demon
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Posts posted by demon
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don't expect everyone to put you on a pedistal with less than 10 posts to your name.
Especially with your "extra fast bone stock" 02 XX. I've seen 200 on my 99
, it's just that I'm geared down and was probably only doing 170 actual. I've got into my little top end dances with other bikes like many others on here, and I've got to say a Busa or a 12 will stomp a stock XX at 170mph+ speeds. Slap a turbo on it and then it's a possibility, or invest in the engine work that Chris has done to his to hit some high HP numbers. Any way you go, you'll not do it stock and it'll cost you. I'd like to see you line up against someone on here at the strip. There's some pretty quick people on here that will probably hand your ass back to you. -
You'll need the collars as it's a spacer for the bolts. There is also a tension washer in there too. The tension washer keeps pressure on the centerstand so it doesn't rattle from side to side. My bike didn't have a centerstand when I got it and got the attaching hardware(spacers, bolts, and tension washer) from the stealer and purchased the centerstand and springs from a member on here.
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I know you can put the newer style gauges on the older FI bikes with some wiring and a sensor swap. Don't see why you can't do it the other way. You'd want to get the gauges off of a 99 or newer injected bike though.
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I'd space it out if it's closer than 1/4". Headers put out a lot of heat when you have it at WOT. You won't have any cooling issues as the water passes through fairly quickly, but a little clearance is a good thing when it comes to exhaust heat.
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Yea, you have to bleed the air out of it. I usually put the tube in and don't tighten it up all the way. Release the spring in the tube section allowing it to push grease/air toward top. Pump gun till you feel some resistance and then tighten the tube section. The air in the line will naturally be pushed out.
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Other than the height issues listed above, it's the best and cheapest mod you can do to your bird. I believe it raises the rear of the bike about an inch and quickens the steering considerably. With the corbin on my bike and it raised up, I have a hard time pushing it around while seated. I can live with that for the gains.
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If you go down 2 inches, the bike will probably sit straight up. I'd try it and see. If you keep the centerstand on it you could probably put it up on that, though it is a little harder to get it up on it with it lowered.
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Oh, another thing, I had to cut and weld my kickstand for the lowered height. I cut about 1 3/4" off of it and welded the foot back on. When it's raised up I have an aluminum spacer that I bolt to the foot raising it back up to stock kickstand length. You won't want to ride it much on the street lowered though. I lowered my front forks in the tripples an inch and took the rest up with the strap. When it's strapped down another couple inches, the ride will suffer.
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I've had the wife on the back with me with it lowered 3" in the rear. It didn't have any problems but I was cautious because of the limited ground clearance.
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I got mine through Schnitzracing.com and it cost right at $125 if I remember correctly. It used to be able to SLAM the rear, but I cut some of the threaded rod off to keep the centerstand (rod would hit the center bar of the centerstand and not let it come up). I didn't used to keep my centerstand on the bike and put it on when working on it, but I finally decided to keep it on the bike. With straps on the front and this link, I believe that I could get mine down to about 3" off the ground. I used to have a pic of a baseball not being able to fit between the ground and the exhaust, but have lost it.
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Speedlink makes a hellofa lowering link. You can raise and lower in no time flat. The good thing about this one is that you can lower it for the strip and then raise it back up higher than stock for the twisties
Did I say that I love mine?[attachmentid=891]
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You can still use the stock length chain for the -1 in front. You'll probably have to get a longer chain for the +3 in the rear. You can always do like me, -1 in front and +1 in back, and the adjustment marks are just like stock
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trick is to raise the rear and then fine tune it with the front. I wouldn't recommend lowering the front more than 1/4" if you've done the 6mm raise on the shock at the rear.
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You might want to check the tightness of your chain as well. A loose chain will cause the bike to lurch at slow speed.
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It actually works reasonbly well. Air flow hits me in the shoulder area and I think in spite of the size, it flows with the bike. My alternative would be the stock shield and the laminar lip for higher speed riding, but I don't care for the look of the lip.
How friggin tall are you?
My personal preference is for the stock screen. It might not protect you from the wind as well, but it looks a lot better to me. I've had a Cheetah screen with a turn-up on the upper edge and the wind hit me in the neck area causing my head to buffet. I've had a Sportech chrome screen and liked it till I broke it. Now I've got a stock 97 screen and it fits the looks of the bike the best to me and the wind hits me mid chest with no helmet buffeting.
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You could probably squeeze a 200 on it, but your handling will suffer. You'll be squeezing the beads of the tire together more than they were designed to. Doing that will make the curve from the center of the tire to the edge more round and you'll actually have less rubber on the road when leaned over.
Oh, and to add that you might not have the cleareance to run a 200 with the centerstand. You'd have to check your clearance to the chain as well. A 190 is getting close to the chain, a 200 will be that much closer.
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A 200 is WAY too wide for the 5.5 inch wheel. You can run a 190 but it might feel more sluggish.
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Most aftermarket shocks offer low speed compression unless it states that it has both low and high speed. The high speed compression is usually not adjustable.
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I'm pretty sure Peter (BirdieXX) runs the Bos slipons. I've seen and heard them and they look to be high quality pieces.
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one word of advise concerning the 4 stroke trimmers.
Keep them level.
Don't tilt them over 90 degrees or so to do any edging work. The oil pickup will suck air and then, well you know what'll happen. We went through 4 of them at work before anyone figured out what was happening.
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Personally, I wax my wheels. It keeps the oxidation down to tolerable levels. I usually only hit my wheels with aluminum polish twice a year. If you don't wax polished aluminum and ride it in the rain, the water spots will make little oxidized places where the water dries on them.
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It's more expensive, but get an adjustable dogbone and you can adjust rear ride height up or down to whatever you want. I guestimate that I am running about 8-9mm of "shim" to mine. I put 6mm of shims above the shock before I got it and it sits higher in the rear now. On the centerstand, my tire is approx 1/8" above the asphalt. I also have raised my forks 1/4" in the trees. Needless to say, my bike don't like high speed sweepers, but a twist of the wrench brings things back down to more "sane" geometry in about 3 minutes.
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Actually, if you remove some packing it will become quieter. Looser packing will absorb more of the sound. Tight packing, shut up you perverts, will let the sound go through. If you pack your can as tight as you can, it'll get loud.
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It would be better to do it all at once. If you've never done it before, a slab that size isn't a good place to start. Get professional help.
Spanners
in The Garage
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