R1000

Anyone having experience in these slipons?

Nice hugger, is it real carbon or an imitation (there are nice imitations around). Where can it be ordered?

53 have read this post, and no one knows if the -97 should have stock catalythic mufflers?

On my Bird -97 there is a sticker HECS (Honda Emission Catalythic System) on the frame just below the saddle. Was there catalytic mufflers already in that year or does it have any other meaning? I thought that came in -99, when EFI engines came.

The increased fuel consumption could very well be the result of inspired driving with the "new" exhaust. There should also be a lot of stuff blowing out of the system after the drilling.

New front gear ordered, I'll report my findings later. The old commuter, CBR 1000 F -92, pulled very well from 3 k to 10+k, I expect this bike to do the same. One reason for the below 7 k weakness on 5th and 6th gear, is the 300 km/h gearing on the Blackbird (the old bike was geared for 260 km/h). A 16 instead of 17 teeth front gear will certainly help to some degree. 16 teeth front installed and tested today. This is the perfect gearing to me, the bike is more responsive and the bad over-gear feeling on 6th disappeared . The rev is now exactly as I'm used to from the GSX R1000 -03, which is fine when changin between bikes. Some of the shifting roughness also disappeared. This is a highly recommended change for those who have more interest in overall performance (except fuel consumtion) than absolute top speed, and the top speed will only go down by 6 %, theoretically. I guess the top speed doesn't suffer that much since the engine will reach full rpm better.

Anyone adjusting the two engine balance shafts now and then to keep the engine balance optimized? I saw a sale advertisment on ebay, where a guy described he was doing this frequently to always have the engine perfectly balanced. Is it meanful or just a waist of time?

New front gear ordered, I'll report my findings later. The old commuter, CBR 1000 F -92, pulled very well from 3 k to 10+k, I expect this bike to do the same. One reason for the below 7 k weakness on 5th and 6th gear, is the 300 km/h gearing on the Blackbird (the old bike was geared for 260 km/h). A 16 instead of 17 teeth front gear will certainly help to some degree.

Thanks, that means it could be a good move, it will only increase the rpm by about 6 %, so I don't think it will be annoying. I stepped down from 17 to 16 on the GSX R1000, which feels real good. I'll order a 16 front to the Bird, which I believe will be fine for me. The bike feels to weak in midrange on 5th and 6th gear. Maybe the carb needles have to be raised to cure this midrange weakness. The bike is incredibly strong up in rpm and runs well all the way down in rpm so it seems to be a tuning question. When full throttle is given at 5 k on 6th, I can hear the throaty air sound, but the real response is missing.

Any opinions for changed geraing like going down to 16 or 15 front? The top speed is more than normally needed, and it could be nice to have more torque on the rear wheel on all gears.

Hmmm, that looks much better Its very expensive though. Full Yoshi systems w SS-downpipes and muffler are sold new for 670 USD, I would buy one directly if I knew it has similar performance.

Thanks a lot for the info, it seems to me like the stock system performs very well, and that a full system doesn't improve much.

as we concluded in other topics, the 4-2-2 looks better and the 4-2-1 gives more power! mind me if i'm wrong... Yeah I know the 4-2-1 system will give more power, anyone got figures/dyno curves?

Thanks, you meen its normal and nothing to worry about? Yep that's what he means, heavy duty cluch makes some noise normal and not a problem. If it goes away when you pull in the clutch just ride the bitch. Thanks, I'm new to this bike and have a lot to learn

Will there be a great difference changing the stock exhaust to a 4-2-1 system? Any one got the bike dynoed before/after change of exhaust system? The bike feels somewhat lame on higher gears below 6 krpm as is, then pulls very good at higher rpm's. Could that be cured by e.g lift the needles a few mm's or are there any other tricks to do? Ihave a -97, carb version.

Thanks, you meen its normal and nothing to worry about?

Hi, I'm new to this forum and have recently bought a Blackbird -97 here in Sweden. The bike runs real well and appears to be in good condition. When it's cold there is a noticeable rattle, which disappears as soon as the clutch lever is pulled in. Same phenomena when it's warm, but then there is almost no rattle when the clutch lever is out. Is this typical for a CCT problem or something with the clutch basket or even maybe quite normal?