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02XXCA
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Posts posted by 02XXCA
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Background -- yesterday I did the 32k mile maintenance and checked the valves. One was out of spec and 2 were at the far spectrum so I figured I'd go ahead and shim all 3. Pulled the cams, put in the shims and put everything back together. Put the fuel tank back on and started the bike. Well, the started works, and if I gave it gas it kind sounded like it wanted to fire here and there but nothing. I checked all connections and electrical doodads and I'd hooked everything else up correctly. That left a big question mark for the cams. So I left it last night, thoroughly pissed off and attacked it again this morning.
I pulled everything apart again and the cams were basically one tooth farther back on the timing belt than they should have been. Currently it's at TDC and the way the bird's cams are, there is a notch on the sprocket you have to align with the cylinder head. After re-removal it looks like I had the marking one cam chanin link too high. (the IN mark was above the cylinder head, not directly one it) This could conceivably make the bike not start, but I'd think one link would just make it run like ass-- what do you guys say? Is this my problem or is the following question my problem?
Additionally, and this is my BIG question, I'm now second guessing myself on the proper positioning of the crank when I removed everything. There are basically two positions for TDC when in relation to the cams right? One where the cam markings face each other and one where they face away from each other. I'm second guessing myself now on "did I have it in the right place when I removed the cams the FIRST time?"
Is there ANY way to tell which is the 'CORRECT' TDC? Everything I know says it doesn't matter cause the cams define in and exhaust, but the book specifically said 'make sure the marks are facing out'. And like a retard, I can't remember if I did that or not. I assume I did, but then my bike isn't working so who the hell knows
Please help me before I torch this fucking bike and the damn valve cover gasket that never seats.
Bun
There is a mark next to the T marking and thats the TDC mark, there is secondary | mark that is an index for checking the valve clearence which is not TDC. Also on the cams ther is IN mark on the intake cam which should be level with the head on the rear of the block and the Exhaust is marked EX and it's mark should be level with the block onthe front of the engine. Due to the frame it is kind of hard to see the marks for the Intake cam as it's blocked by the frame. I believe the bolt pattern is straight up down for the cam gear to the shaft on the intake side as a secondary refernece.
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Too bad the factory didn't produce a bike like that with adjustable suspension and single sided swing arm with high mount exhaust, all my favs! Looks nice, how much for the kit? Can I buy?
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Rich, that really sucks. Wish you luck on getting settled again back to normalacy.
Oh, I will put in dibs on the speedohealer and dark smoke screen!
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It shouldn't take that long to check them, it'll probably take considerably longer to adjust them. Sounds like they might be splitting the difference and betting they won't need adjusting.
Spend 2-3 hours checking them yourself. If they're in spec, you're golden, if they're out of spec, that $360 ain't a bad deal.
I don't trust dealers. I think they will take your money and lets you go even if a number of them are on the tight side.
I would rather do them myself. Mine at 68K had only one Exhaust that was out of spec, but since i was there I reshimmed them to the loose side, cause I don;t want to go back in for another 68K.
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I tell you it was the most XX's I have seen together in WA. Even though not all bikes were there, between 5 riders there was a total of 7 XX's and other bikes plus one gay MP3. Tim even did a nice short burnout with. He is so buying me a new rear tire! He was grinnning ear to ear!
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Still some items left....come on guys help a friend in need
I also have alternator cover....just minor scratch on it.
I'll take a picture later on.
I will take the rear brake light assembly. Do you take paypal?
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I got ear plugs from teh last motorcycle show. They custom make them to your ear and are very comfortable. They were a bit pricey, but i they work very well. If you are interested in this route, i can get the name of the company that made mine when next week.
Last time I bought plugs I bought the making of the moldable plugs at walmart for like 10 bucks and made one for each ear, I normally use one at a time and plug the other ear with a ear bud that has isolation foam as part of the design.
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Frame sliders are for crashers!
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I did mine the lazy way and just removed the bolt on the bottom of the tubes and pumped the forks.
