Scated

"Bad", "Hot", "Cool", "Phat" we're a KFC commercial and dating ourselves at the same time. Oh, I forgot "rad" and "awesome"! You're 16 years my senior and I don't need to be getting my ass kicked by a senior citizen. Come on down to SA and we can play. Are there twisties in Bixby? I thought one could see the curvature of the earth out there?

That's why I love this site! Great info. So if I do the valves upfront for compression and rebound adjustability is there a way to make it remotely adjustable? The JAWS caps? I know about unsprung wieght but I hadn't considered it a factor in the handling. Does it just make for easier braking and stronger acceleration off the corner or is there a difference in turn in and stability? Ok, you spoke about the clip ons just above the notch. I'm confused? Like I said I pushed the tubes up through the top clamp and it's 43mm from the top of the tube to the deck of the top clamp. I have helibars and they are sitting flush against the triple clamp. Is there an advantage to pulling the helbars up on the fork tubes so they set above the triple clamp? The forks, looks like I have two options: 1)Traxion cartridge rebuild or 2)Springs, valves, oil weight, and rebuild. Which one would you do and what is the price difference? Thanks again!

Here's what I like to do and for those of you coming to TEXXT here's what you have to look forward to...

Ok, I'm really fighting the urge to sell the bird, like many of you, and buying a C-14. While it's an interesting idea I don't like the idea of gaining 100 pounds, keeping the same horsepower, and the truth is I wouldn't do it justice. A long day for me is 200 miles in the hill country around San Antonio. So... since most of my time is spent in the quest to find anywhere from one to three of the sisters, 337..., I think I probably just need to work on improving my skill on the bike and the bikes ability to excell at what I like doing. I've read the posts so I know that folks change the springs in the forks, the weight of the oil, and possibly the valves up front. In the rear it's the Ohlins, the Penske, or the Wilburs. I do most of my own maintenance with the help of the local TSBA chapter but I don't want to go to the extrememe of a new front end. I ride an '02 Silverbird that currently has 21K on it. I bought it last 4th of July with 12K. My riding is largely commuting with forrays into the hill country on the weekends. I'm 215 and I have done a 5mm shim and dropped the trees to 43mm above the top triple tree. No maintenance has been done to the forks or the shock besides spining the ring on the shock all the way up. Ok, ok the questions: 1. Up front do I need to change the Springs? We measured the sag and it's pretty close but the compression is soft. If so what kind of Springs? 2. Is it worth doing the valves on the forks or is changing the weight of the oil enough? What weight? 3. Any other options up front? 4. In the rear, which one? Does anyone have a good combination that matches up well as far as balance between the front and back? 5. What else can be done within reason to make this handle a little more like a 750 in the hills, didn't want to get greedy and shoot for 600 handling? I know this could get a little pricey but it might just be worth to have a bike that's almost perfect for what I want to do with less than 25K and paid off as opposed to another payment. Thanks for the help!

Unfortunately our ride was abbreviated when a new guy to our group lost it on some gravel in a corner heading for Leakey. He got air lifted but only had a broken colar bone. His Ducati Monster on the other hand... totaled. That took a couple of hours to get cleaned up and as we mounted to go get something to eat this sweet looking young lady came through the same spot, great form. She had been riding for 15 years. Her boyfriend, a chiropractor with 3 months riding experience, then proceeded to pirouette off in the same spot. It was a very long day and we never even got to the good part of the riding. From what I could tell the bike turned in a little more quickly. It was not as noticeable as the shim but I think it helped? I didn't notice any stability or head shake issues.

Sorry, guess I read your question wrong, carry on. Ok, thought I'd share some stuff that was interesting to me: 1) Changing fluid on the linked brake was interesting and required a good amount of fluid 2) Dropped the triple trees (already did 5 mm shim in the rear). The interesting part is that when I bought my bike it already had Helibars and they were flush with the top of the cap. I thought that was the same as stock, not so. Stock, according to the service manual, was 39mm from the deck of the top triple clamp. The way mine was set up was at 36mm. We dropped it to 43mm to see what happens. 3) Had a guy there that specialized in suspension set up. Surprisingly, I'm 210 Lbs., he said the Spring Rate was pretty close to being right. The fork settled in at 36mm of sag but a little much stiction. I know it's stock and not had the oil changed. The rear spring, as we all know, is too light. Spun the ring all the way and got to 38mm sag. Out of two turns on the rear shock damper settled on 1/2 turn out from lock. Overall, learned a lot about a lot today. Support the local club, very beneficial! TSBA San Antonio Going on a group ride tomorrow out towards Leakey to see if the Big ol' girl turns more confidently. Yes, I'll be careful. I know that was a significant drop up front.

