R1000

To show time of day .... maybe you could get a miniature cuckoo clock for the XX? nbl Kewl, that would for sure increase the chance to get layed

To show time of day

that was quick, and good information for the group since the bars that fit are now very pricey. But, can I say, lose the unleaded sticker........ You are absolutely right, if anything, it should read "Race Fuel"

VFR -98 bars and adjustable preloaders is on. I don’t really recommend using the -98 bars, it was several hours of extra work grinding them from 41 to 43 mm. For those having the time and patience, and get them for a good price, it could be worth it though. I got the bars in exchange for a set of front springs.

I don't think a hone will be happy with aluminum. It will clog the stone. the sanding option will take some time, but it is winter out there, right? Thanks, I beleive you are right. Yes it should be snow and cold here, but the sun is shining on grean ground and it is about zero deg C.

I think so but am not sure, thats why I asked. There is a pair posted to me which i got cheap, I'll try and see. They look rised and reared to me and the guy said they will fit except that they are to tight, and yes, they need repaint...

Any one know if VFR 800 -98 bars are the same as newer VFR bars that can be bolted on Birds? I believe the -98 bars are made for 41 mm fork tubes instead of 43 mm, but is there any other difference? If not, it cant be difficult to enlarge the -98 bars 2 mm's with a fexible grinder or a brake cylinder honing tool. Opinions?

The guy who reworked my forks (Dan Kyle) recommended 25-30mm rear, 35-40mm front. Of course, whether the static sag (without rider) is correct will make a big difference (the combination will determine whether you have the correct spring rate). IIRC - rear should be 0-5mm without rider. I didn't ask about static sag on the forks since I was having him respring them for my weight anyway. FWIW - the fact that you have it shimmed will make no difference in what the sag should be. Thanks for the reply ! Then I go for 30 rear and 40 front to stay within Kyle's recommendation. That will give an even sharper steering response compared to 35 mm's front, even if is a small difference. The front springs are extra long and progressive so there is no risk for bottoming anyway. Yes, I know (or believe) that the rider sag value is there to keep the front and rear suspension in their right working positions and not to tilt the bike, and the static sag is more or less just a reference to confirm spring rate vs rider weight.

I guess this subject has been up earlier, but is interested in your recent opinions. What rider sag rear and front have you found to work best on a Bird having a 6 mm shim rear? I'm planning to use 30 mm's rider sag rear and 35 mm's rider sag front, any opinions for better values?

Hi Michael I am almost sure that the springs you are running are not WP's. For more read here. Last week I was in Paris and one of my colleagues from Sweden was telling me that you have unusually hot winter. Enjoy your ride while it lasts... The springs have a printed mark WP so they should definitely be WP-springs. I don’t know if they are replacement springs to the Bird or for another bike though, but the work very well for me.

The V+M is (was) V+M racing, A UK company who specialised in ripping loads of power from the XX. V+M produced 50 of these bikes for Honda Europe to celebrate Honda's 50th anniversary. The bike was a standard bird with a 1198 big bore kit, forged pistons, VMR cams, gas flowed head, modified carbs, corillo con rods, re mapped, adjustable ignition system, new oil cooler, Acrappybitch exhaust, Penske rear shock, LSL rear sets and steering damper and a few other little bits. The bike produced 200 bhp at the crank in standard form (about 175 at the wheel), I've had a modified injection system fitted which added a few HP and makes it a bit more user friendly. and is now pushing out 181bhp at the rear wheel and 108 foot pounds of torque... not bad for an XX I've replaced a lot of the original gear and fitted Ohlins front and rear which makes a big difference to the handling. Sounds like you're doing a lot to yours, would be nice to see the figures when it's finished. Thanks for the very interesting info ! Your have got yourself the real thing I cant imagine getting your figures but will certainly lift the power and torque quite a bit from stock. The head is on porting, a full yoshi was ordered today. A new fully adjustable Hyperpro rear shock is on since last weekend and the fork is mantained and has WP-suspensions parts. I'll report the coming results. Do you have the data for the VMR cams and springs?

What does the V+M stand for, how is the engine composed and what is the power/torque?

.......... for anyone that has fitted one - are bike muuflers/silencers "straight through" ? Yes, you can normally see through an aftermarket bike race muffler. However, there are often perforated small diameter inner tubes, and damping material between that and the outer shell. Often there are some arrangement at the end of pipe to reduce the worst sound pulses. Take a look inte the rear of an aftermarket can and you see what I mean. well aafter market car mufflers are the same, the are straight through with the perforated mesh in the inner tube, i gota tell you guys, if i can find something that looks ok and sounds ok then i will fit it, i don't care about for car or bike, if it looks ok then why not.............big difference is 40 bucks as opposed to 400 I agree, bike mufflers are very overpriced, perhaps because the market is quite small, hope you find a nice car muffler and post some pics.

