JasonW
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Posts posted by JasonW
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Life says it's time to hang up the helmet so I'm selling the farkles, then the bikes.
Polished aluminum MIG hi-mounts with mounting brackets and spacers to retain passenger footpegs. Custom "CBRXX" badges (I do not have the original ugly MIG badges). $600 shipped to the lower 48.
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Nice. Now thats going to be stuck in my head forever. Bastard.
Yeah, I'm kicking myself for doing that because it's also been stuck in my head since I posted it. :icon_doh:
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Is that anything like :
whip-it / whip-it good
I'm guessing these things mix together an MP3 player, a radar detector and a GPS?
So that sounds about right, John....
When a wrong turn comes along......you must Mix it
with your Nuvi and a song..........you must Mix it
No one gets away.......unless they Mix it
Now mix it
Into shape
shape it up
get straight
go forward
move ahead
try to detect it
it's not too late
to mix it
mix it 2
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He said Machesinis, not Carozzerias.
Yes he did, but is that some sort of knock-off of Marchesini ?
Oh shit, now I've become one of the spelling nazis!
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Hey all, I seem to have one of those bugs that is really hard to reproduce as its done it to me only once in the 2 months I've owned her. I've got a 2000 BB with the PC-3 and 4-1 exhaust otherwise stock.
As I was just innocently sitting their idling at a stop light everything dies. I mean everything. No idiot lights, clock, motor of course, nothin. Pulled off the road flipped the key back and forth once or twice and bam she starts right up. Running fine. Now the clock is an hour behind on the dash so I'm thinking the Neg terminal on the battery may be loose, but its not. A cursory once over SEEMS to show the connectors tight. Havent gone too deeply into it as I thought maybe this is something some of you may have experience with.
I'm fairly mechanically inclined as I've kept a variety of motorcycles alive over the years but have never experienced a catastrophic and instantaneous failure. I gotta be honest I'm used to bikes stuttering and complaining before dying on me. This just quit like the battery was suddenly disconnected.
Any ideas? I'll keep troubleshootin just for fun anyhow
Tough diagnosing over the internet, but it sounds like it could be in the switch based on what you've said.
You may also want to check the battery connections to the bike (to starter and ground) as well as to the battery itself.
I've also heard of kill switches on the right bar going bad as well.
Just thinking out loud.
Not much help though, I know.
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Thankyou for the reply< bike request is for my brother who lives in Nebraska and he would be interested, I will forward the link, Thanks again Rudy
What part of Nebraska? I'll keep my eye out.
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Anyone have a pic of the Metisse on a Bird. Ive never seen one of them and would like to get one for at the dragstrip
Here's a few with the Metisse cowl. However, if you're looking for something to keep you from sliding back in the seat at the dragstrip, the Metisse is not the answer since it only fastens by plastic clips and can actually pop off the seat if slid rearward since the seat tapers. I cut out the passenger area of my seat to create a poor man's smuggler and it has plenty of room to hold my extra helmet shield and more. In the pic of this you can see the plastic clips that hold the cowl to the seat edge.
If you're looking for something that will hold you into the seat, I've got a fiberglass one-piece cowl that will do the trick nicely that I'd be willing to part with. It's not in perfect condition, but it isn't too bad. PM if you're interested and I can get you more pics.
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Wow, what a smokin' deal! I can't believe it hasn't been snatched up yet. I wish I had some extra scratch lying around.
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I'm not 100% sure, but I think that they are. I think this was brought up some years ago and there is an indication of a panel on the bottom of the tail light that also leads me to believe this. I can't think of any other reason for the lens to be manufactured that way.
Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I (not hard to do) will pipe in.
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You have a PM.
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Is it hard to change the CCT? I am getting conflicting reports. The dealer says 3.5-4 hours labor.
Holy Shit! Do they plan on getting to it from the left side of the bike?!?
It takes longer to loosen the right lower fairing (not necessarily remove it) to access it than it does to swap it out.
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Mike,
How much you looking to get out of that tank? I may be interested if Josh isn't.
We need to get together for a ride sometime before the weather goes to shit. You still got the same number?
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Unfortunately, you're not going to find any aftermarket decals that match the quality and EXACT look of the factory decals. The materials and process they use isn't cost effective for your average decal shop.
It looks like Xtreeme doesn't even have the sizes correct, as the side logos should measure just slightly over 11.25" long (11.284" to be exact) by almost 6" tall (5.962" to be exact). The tank decals should measure 4.878" wide by 3.875" tall.
That being said, if you're extremely picky about the decals being EXACTLY like factory, you'll have to order them from Honda.
