Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum

JasonW

Members
  • Posts

    969
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by JasonW

  1. Sweet!

    I've been tinkering with a similar project on my '97 for quite awhile, but haven't had time to work on it much lately.

    I went with a '95 VFR swingarm since the linkage on the '90-'92 was so much different than the XX's. The biggest obstacle of the whole project is the fact that the XX shock mounts dead center on the frame and the VFR is offset to the left. This makes for some funky linkage no matter which Viffer swingarm you use.

    I'm also doing a few other mods along with the swingarm so it's gotten a little overwhelming.

    567169ab.jpg

    I'm looking forward to seeing yours when it's completed. Keep at it. :icon_thumbsup:

  2. Like it says, I'm looking for a clutch master cylinder and/or hydraulic line.

    If you have a good M/C you're not using for some reason and would like to part with it, please let me know what you want out of it. I've got my eye on a few on ebay, but would rather deal with forum members if the price is right.

    I am also looking for the hydraulic line that goes between the clutch M/C and the slave. So, if you changed over to braided stainless lines and haven't thrown away your old stock line and would like to get it out of that drawer in your garage please let me know what you'd like out of it and we'll talk.

    Thanks

  3. BTW,all decals on both bikes are 9.99 ebay deals,,,,,,,,,

    Damn man, sorry to hear you got screwed. :icon_twisted:

    I really like the R1's scheme and the XX should look good in the next "Pride" parade. :icon_razz:

  4. Ok, I'm not sure how to describe this process. This is why I'm not a good teacher.

    First off, the bar has to come off of the fork tube in order for you to slide the grip and housing back onto the bar. Otherwise, there won't be enough slack in anything (meaning the wiring, or cables) to reach the end of the bar with it still on the fork.

    With the housing off the bar and split in two, you should be able to get the cable ends onto the grip without any problem. Don't put the grip into the housing first, and then try to get the ends on. Put the cable ends onto the grip first, then manuever it into the housing. It'll go right in. Just make sure that the cables are routed correctly onto the grip end.

    Once you get the cable ends onto the grip and into the housing, slide the whole assembly onto the handlebar before putting the two halves of the housing back together. Then slide the handlebar back onto the fork tube.

    Also, looking at that first picture, it looks like you removed the fork cap in order to remove the handlebar? I'm not sure if you know this or not, but you only need to remove the clip around the fork cap and loosen the allen bolt in the bar to get the bar off the fork.

    Here's an attempt at a vid of how to get the cable ends onto the grip/throttle tube. I hope this works.

    th_3-20-07006.jpg

  5. You've already removed the throttle cable from the tube. By the tube, I mean the throttle tube which is what the cables attach to and the rubber grip is slid over top of. I'm assuming that the chrome grips have the throttle tube as part of the grip itself, therefore you only need to install the grip to the cables at this point.

  6. The brake switch wiring is the small tube of wires that goes to the front brake master cylinder. You need to disconnect that from the master cylinder in order to slide the switch/throttle tube housing off of the bar (you can leave the master cylinder/brake lever on the bar). You don't have to do anything with the other wiring loom to the switch as you will have enough slack after removing the bar.

  7. Here's a link that I responded to awhile back just after I had done this myself. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...mp;hl=handlebar

    You need to do more than just remove the bar. You also need to remove the throttle tube from the housing and bar in order to manipulate the tube and cable. Having the bar off the forks allows you the slack to slide the throttle tube back onto the bar.

    In other words, remove bar from fork, remove throttle tube/grip from switch housing (by unplugging brake switch, and removing the two screws in the bottom of housing), slide throttle tube out of housing, remove cable from throttle tube, slide tube off of bar, replace cable onto new throttle tube/grip, slide back onto bar and into housing, replace bar onto fork.

    Does that make sense? It's hard to describe, but once you have it apart in your hands, hopefully it'll be more clear.

  8. I got an idea for ya..... 3m clear vinyl.

    Not just the 3M clear vinyl, but their paint protection film. There is a difference and a big one at that.

