see the point in spending that much for brake fluid.
What's it do that's so special?
The boiling point is much higher.
I buy this stuff.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/v...-brake-fluid/28
DBP of 480 degrees. $3.99 at most auto parts stores.
What you're looking at goes up to 536 degrees.
Do you really need the 56 extra degrees? It's intended for track use or anything that puts high-stress on the brakes.
What kind of riding are you doing?
Nothing extreme, as my sig states, I'm old and I'm slow. The wet boiling point is the important number though since once you open the bottle it is no longer dry. Brake fluid attracts moisture like a magnet attracts steel.
I was just wondering if anybody used this stuff and if they got any more life out of it. But you're right, it is kind of spendy.
-
I just use full-synthetic compatible with DOT3 and DOT4. Don't see the point in spending that much for brake fluid.
What's it do that's so special?
The boiling point is much higher.
-
Anybody ever try this stuff?
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=Ate-...;action=product
Getting set up to bleed the system and thought I might try it unless someone here has had a bad experience.
Thanks!
-
I just purchased Hank's Givi E41's and SW-Motech mounting rack (thanks Hank) and have run into a challenge.
Hank had purchased the items used and therefore didn't have the original installation instructions. I was able to find a installation PDF online but the instructions don't match the version of rack I have as it look like I might have a first generation rack for the 1100xx.
The issue is the rear cross-bar that mounts across the rear fender. As you can see from the attached pics, the rack cross-bar runs across the mounting holes for the license plate light/frame.
Hank says he did not have to remove any of the rear fender components to remove the rack but he also has a newer year model 1100xx.
Does anyone have the installation instructions for the first-gen rack or have some insight how you mount the lower rear cross-bar in conjunction with the stock license plate frame?
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/article/view/55/1/20
I found this article with pics, maybe that will help. I have the Givi Wingrack so I don't have any direct experience with it.
-
Cool. I don't know much about them...they seem top notch though. I just don't think I'll use them enough to justify the space they'll take up in the garage.
I have one of these that I use as a top box. The keyless feature in great as you don't have to use a key to open the small door. Plexus, gloves, whatever, it's easy to get to. If I didn't already have a set of E46 side cases I'd be driving up to DFW to get these.
Good luck with the sale! These are great bags. I'd trade you for them.
-
The more downward angle the swingarm has when you set slack, the more it will tighten as it moves into line with the front sprocket and swingarm pivot. If the shock is lengthened or a shim is added, the swingarm will be at a different angle when you set slack. OEM chain slack recommendations assume you're dealing with the stock angle, so you have to compensate a bit for the new angle.
All that said, with a 6mm shim or equivalent added length to the shock, on the loose side of OEM spec is fine on the XX. When in doubt, find a heavy ass friend or two and compress the rear suspension through it's range and make sure the chain doesn't bind.
That makes sense, thanks!
-
I have been told and have seen it written that when you add an aftermarket shock or even a 6mm shim that it changes the adjustment on the chain from what is in the shop manual. I can't seem to grasp the reasoning of this. Why would it change when the tightest point in the chain is when the front sproket, swing arm pivot and the rear sproket are in perfect alignment? I just don't see why the amount of travel would make a difference. Maybe I'm missing something.
I'm sure there are those with much more experience than I who can explain this.
Thanks!
-
Russ,
The injected models have a significantly different power curve than the carbies. This is due to the fuel injection metering and the header construction. Carbies have a soft spot and then a "hit" as the revs climb in the 5-7000 rpm range. The soft spot accentuates the "hit." Injected models have a more linear power curve and just accelerate steadily. Google some dyno results and you can see the dip in the carbs performance which should mirror what you've experienced with your different XX's.
The knock at idle could be a few different things. Its most likely just driveline lash and is harmless. To test that, see if it goes away when you pull in the clutch.
Regardless of what brand shock is on the bike, the only thing about the shock that affects chain tension is its length. Your shock could be adjusted longer or shorter than an Ohlins, Wilbers, or another Penske, so that comparison really isn't a good indicator of your needs. Just adjust your chain so that it doesn't become over-tight as the shock is compressed.
The sciatic nerve is only in your leg, as it originates in from the lower lumbar spine. That's not to say you don't have nervous complication in your arm or hands, its just not the sciatic nerve. What comes to mind, especially on a long trip, and doubly so if you've been off an XX-type bike for a while, is that you may be bending your wrist and putting pressure on it for support. That hyperextension can impinge upon the nerves that go around that joint. In your case its most probably the ulnar nerve due to the lesser finger involvement. Support your weight with your back and keep your wrists straighter and this should improve. If it doesn't improve, or you notice involvement in your arm, you may have a problem with your cervical vertebrae involving a damaged or ruptured disc, and should see a neurologist/neurosurgeon to explore the problem and your options.
I'm glad that it wasn't my imagination on the power delivery. That makes complete sense.
I'm always careful to try and support my weight with my body and keep the pressure off of my wrists. However, it was a long hot trip and found myself adjusting quite often to give different parts of my body some relief. I guess I need to work on some conditioning of my aging body. Dammit!