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I think that link answers your question. I'd be willing to bet that the angle of the mount is the same for all of the bikes listed based on my experience with putting XX pegs on both the 600rr and 929 rearsets (those are all at the same angle).
Obviously, wait until alf03 tries it, but I'm 99.999% sure it will work. Like I said before, the only difference will be the ball detent vs. spring.
Good luck and post pics of them on when you're done.
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As far as being whipped, if I want her to shut up I just pop the front wheel up a few times and she stops talking to me :icon_clap:
So when you wear your "If you can read this, the bitch fell off" shirt, you really mean it.
Like I said, I don't know what the ST pegs look like, but I'd have to say that if they look like they'll work, then I'd be willing to bet that they probably will. Hopefully someone with both bikes will be willing to test it for you. Otherwise you'll just have to try to find a used pair cheap and give it a try.
Good luck with it.
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I don't have an ST1300, so I don't know what the pillion pegs look like, but I do know that quite a few Honda model's pegs are interchangeable. For instance, my Frankenbike has 2000 XX pegs on a 600rr right rearset and a 929 left rearset.
I'm also pretty sure that you can put the driver's pegs on the pillion mounts as well. It might even be possible to retain the ball detent parts so that the pegs will stay up instead of spring down, but you'd just have to experiment with it to find out, as I've never tried it.
So, you could just pick up some XX pegs and use them for her. As you may know, the newer XX pegs are a little more slender than the earlier models, but still have the rubber pads and would look pretty decent on the pillion mounts, IMO. OR if you are really pussy-whipped (or just want her to shut the hell up), you could just swap pegs with her.
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The pic in his avatar is from the website of a company called Race Applications Monaco or R.A.M. that makes expensive, direct bolt-on single sided swingarm kits. R.A.M.
I'd also like to think that's not MitchT in his avatar.
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...something different about our mirrors made it much more complicated (that is, much less straightforward) than this procedure.
It's been awhile since I've been inside an XX mirror, but IIRC, the mirror itself is mounted to a plastic piece that allows for the angle adjustment. You'll first need to remove the glass from this piece (which I would assume would be done similarly to how he removed his, by heating in the oven, then prying). I have no idea if it would be that simple, though. It would be interesting to try.
If I were going to go through all of that trouble, I'd go so far as to remove the reflective portion of glass to only expose the lighted portions of the Datel, instead of having a huge rectangle cut out. Sort of a pain in the ass, I know, but very possible (I'd have to look closer at a Datel) and worth the extra effort in my opinion.
I may tinker with this over the winter.
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Not the Datel site, but a mirror mount link. Clicky
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dumber question: I'm not at home to look in my tool kit, but are there 22 & 27mm wrenches that work well-enough that I won't have to fork out $$ for a set of sockets containing a 22 & 27mm socket?
I use the wrenches in the toolbox to adjust my chain while on trips. So the answer would be yes.
SAE sizes will work as well............ 7/8" for the sprocket side and 1 1/16" for the brake side.
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Umm I am running the bike with no fairings... how does this cause it to run like shit?
Sorry, that was a brain fart. The lowers won't affect it at all, but the upper apparently will. While I've never done it myself, I've seen more than a few people on here and the "other" sites have trouble running without fairings on the carbed bikes, either due to going the streetfighter route, or running it without the fairings after a wreck or after rejetting and testing before complete reassembly. It has to do with where the airbox takes in air, which is through those little vents in the sides of the upper. If the airbox is directly exposed to the airstream at speed it gets far too much air. Obviously this will only occur while under way, so it's tough to diagnose and it does apparently affect it on a drastic level. There is quite a bit of difference between those little slits in the fairing and having a snorkel directly out in the airstream.
Just passing along what I've read here over the years as a possible culprit.
I'm out of ideas.
Well apparently that is a majority of my problem. On the dyno the bike runs top but on the street the snorkles if you will on the air box become ram air and pressurizes the airbox and since the float bowls arent pressurized the bike basically starves for gas so apparently if you have a carbed bike and you dont block off direct air flow by using your inner cowls and such it will run like ass... so she put down 149 hp and 82ftlbs of torque and I am running 1 tooth down in front and up 1 tooth in the rear. Sucky thing is the dyno said my top speed was just over 160. I thought this bike stock did 186??? Yeah I know I am geared but come on....
Good, glad you found the problem. I found an old post that confirms this: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...ic=30294&hl, and I remember actually running into the same issue after my accident, but repaired the bike completely before realizing what was wrong.
160 sounds about right......stock bike w/ stock gearing struggles to hit 180 going downhill with a tailwind.
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Umm I am running the bike with no fairings... how does this cause it to run like shit?
