demon
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Posts posted by demon
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gages
in The Garage
I think that there is some differences in the wiring from the digital to the analog gauges. There have been a couple people on here that have fit the 01 and up digital dash on the 99 and 00 FI bikes. Elixxir posted up what you need to do for the digital to fit the 99 and 00. Just kinda work it backward to fit the analog to the digital bike.
It's not a plug and play deal. Some wiring must be redone.
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I had the same problem till I bought a corbin GF/L with the backrest. The passenger portion on the corbin doesn't tilt down as much and she stays planted better. Northman had some type of removeable fabric on his rear seat for his little woman at NEXXT. It's an antislip type thing. Looked like it would work really good. You might try and get in contact with him about this fabric if you don't want to ante up and buy a new seat.
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You put a new chain on that thing yet???
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If you don't want to cut and weld on your lower radiator mount, make a spacer and place it between your mount and the engine. A longer bolt will be necessary as well as slightly bending the mount itself. That's what my bike had on it to move the radiator foreward about 1/2"
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I put Ohlins front springs on w/heavier oil
that thing must ride like a truck with thicker oil in it. The compression damping is already too stiff with the stock weight oil in it.
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I'm fixing to spoon on a Pirelli Diablo Strada rear and a regular Diablo front. Should be similar to the M1/Z6 combo.
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I would be interested in the integrated rear setup for the 99 and up birds in smoke. A set of clear front turn lenses in smoke as well. Let us know when they give you the word.
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Yes, I have a question John. I'm gonna order some front lenses from you in the next couple weeks. Does Clear Alternatives offer an integrated rear turn signal assembly for the 99 and up birds???
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The front sprocket is the easiest to change and it yields the most gearing per tooth. If you reduce the front sprocket by 1 tooth, it is basically the same as going 3 up in the rear and doesn't require a longer chain.
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OEM is 17 front and 45 rear.
I've got about 8K on the rear sprocket. It would probably go another 3 or 4 K, but my chain won't.
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I've got the 1 down and 1 up sprocket combo and really like it for local riding. Origionally put it on for drag racing - with this gearing you are at the top of third going through the lights, not halfway through. Just got home from NEXXT and my chain is about shot along with my rear sprocket. I was buzzing along at 5K to 5.5K and had to stop for fuel at about every 170 miles. Stock gearing is going back on. I like the grunt, but the long highway miles sucks when you are geared down.
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Naa, I took it off a while back. Didn't like having to try and stash the end of the strap so as it wouldn't blow around in the breeze. Still have the adjustable link on her though. I'm gonna run the strip for a little fun. The way mine's geared, at stock or raised height, it'll be a wheelie fest.
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Unless you're lowered and strapped, any old tire will work. You'll probably wheelie before you spin the rear up at stock ride height.
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Could you use your stock lenght chain?
Yes you could. It would be like putting an 18 tooth on the front with the stock rear. All that you're actually adding in total teeth is one. I've run my stock front sprocket with a 46 rear and it worked for me. The 16/46 puts my rear axle at the stock location.
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You might try turning the knob on the left side of the bike near the frame and see if it does anything. It's your idle adjustment. Mine would start up just fine and then one day it would do like you are describing. The cable came loose from the upper end and the idle adjustment backed off. 5 minutes and I fixed it, no problems so far.
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Shit, mine runs rich with just slipons. Everything else is factory except the Pair valves have been removed.
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I've went 1 down in the front as well as 1 up in the rear. I can feel the increase in acceleration over stock pretty well.
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thought the throwback thing was good Tim, really - I did.
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there is a rally coming up in a couple weeks :roll: but it might be too short notice for you. Next June is the closest one to us up on the other side of Knoxville. Just don't be a stranger like you did before.
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Zee, I don't care what you ride, I'll ride with ya any day. Now that you're a non XXer, feel free to be chastized at will. :wink:
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:hitwithstick:
Damn Zee, you must have gotten one of the special ones. The Akra I took off of mine was interfering with the same lower radiator mounts that Tim was talking about. Mine had a longer bolt and a spacer that held the radiator out about a 1/2"
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You actually get more power from a single sided exhaust system. It doesn't have the sharp bend to split it into two pipes and is straighter. There are brackets that can be purchased to keep the centerstand with the 4-1 exhaust as well. See the for sale section.
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If you look at most race bikes, they have cable clutches. Hydraulic clutches lack the "feel" of normal cable clutches. The main reason for using a hydraulic clutch is for the lack of rider adjustment. A cable clutch has to be adjusted to account for wear of the plates. The hydraulic clutch takes up this slack with no need for adjustment.
Cool/Cold Weather gear
in The Garage
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