I understand that difference I guess the question primarily on the dropping the trees a little is what the effect will be having already shimmed 5mm in the back? Anyone got an opinion about the right weight oil for the stock forks / level? Thanks!

Sorry, specifics... '02 Bird completely stock suspension besides the shim 19K on the bike I'm 220 geared up yes, I will eventually do springs, oil, and a rear shock but not for a while I haven't changed the fork oil so I should probably do that - would this be a good time to change the weight? Thanks

Yes, I've read the posts. This weekend I'm going to a wrenchfest with the local club, TSBA, to do some maintenance. On the agenda is a change of fluids in the clutch and brake resevoirs, and a suspension set for sag. The bleeding process - anything I need to know here besides the procedure in the manual? I have shimmed the rear up about 5mm and really enjoyed the result. Since I'm going to correctly set the sag, just the rear right?, I was considering dropping the front maybe 3mm? The bike has helibars on it and the tubes are flush at this point. I enjoy trying to make the big girl turn out here in the hill country around San Antonio and use it to commute daily. I rarely venture into the + 150 category. Thoughts? Thanks for the help!

found it - Spark Plug Maintenance http://www.superblackbird.com/spark1.cfm

I'm not sure where the link is but someone has a picture base turorial on this. Warchild maybe? I had the same question a few months ago and I'm glad I followed the instructions. No need to undo hoses or the like if it's a simple air filter swap. You pull the metal sleeves that hold the tank down, pull the tank back, put just the bolts in, prop the fron of the tank up with a block of wood, and swap the filter. Takes no more than 10 minutes. Someone post up that link if you know where it's at.

TYPE SUPERSPORT 4-2-1 HEADER ASSY STAINLES STEEL TUBES 4 x Ø 40 in to 2 x Ø 45 in to Ø 52/0,9 mm MUFFLER TYPE RACING 1 elliptical, 52/470-500/50 mm TOTAL WEIGHT 5.7 kg - with M-TCR1 /M-TTR1 muffler MODEL 1996 - 1998 Sorry, that link doesn't work - here's the description UPDATE: This is actually for an FI bike. It has the ss header and the carbon can. It comes with a PC, not sure if it's a II or III. So what is this worth? The exhaust system is still in the box, not sure about the PC. My biggest concern is the Center Stand issue with this system. What kind of performance changes should I see with this? This is an opportunistic deal but should I do more research and look for something else? Thanks for your input! UPDATE2: as mentioned above all new exhaust PCII in the box. $575 - don't know if I can pop for this right now nor am I sure if I want to fight the center stand issue? Is this a good deal? If someone's interested I could probably get you in touch with him.

TYPE SUPERSPORT 4-2-1 HEADER ASSY STAINLES STEEL TUBES 4 x Ø 40 in to 2 x Ø 45 in to Ø 52/0,9 mm MUFFLER TYPE RACING 1 elliptical, 52/470-500/50 mm TOTAL WEIGHT 5.7 kg - with M-TCR1 /M-TTR1 muffler MODEL 1996 - 1998 Sorry, that link doesn't work - here's the description UPDATE: This is actually for an FI bike. It has the ss header and the carbon can. It comes with a PC, not sure if it's a II or III. So what is this worth? The exhaust system is still in the box, not sure about the PC. My biggest concern is the Center Stand issue with this system. What kind of performance changes should I see with this? This is an opportunistic deal but should I do more research and look for something else? Thanks for your input!

http://www.akrapovic-exhaust.com/main/cata...cts-catalog.htm Have an opportunity to pick this up but will it work with my '02 FI Bird? If so how much is it worth - new in box? Thanks! TYPE SUPERSPORT 4-2-1 HEADER ASSY STAINLES STEEL TUBES 4 x Ø 40 in to 2 x Ø 45 in to Ø 52/0,9 mm MUFFLER TYPE RACING 1 elliptical, 52/470-500/50 mm TOTAL WEIGHT 5.7 kg - with M-TCR1 /M-TTR1 muffler MODEL 1996 - 1998 Sorry, that link doesn't work - here's the description

Ok, so if your back and ya got such a pretty bike when we going for a ride?

See now that makes perfect sense! Too bad the stealership, along with me peering at the fiche, couldn't advise me that that was a pin not a bolt. I'm sure they enjoyed selling me another $5 bolt! Thanks.

I think I know the answer but here goes: When I picked up my '02 Silver Bird it came sans the bolt that holds the fairing down below the kickstand. I've gove through the process of buying the bolt and finding a backing nut but I can't bring myself to put in on. It's a serious pain in the ass. What kind of design is that. I really can't see the necessity when I pull that lower left cowl on a pretty regular basis to access the oil filter. Am I alone here or just completely blind?

