R1000

I’d clean the axle and put a thin layer of grease on it before assembly. I’d also put some grease on wheel bearings sides, hoping that some will work into bearings (which is doesn't..) and at least protect them with a barrier. I’d also put grease on the axle threads, or the axle nut. Don’t forget to put grease or alumin paste on both tensioner screws; they can seize and break threads in the swing arm if they’re not clean and greased. Finally, adjust the chain tension and secure the axle nut by 95 Nm. Check that there is no lash on tensioner screws after securing the rear axle.

I would not replace the master link if it still moves as freely as any other link. I would follow it up though and make sure it stays OK. The master link side plate might even locate correctly when you have used the bike some.

I was a little to quick saying the clamp fitted perfectly... I double-checked the tendency for stiction. I loosened the clamp and pushed down the fork and observed the return rate, and could also see a slight overshoot at return w/o clamp. When the clamp was fully tightened, the overshoot disappeared, showing that it caused some stiction. After grinding the clamp a few tenths of a millimeter the fork now moves as easy as without clamp. I didn’t mind doing this and is quite happy with the result. If you are not prepared to fine adjust the Superbrace, you should look for an adjustable clamp. As pointed out by someone in another post, just putting the clamp on and not check for stiction, may mean that the fork doesn’t move freely. Low pixel mobile pic in the garage below. It looks good on the bike and the stork legs are tamed.

It is the http://www.superbrace.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2262 The piece I got looks a lot better since it is black and the engraving is more discrete and on front of clamp instead on top. The finish is excellent.

Got the clamp this week by UPS from cbrbear. It was new in an unbroken package and it fitted perfectly. I thought it was to be the basic aluminum surface but it is a black anodized clamp so I'm real happy:-)

Good point regarding the rear suspension

Even if you don't push the front end very hard the brace is reported by quite a few birdies to stabilize the fork noticeably on bad roads, and we have a lot of them here in this poor country In case the incoming Superbrace will cause any stiction, I'll make it adjustable.

Change once a year if you ride a lot or just want to keep the suspension in good condition. Two-year intervals will also work, but then you will use a fork that has contaminations affecting the function of fork valves. There will always be someone saying I havn't needed to change in e.g 5 years. Those guys should try a bike with a new maintained fork...It is like changing the brake disks and pads on a car, you dont relalize how bad it has been until you put in new parts.

I would replace #18 as you say and also #10 if the bushing is worn. #25 is an external bearing that makes the left caliper turnable for the Dual Brake System function. This can be replaced anytime without removing the fork legs. On my bird -97 I only changed the sealings and the fork is just fine. The springs were already replaced by a prevoius owner. You may consider changing springs if it still has the soft stock ones. Then there is also a possibility to revalve the fork if you want to further improve the chassi.

In case the cars battery is not totally down I would not hesitate at all to give it some extra juice from the bike as a start aid. The car will drain the bikes battery quite fast if it doesn't start immediately, so you will only try this once and quick. There is also no significant difference in supporting a bike with low battery by a car, than by a car to car. This will work for situations were the receiving vehicle just has a low battery and no real faults like a shortened battery or other shortened circuits.

Really ? Even if you do a lot of wheelies, no more than two, or maximum three sets should be worn out on that distance .

What brand is it, is it for he Blackbird, and what do you want for it? I am interested..... It will be shipped to me tomorrow, sorry Helvet I'll report my findings later.

One graduation is the distance between two marks.

OK thanks, that makes sense. A worn out stock shock will not do any good to the bird. I was wrong referring to the 042-shock, I have the version with external reservoir for compression adjustment, which is the 041-shock. I was in the same situation as you, the stock Showa shock was in bad condition and the new Hyperpro 041 did a huge difference. The only thing to watch up for now is to have a good rear tire and the bike will be rock steady. Sometimes I feel minor movements from the bikes rear but this is only when the tires (BT021) are pushed when cold.

Does the new 3D-shock handles significantly better than a brand new 042-shock or is it basically better in the sense it has a generic style that will fit more bikes? Perhaps your old shock needed service. I believed that with a new top of the line 042-shock the speed is set by head and skills and is not limited by the shocks performance.

This is a common problem on heavy motorcycles. The problem increases if the front brake is used hard, especially into corners and/or the tire pressure is low. When the handling is affected by the cupping it is time to replace the tire..