Thanks!
-
I rode in from Florida yesterday with a new to me Bird. It's a 2000 and is the third one I've owned. The first two were a 97 and 98 respectively.
I have a couple of questions though. This one doesn't seem to have the pull my others had. It's plenty fast but doesn't seem to pull as hard when I hit the power band. Don't know, it could be my imagination. Wondering if anyone noticed a difference going from a carb to a fuel injected? This one has slip ons and that is the only performance mod I can find. My 97 had a full Yoshi system and the 98 had Two Brothers slip ons.
It also has a kind of knock when it is hot but only at idle. I researched that one and found I'm not the only one with that noise so I'm not going to worry about it.
Also, today I have numb fingers on my left hand. The little one and the one next to it. I've never had that before and put some miles on my others while I had them. This bike has Grip Puppies on it though and I've never had those. Anybody else have that issue? I'm not sure if I like them or not so it won't bother me to remove them.
It's got a Penske shock on it so now I need to set the sag and then figure out where the chain needs to be adjusted to. I'm pretty sure it isn't gonna be the same as the stock setting now. Any of you running Penske shocks notice a huge difference in chain adjustment?
Thanks for any and all help!
Not trying to prod, but how old are you? Numbness in fingers can be due to lower back injury, or degenerative discs. They push on your sciatic nerve, which can make your fingers numb. Sciatica can run up and down your legs, and hands. I am 26, but have had back surgery due to a weight lifting injury, which resulted in a crushed disc. The surgery fixed it, but from time to time after long rides, or being cramped in certain positions I can get a numbness in those exact fingers. If on long rides the problem persists, I would suggest stretching the lower back when filling up the tank. Also concentrating on not arching the back too much while riding. You may need some riser bars. Do some research, good luck my man.
Yeah, I hadn't thought of that. I'm 57 and had sciatica years ago due to a herniated disk. It hadn't bothered me in so long that I never even considered it. I guess I'll have to start excersizing again, which is what cured it last time. Dammit!
It has VFR bars already so the risers I have already taken care of.
Thanks!
-
I rode in from Florida yesterday with a new to me Bird. It's a 2000 and is the third one I've owned. The first two were a 97 and 98 respectively.
I have a couple of questions though. This one doesn't seem to have the pull my others had. It's plenty fast but doesn't seem to pull as hard when I hit the power band. Don't know, it could be my imagination. Wondering if anyone noticed a difference going from a carb to a fuel injected? This one has slip ons and that is the only performance mod I can find. My 97 had a full Yoshi system and the 98 had Two Brothers slip ons.
It also has a kind of knock when it is hot but only at idle. I researched that one and found I'm not the only one with that noise so I'm not going to worry about it.
Also, today I have numb fingers on my left hand. The little one and the one next to it. I've never had that before and put some miles on my others while I had them. This bike has Grip Puppies on it though and I've never had those. Anybody else have that issue? I'm not sure if I like them or not so it won't bother me to remove them.
It's got a Penske shock on it so now I need to set the sag and then figure out where the chain needs to be adjusted to. I'm pretty sure it isn't gonna be the same as the stock setting now. Any of you running Penske shocks notice a huge difference in chain adjustment?
Thanks for any and all help!
-
Thanks Rob! You were a ton of help. The bike is performing flawlessly. Saw very little rain and got out of the wind by the time I got to I-10. It's gonna be a nice ride home.
-
-
Corbin and helis are sold.
-
The seat is sold. The Helis are still available.
Thanks!
-
Price drop to 275.00 shipped on the Corbin.
-
I have a Corbin GF&L with the backrest for sale. The seat isn't torn but shows it's age. It has lavendar piping which looked pretty gay to me so I tried to dye it with a Sharpie. You can see where my Beads were on the seat but still very servicable. The backrest looks brand new. SOLD shipped anywhere in the lower 48.
Helibars are used but still in great shape. I just took them off last night.
SOLD shipped anywhere in the lower 48.
I'll now attempt to attach pics.
Paypal works for me.
Russ
-
i still have a set of Heli's, brand new, in the box, and am beginning to think i'll never put them on the bike.
don't know what to charge for them but i paid $230 in 2003 dollars.
PM sent.
No longer looking
did you get the LSL's on the bike yet? How did you like them?
No, the guy still has them I guess. I bought a set of Helis. I would have liked to try them but I need the bike set up for a trip on the 21st. I knew I was going to have to replace at least the clutch line and maybe the brake line and I needed the LSL risers on hand to know exactly what I was going to have to do. I felt I was running out of time.
Give him a shout because that's certainly a fair price. Spiegler will sell you the clutch line that comes with the kit by itself. I didn't ask them how much though.
-
i still have a set of Heli's, brand new, in the box, and am beginning to think i'll never put them on the bike.
don't know what to charge for them but i paid $230 in 2003 dollars.
PM sent.
No longer looking
FI light
in The Garage
Posted
Thanks, it was the first thing I checked when I removed the rear cowel. The plug still had dielectric grease from the PO replacing the RR. No problems there.