Thanks for the thoughts. Sounds like the stealership is just that. I should have known when they charged me $5 for a bolt. Any more thoughts on other tires to consider, I know recently Cycle Gear had t a great deal on some tires? What about more opinions about a Pilot Power up front and a road on the rear. Stealership said that was a bad idea because the front might hook up in the twisties while the rear wouldn't hold on as tight. Keep in mind mostly commuting and even in the twisties I don't look much like Nicky Hayden. Thanks, this site is a huge asset when it comes to making these decisions!

Ok, I've heard of people going with a pilot power up front and a road in the rear. Thoughts? Is $299 before tax any kind of a deal on these tires? That's what it comes out to at the stealership with $100 off. I may be better off getting them elsewhere? Thanks.

I looked at the following thread but it's a little dated. Has anyone's advice changed over the last 6 months? I'm close to needing new tires so I'd like to take advantage of the sale on Friday. I commute and head for the Hill Country, twisties, on the weekends. Pretty much the same scenario as the following thread. Should I just go with the size recommended in the Owner's Manual? F: 120/70 ZR17 (58W) Radial R: 180/55 ZR17 (73W) Radial Or do we do plus sizes on the XX? http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...pid=470704& Thanks for your help!

My local Stealership has a 50% sale this Friday and I'm close to needing new tires. I'm pretty much in the same boat as the author of this thread. Has 6 months changed anyone's opinions about tires for this scenario? Thanks.

UPDATE: I did the Advanced Motorcycle Safety Course today, Foundations, probably started the bike 25 times over the course of the day. No troubles from 6 this morning through this evening. Moral of the story the stealership loses a customer because they tried to sell me a battery for $140 and I ended up buying one from AZ for $70. BTW - good class! Probably burned a quarter of a tank of gas in that parking lot. Good practice with quick stops, swerves, corner techniqes, etc.

Ok, I realize a lot of the people I need to speak to are about 45 miles from here having a blast in Fredricksburg at TeXXT. I couldn't go. Five kids will do that to you. Here's my issues.... I went to get on the bird Friday morning, I communte, and it was about 50 outside. Got all the gear on and....not enough juice to turn her over. First, a slow spin and then a buzz... I had noticed not so enthusiastic starts in the last few months so as I ungeared I thought...well, time for a new battery. It is a '02 bird so probably time. Today, in between events at the Karate tournament, one of the reasons I couldn't go to TeXXT, I run over to Honda to pick up parts and just for a good laugh "hey, how much is a battery for my bird?", "$140 and they kinda got ya there becuase Yassau is the only one that will fit..." I said ok and I'll get back to you. $ I had settled on that it was going to be twice what a car battery was but $140 seemed steep! I proceed to check around and the local AuroZone says they can hook me up. Sealed battery, a little taller than the OEM but still funcitonal for $69. Smokin' deal, I run down and buy it. Run home, put it in...., you know what's coming, same thing as before. AZ actually spec'd the bike so I'm sure it's the right battery. I did have to bend up the metal prongs on the end of the cable because the holes weren't in exactly the same place. My thinking was that maybe this battery had been in a box on a shelf for a while so I bump'd the bird, she fired to life, and I ran her around the block and let her idle for about 10 minutes. Shut her down and she comes to life like I haven't heard her do since I adopted her on the 4th of July this year. Being the conscientious owner that I am I think well I know with lead acid batteries that they need an ititial charge so I have her on the trickle charger for about four hours right now. So you Sages out there, whay should I expect the next time I go out to fire her up when it's 50 or below outside? Know that if you answer quickly I'll know you're home on a Saturday night with as little life as me. And, if you somehow are 45 miles away with your laptop and a connection I'm INCREDIBLY JEALOUS at the beautiful weather you had to ride in today. San Antonio - low 50, high, 77. Thanks for the help!

Don't mean to hijack but what undertail is that, did you have to paint it to match, and how hard is it to get the turn signals in there? Feel free to PM me if you want to keep the thread pure. Thanks!

I'm getting close to 16 K on my bird and starting to look at pads front and rear. I've looked at the threds here and understand the sintered pads seem to be the most recomended and run around $100 shipped. I was looking on ebay and found the kevlar pads shipped for around $40. Any issues with these. I commute and run the Hill country on the weekends. I don't mind paying the extra $60 if it is a significant difference but if it's microscopic I'm not that great of a rider and I probably wouldn't notice. Opinions? Anyone got a line on a back rest for the Corbin GFL? My wife rides once in a while and the back rest would help. Thanks for the help!