I've set my bike, which runs great on roads and track, to 30 mm rider sag rear and 40 mm rider sag front. With the stock rear shock I adjusted the rear shock rebound to 1 turn out. The rear shall return to top within a second after being compressed and it should not over-shoot. Setting sags also involves having the right springs for your weight; you can see how that combines in the picture below. The screenshot is from an Ohlins manual. On a stock bird you can only adjust the preload and the rebound damping on the rear. The front preload can be adjusted by changing the length of spring spacers. Different oil levels and different oil viscosity can tune the compression damping and the rebound damping. If your bike is stock and feels a bit firm it is probably just to reduce some preload on the rear spring and set the rear rebound 1 turn out CCW from bottom. You will find more info and others opinions on this by using the search function.

It is quite important to relax the arms and wrists to be able to drive smoothly and controlled. Try to support the body weight by the foots-legs-knees and lower back and belly muscles instead of arms and wrists. If one comes into a touchy situation and grab the bars instead of just doing the necessary counter-steer commands things can go terribly wrong.

Hi Franz, thanks for the info, I'll go for PR II next time. The BT021's handles very well though and is pleasure to ride, very linear in curves. I have now noticed that the front tyre seems to wear faster than the rear on my BT021's, and it should normally be the opposite since the bike has a lot of power and often is driven hard. BTW, I'm very pleased with the Hyperpro 042 rear shock that I bought from your company :-) It works great and is so easy to adjust when needed.

Aah, I see. Yes the BT021 are very cheap, like 65% of the price for Michelin so it is a factor to consider. I believe your idea of concept is sound, to achieve both grip and economy. I'm not really updated on Bridgestones tyre program but you could look for information about the BT002 front tyre that have minimum thread and is much more track oriented. I wouldn't fear mixing brands though, like using ultra grippy Metzeler Racetech front and BT021 rear. If one can have the front planted under any situation and just get a little rear slide at occasions one will still do fine compared to loose the front.

I have used them used them for about 6000 km's now and both the rear and front appears to be about half-worn. They will do a full 7 month season for my daily commuting including two track days. According to a recent test in the Swedish Bike magazine the BT021 front will last almost 50% longer than the Z6 and the BT021 rear will go 70% of the distance vs. Z6 rear. FWIW; How do the 021's feel/grip in the real tight turns (feelers and fairing scraping)?? A lot of my weekend riding is in the mountains of western North Carolina - been more than happy with the grip the Z6 provides there.. So, if the 021 will grip as well as the Z6 in ultra-tight twistie conditions, I may be sold! thx! I have got the impression that Z6's are slightly grippier than BT021 even though none of them have failed to me. I've got minor slides both on Z6 and BT021. Z6's rubber compound is reported to be almost as soft as the better sport tyres. BT021 handles better in turns to me but I can't say they grip better than Z6.

These were the scoring that was published in the Swedish Magazine. Dry 1. Z6 2.Pirelli Diablo Strada 3. Bridgestone BT021 4. Michelin PR II (it got the highest score of all tyres for grip on straight and curves but was #4 due to a low score for being shimmy) 5. Continental Road Attack Wet 1. Michelin PR II 2. The Pirelli 3. Z6 4. Continental 5. BT021 Wear 1. Michelin 2. Z6 3. Pirelli 4. Bridgestone 5. Continental I will test a set of PR II next time on the bird.

I have used them used them for about 6000 km's now and both the rear and front appears to be about half-worn. They will do a full 7 month season for my daily commuting including two track days. According to a recent test in the Swedish Bike magazine the BT021 front will last almost 50% longer than the Z6 and the BT021 rear will go 70% of the distance vs. Z6 rear.

I think it is a friend of Little Richard Aah, she is a young he

I've had a CBR 1000 F before and sometimes help people asking tech questions for the CBR 1000 F. There is currently one question I've not been able to sort out and I wonder if anyone here can answer. Most bikes use R/R units that have three connections only to the stator. The CBR 1000 F alternator has a 4th winding that is connected to the R/R. How does the 4th wiring operate. I guees it is used to magnetize the alternator but does it really have to be connected to the R/R? Will it work with a normal R/R if the 4th winding is left unconnected or can it be connected to fixed 12 volt over the ignition switch?