Sorry, that was a brain fart. The lowers won't affect it at all, but the upper apparently will. While I've never done it myself, I've seen more than a few people on here and the "other" sites have trouble running without fairings on the carbed bikes, either due to going the streetfighter route, or running it without the fairings after a wreck or after rejetting and testing before complete reassembly. It has to do with where the airbox takes in air, which is through those little vents in the sides of the upper. If the airbox is directly exposed to the airstream at speed it gets far too much air. Obviously this will only occur while under way, so it's tough to diagnose and it does apparently affect it on a drastic level. There is quite a bit of difference between those little slits in the fairing and having a snorkel directly out in the airstream.
Just passing along what I've read here over the years as a possible culprit.
I'm out of ideas.
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I know you said that it's definitely not the petcock, and not to insult your intelligence, but did you make sure that the vacuum hose was hooked up to the right nipple? I know it seems simple, but many have mistook the nipple at the far bottom of the petcock as the vacuum when it isn't anything at all.
Also, are you running the bike with the lower fairings off? This too will cause it to run like shit.
Just trying to think of things that haven't been mentioned. I'll keep thinking.
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Thanks for the compliments guys. I just wish it was as finished as it appears in the photo.
Okay, here's the scoop......
It's pretty simple as for parts......just a lot of figuring out how to blend them all together. My goal is to produce a custom that looks factory. I want something that someone who doesn't know anything about bikes has no idea that this is 4 different bikes meshed together.
It all started out with the swingarm. As stated earlier, it's from a '95 VFR 750 and the wheel is from a VFR800. I was initially going to do an underseat exhaust in the stock tail and route the exhaust up the side similar to the Ducati, but then the 600rr came out and I liked how the tail had a "lighter", more streamlined, modern look to it. The way the exhaust was routed fit nicely with the VFR swingarm as well. Everything kind of tucked in together like it was meant to be. I started this project in mid '03, before the 1000rr was even in existence, so it was tough to even find the parts. Fortunately, I knew a guy that bought wrecks and parted them on ebay. He lent me the parts to try and it grew from there. When the 1000rr came out I had thought about using it's tail instead, but decided that I liked how the 600rr tail extended all the way up to the tank instead of just hanging off the rear of the subframe. I thought it made a nice transition from the bulkiness of the XX front to the minimalist rear of the 600rr. Of course, the addition of the tail led to a whole bunch of projects to make it all work.
The lower fairing/bellypan is a combination of XX lowers and 600rr belly. The seat is a combination of XX front, where it meets the tank, and the rest is the 600rr. The pillion seat is stock and I have a Honda cowl for it since I don't carry passengers very often. The exhaust is going to be a custom job consisting of and aftermarket 1000rr canister and custom piping. In the photo, the stock 600rr exhaust is in place, but I'm obviously not going to use it due to lack of flow.
The front fender shown is part RC51 and part XX, but it didn't come out very nice. It looks good in the photo, but looks like shit in person. I've got a complete zx-12 front that I'm using now instead. I figure if I'm going that far on the rear, I might as well do a USD fork as well. I just need to find an aftermarket 12 front wheel that looks good with the Viffer rear.
Like I said, the bike is mostly stock parts from different bikes with most of the "custom" work unseen in the bracketry that meshes it all together.
Life hasn't allowed me to devote much time to it, but hopefully I'll get some time to finish it this year. I've got too many other projects going and a mostly stock 2000 XX to ride, so it's hard to find time to tinker on it. This started out in hopes of having a more up to date looking XX, but by the time I finish it, it'll probably look outdated again.
I've really got to hand it to guys like Stan, Jeff and Alan that have taken their ideas and made them a reality as I know how much time and effort goes into projects like that. My hat's off to you guys. :icon_thumbsup: Now I just need to get out there and put some more time into it.
Now, who was it that had the custom upper with the dual headlights for sale????
FS- MIG Hi-Mount slip-ons
in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
Posted
Thanks for the warm welcomes, Joe and Tim. It's good to see old familiar faces still around. This place really is truly special among forums. I've never seen a brotherhood quite like it. I wish I had been able to make it to at least one of the meets.
I'm not 100% sure of all of the farkles I'm selling, but so far it is:
Penske Rear shock (8981? I believe) with extra spring.
Race Tech Gold Valves (new in box)
VFR Bars
"Dave's"(?) Peg lowering brackets
There's more, I'm sure, and I'll have more details in separate sale threads to help avoid confusion.
I'm not sure what they are worth these days, so I'll have to do some research, and I'm certainly open to offers.
I have a lot of extra stock parts as well. Not sure what I'll include with the sale of the bikes.