    There are other products that work just as well such as Avery "Stonegaurd" if you can't find the 3M stuff.

  9. Funny the gauge on my 98 has never been above ~1/4 since I have had it and I have ridden on a few 38C (100F) days including one day where it would have been ~42-43C although these have all been away from stop start traffic so good airflow :icon_think:

    My '97 is the same way. I've never seen it too much above half way and that was after sitting still in a traffic jam in 100+ degree temps. Once underway, it immediately went back down to it's usual 1/4 mark.

    Most overheating reports come from owners of FI bikes. I'm not sure if it's because of the oilcooler being in a different spot, or if it's the difference in gauges. The digital dash shows the temp in numbers where the analog gauge simply has a bar.

    It would be interesting to hear from owners of '99 and '00 bikes to see where their temp gauge is usually at on a hot day while sitting still for awhile.

  10. This has been covered in the past.

    Wrapping the header certainly won't hurt anything. Some will argue that the wrap will cause the header to rust from the inside out. That is true on carbon steel headers, but I have yet to see a stainless one do it.

    While wrapping a header's purpose is to keep the heat in the tubes, helping with the scavanging, the problem is that if you are running stock canisters, the heat will simply be transfered back to them, causing them to be even hotter.

    Is your bike running hot, or is it that the heat from the engine is uncomfortable?

    As for the fan blade, I think someone here has experimented with a Muzzy fan for another application, but I don't recall them reporting back any results.

    It's my opinion that Honda did a find job in it's cooling system. Most that report overheating either have a problem with the cooling system (i.e. not enough coolant, or a bubble in the system) or they are freaking because their gauge is reading higher than what they are accustomed to seeing when at a standstill and it's not actually overheating. If it's not boiling over, it's probably not running too hot. If it is boiling over, you need to look further into your stock system to find what's wrong.

    Additives like Waterwetter will also help drop temps a few degrees.

  11. I've got a fiberglass one piece solo cowl that I'd be willing to part with.

    It's similar to the one shown, but is a bit taller. It doesn't fit flush with the passenger seat but instead steps up a bit.......almost exactly like this: IPB Image

    I purchased it with the intention of altering the seat and then cutting the top portion and adding a hinge to make a smuggler-type tail out of it. I ended up with a Metisse and altered the seat instead.

    The biggest downside of a tail section like this is that unless you modify the seat and latch (or the cowl itself), you have to remove the entire cowl in order to get under the seat.

  12. Howie's system is far superior (and rare) with the Ti bits and all, but here are a few other options for just the header.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Honda-CBR1100-CBR-1100...1QQcmdZViewItem

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Stainless-Header-Pipes...1QQcmdZViewItem

    I have noticed that the collector for the first pairing on these headers is rather short compared to the stock unit. These are almost 4-1-2 headers as opposed to 4-2-1-2 like stock. How much this will affect the performance curve, I don't know.

    Just out of curiosity, Howie, how is that TSR system configured?

  13. I used to think that the 'bird would never need a steering damper until one night during a stoplight dragrace with my friend I experienced a tankslapper from hell.

    I blame it on the road as it was one of those that had the indentations from cage/truck tires in it. The kind that resemble two gutters from a bowling alley, only more shallow.

    Anyway, the front tire got light from the shift from first to second and when it came down the oscillations started. They went from a mild shake to a full blown slapper that took the bars close to lock on each side. I tried everything that I've learned in the past about tankslappers to get it to stop, but nothing seemed to work. Fortunately they subsided before I ran out of real estate or ate asphalt.

    I still haven't installed a damper, and have never experienced another slapper, but I can see the desire to have one as extra insurance. I've had some close calls and even crashes, but that was probably the single most scary incident I've experienced on the 'bird.

    Yeah, I know I'm a squid for street racing, but in my defense it was in the middle of the night and there was absolutely no traffic to be found. Besides, we never went 5mph over. :icon_wink:

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use