.......... for anyone that has fitted one - are bike muuflers/silencers "straight through" ? Yes, you can normally see through an aftermarket bike race muffler. However, there are often perforated small diameter inner tubes, and damping material between that and the outer shell. Often there are some arrangement at the end of pipe to reduce the worst sound pulses. Take a look inte the rear of an aftermarket can and you see what I mean.

Well done What modifications has been done ?

I'm in the progress to seriously increase the power on my Bird. The chassi is great now with Hyperpro 041 rear shock and WP suspension springs in fork. A replacement head is on porting and there will be new cams and a full Yoshi race system. I wonder what power figures owners with tuned bikes have.

Good for you! I am glad you like them, I do sell them a lot.... Is that you Michael? (Frank here....) Hi Frank ! Yes it is me, thanks for your great assistance! I couldn't have dream of getting the chance to make a testride in December in Sweden, the weather is really great here. Today its sunny and warm so there will be another trip right now Cheers !

I got the chance to ride a couple of hours today and test the new installed Hyperpro shock. I'm very happy, the nervous rear is not there any more and it eats bumps very effectively. The old stock shock was out so I can't say how it compares to a new stock shock, but the Hyperpro is fully adjustable which is an advantage and it is a far more advanced solution. I will definitely recommend it to anyone. I also was to replace the fork springs to Hyperpro progressives I have, but didn't do that since there was already extra long WP-suspension progressives in the fork. I just cleaned the fork and put new 7,5W oil into it. I don’t mind the extra stroke that the longer springs provides I also shimmed the rear shock 6 mm's and found the steering to be much more responsive as many others has reported. Total impression is great, now I hope for warm and dry roads since the Bird really asks to be driven hard.

Is that with the WP springs or the stockers - my stockers are I think well due for replacement although it took putting a CBR900RR shock and 6mm shim to confirm it, she certainly seems to be harsher and dive more now that I have done the rear, I can go quicker in the sweepers but seem to be slower through low speed corners :icon_think: Do you mean it is the increased dive at hard braking into slow corners that now upsets the chassie and limits the corner speed? In that case you have to soft springs.

I may be wrong but here goes........... In effect, the area taken up by the typical 200mm spacer is uncompressible. Now with these new, full-length fork springs installed, with enough force, can the fork actually compress more than it could with stock spring/spacers? If so, you will want to keep a close eye on fork oil. As we know, fork oil is also uncompressible and if in fact the fork can now compress more, the old fork oil level may be way too high. I would hate to see you jam on the brakes and force uncompressable fork oil past your new fork seals. Just a thought. Good point, I'll keep an eye on this. I have never seen a stock Bird spacer, but guess it is thin walled and takes less volume than the close spring wounds at end, so that will reduce the air volume even more.

Is that with the WP springs or the stockers - my stockers are I think well due for replacement although it took putting a CBR900RR shock and 6mm shim to confirm it, she certainly seems to be harsher and dive more now that I have done the rear, I can go quicker in the sweepers but seem to be slower through low speed corners :icon_think: That is with the WP springs and the stock rear shock. I've not tested them with the new rear shock and 6 mm shim rear. Will do that tomorrow if weather allows, we have winter here but forcast is dry and plus degrees tomorrow.

Could be White Power springs :icon_think: I think you are right, found this article which shows WP provides long springs that eliminates the spacer. http://www.wpsuspension.biz/index.php http://www.k11og.org/tech/k11tech_springs_install.shtml I have been surpriced that the front is never harsh as reported to be on many Blackbirds, still it dont dive much or feels unstable.

How do you like the 41? I'm going to be getting one after Christmas... Also, did you get the progressive, or straight weight spring on it? Mike I haven’t got the possibility to test ride the bike yet since the fork is still open due to the front spring confusion. I'll probably test ride on Sunday, then I'll report back. I got a progressive rear spring. The adjustability is great, good range on all adjustments and good access to preload, comp and rebound adjustments on the bike. I’ve put a 6 mm shim on top of the shock clamp to.

I've changed the rear shock to a Hyperpro type 041. It feels great to have a new shock, which also is fully adjustable. When I opened the fork to put in Hyperpro progressive springs, I was surprised to find springs that are 200 mm longer than stock springs There was no spacer of course. The springs are marked WP30 (or 36 or 38), so I guess they are Wilbers springs. Any one having expedience in this type of mod and can say if it’s good or bad?. The springs are either progressive or 2-step. One third of the springs have much tighter wounds. I have not encountered any problems with the front and am not sure if I should put in the shorter Hyperpro springs at all since the fork has already been modified. Any comments are appreciated, especially from you who have knowledge in 200 mm's longer fork springs.

Head for carb'd Bird for sale?