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JoWhee

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Posts posted by JoWhee

  1. What started out as a simple project now loooks like it is going to be a bigger project.

    I was just going to remove some tile, then prep and paint the wall. Turns out there wasn't any wall behind the tile due to the toilet leaking. Everything is moist. It is so wet that the metal lathe has rusted away.

    Due to the hideous color of the bathroom, I am considering changing the toilet. But I need a wall mount toilet like the one in the picture. Any suggestions where to get a decent price on a toilet like this?

    besides the existing plumbing why not go with a floor mounted job?

  2. My wife, in her wisdom, tried to keep a rug stationary on wood laminated floors using a thick, silver, sticky carpet tape. What's the best method to remove that tape please? thanks

    if it's the glue part, try and find some "solvo-plast" some pharmacies have it. I have heard that rubbing alcohol will work also but I've never tried it.

  3. I know it's probably too late now but you must rent a power scraper for an easier job don't ask me how I know.

    no it's still not too late, we've had a few guys quit at work so I havent' had time to rip up the rest, with the overtime I'm pulling down I may just hire someone to do the whole place.

    I'm going to look into the power scraper.

  4. So I'm doing searches on fixing leaking PVC (abs) joints. It seems the main common final solution is to cut the joint and start again. I'm fairly sure they don't mean to cut the pipe since you'd have a shorter pipe and putting two joints to fix one doesn't seem feasable.

    So a few of the articles (actually all of them) say to cut the joint and it's not that hard. Fine. Doesn't tell you how to cut the damn thing. How the hell do I cut off a 90 or a T without shortening the pipe? Because if it's a T, it'll end up making 6 joints out of the orignal 3 as I'd have to shorten all three connections blah blah blah.

    I've never tried this I usually just rip it out and go with copper, but have you thought about trying a dremel tool? or a small rotary cutting tool of choice.

    Is it pvc (probably cpvc) for supply lines or ABS (black for drainage) lines? I saw an article on here somewhere about repairing abs on the XX. If it's a drain line that won't have much pressure I bet you could "patch" the leak in the same way, with using some ground up abs into a powder and abs cement.

  5. Background...New units on a new construction threes years old. The upstairs unit quit working a couple weeks ago. I called and the repairman replaced a switch in the outside unit that looked burnt. Three days after he came out, the unit for the main floor did the same thing. The inside unit and blower would run but the compressor wouldnt kick on. I took the cover off the corner of the compressor and found what looked like the same type switch burnt. The first one was replaced under warranty, but we had to pay for service call and diagnostics. I replaced the second one myself.

    What could be causing these switchs to both go out within ten days of each other?

    Looks like the relay isn't strong enough for the current draw the compressor needs. This could be caused by either your compressor is getting older (3 years it doesn't seem likely but you never know), and it's starting to pull more current, you could check this out with an amprobe and compare it to the tag on the equipment, but your service man should have already done that.

    Another possibility is it's a cheapo made in china switch that is only designed to last for the duration of the warranty, if you can buy a heavier duty relay, or just buy 2 other cheapies and replace them yourself every 3 years.

    Oh ya.. your compressor may be cupped :icon_confused:

  6. Ya but then you're not a handy man, you're a "pay up cocksucker" man. :icon_biggrin:

    BTW I found a great way to get the last little bits off the floor, use a vaccuum cleaner with a beater brush attachment.

  7. Ok so I've got wall to wall ugly carpet at my place, it's going..

    It seems to be the stuff with the foam backer on it and glued to the floor. I've been cutting with a utility knife it to remove the "carpet" layer then using a square shovel, and a putty knife to get up the underpad. This is working pretty well as I don't mind a little elbow grease.

    But, is there an easier way?

    post-348-1147901334_thumb.jpg

  8. Next time just leave the water on, hook up the hose, and let it flow until it runs clear, the sludge builds up in the bottom of the tank, so no real need to drain it completely, unless you are winterizing the tank. I do this about once every 3 months. You may want to do it more or less depending on how hard the water is in your area.

  9. I haven't been to see the trouble yet but I'll explain what's happening, this is at a friends house, which I am now refering to as "green acres"

    Circuits breakers are opening about 7-8 times a day. The landlord said he will send out an electrician, she's been waiting over a week, I was up looking at her place a couple of weeks ago and the electrical work isn't that great, I found many small things wrong, if you like not code.. mostly electrical tie in boxes not closed, breakers missing from the pannel without a proper cap (you konw those little plastic jobies) noting critical, just not good work., and it's probably the same guy going to show up to trouble shoot the problem.

    I'm a level 2 electrical apprentice (journeyman?) so I know about being safe etc... I know there are a few licensed electricians here so I'd like to pick your brains.

    There is water infintraton when it rains, so I'm going to check the plugs, and boxes for moisture, as well as any junction boxes I findas well as the pannel itself, but it hasn't rained in a few days.

    Sometimes when she runs 2 appliances it will blow the breakers, even if they are on different circuits, could this be a load balancing problem?

    When she comes home there are circuits blown, when in theory the only thing operating bigger than a clock radio when she's not there is the fridge (less than a year old).

    The house is cupped...

    Ok so here's what I'm looking for:

    humidity, load balancing, short circuits (I may just bring a megger and test everything), I'll be looking for scorch marks on the receptacles.

    Anything else?

  10. not sure I know the exact part you're looking for BUT!

    www.helmetshop.com is where I bought my symax plus the whole parts kit, I've not opened it but it has the side plates, gears, plastic nuts, spacers etc. I think it was $12 or something like that.

    Thanks! that's the ticket!

  11. Does anyone know where to get parts for an HJC symax?

    The Plastic, non structural spacer in my passenger helmet broke, it's a little plastic/nylon spacer and gear for the ratcheting and it keeps the flip up face guard in position.

    I've contaced HJC and they say to contact my local bike shop. 2 local bike shops say to contact HJC. Of course the thing is 3 months out of warrenty.

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