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Thanks for the info Chris. I went ahead with the 16T just because I want a little more grunt down low. That and White Buffalo didn't have an 18T in stock. Heck, if I don't like the 16T I can easily swap it out for an 18T. Front sprockets are cheap.
Looks like I'll be ordering that speedo healer...
Damm it, I will have to throw on my 16T so I can keep up with you on 36.
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The broken record speaks again:
Did you wipe off your rod?
(clean the clutch actuation rod)
Yes, both after cleaning up inside the cover and area around the rod and also after looking at TopXXCop's last NWS post...
You will definately feel the extra grunt from the lower lower gear ratio, but it will make 1st almost useless, 2nd a whole lot more fun adn you will loose some MPG do to higher revs at freeway speeds plus add a little vibration as ou can't get a rubber dampened 16 like stock 17. I think the XX shifts better with a 16 or 18 than it does the stock 17, without using the clutch.The one think about using the 18 tooth is that it makes 1st usable on tight hairpins and 2nd becomes the only gear you need up to about 65 -75, so riding 36, you can make alot less shifts.
Won't the 18T also help with speedo correction? I'm *thinking* about a speedo healer but if the 18T is going to bring me closer to reality I might skip the speedo healer for now. That, and my farkle list is outpacing my budget.
18T will correct speedo and 16T will make it like 15% off.
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I've got it dialed in. Part of the issue was that I didn't have the spacer in, but I knew that. What I didn't realize is the thickness of the spacer. That, and once I did have it in place there was still about a 1/8" gap. I then put in the bolts that hold the cover on and tightened them (carefully) to make sure there was nothing binding. The cover sucked up as it should and everything is golden. Thanks for the push in the right direction Stan. :icon_thumbsup:
Now I've got to decide if I'm going to go with a 16T or stock 17T sprocket up front...
You will definately feel the extra grunt from the lower lower gear ratio, but it will make 1st almost useless, 2nd a whole lot more fun adn you will loose some MPG do to higher revs at freeway speeds plus add a little vibration as ou can't get a rubber dampened 16 like stock 17. I think the XX shifts better with a 16 or 18 than it does the stock 17, without using the clutch.
The one think about using the 18 tooth is that it makes 1st usable on tight hairpins and 2nd becomes the only gear you need up to about 65 -75, so riding 36, you can make alot less shifts.
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Try replacing the tensioner lifter(CCT)first, if that doesn't solve the noise, then buy the actual cam chain tensioner that presses against the chain itself and a spare head gasket and I will volunteer my time to come over and help you swap it if you cover my gas and ferry ride.
Chris
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Second dibbs the boots if Stan backs out!!
You must not know Stan.
How long have you been lurking?
Well, I'm Vern's (haWHYnXX) wife, so I've seen my share of posts.
BTW Stan, we received the center stand bracket in the mail today...thanks!
[hijack]Nice to see you over here, Noreen. Did you get a bigger ride for this season?[/hijack]F4: I love the jacket. No chance it is a baggy 40? Like maybe stretch out to 42-44?
Hi Duane! Haven't heard from you in a while. You gonna be at Hookers this year? Didn't see your name on the list......yet.
Got this after the meet last year.
Got this last month.I will post up with better pics in the intro forum soon.
You and Vern are such bike whores!!! I'm so Jealous, you must have a big garage!
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+1 on my Spiegler lines as I have Helibars and I needed the extra length.
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Go with 30AMP circuits on your 120 volt receptacles as well. Put some receptacles on the ceiling in case you ever want to do a drop light with cord spool. Think about a few extra light box's on the outside for lighting additions as well as outdoor receptacles
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It's the little thinks that give me peace of mind.
Little thinks are all some of us are capable of.
BTW no way I would buy one of those. Its got to be the most failure prone part on the XX. I just can't risk it.
That's why I need a spare. I will put it in my hard bag, just in case the piece of shit Honda lets me down!
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Damm, now that I did my first valve adjustment at 69K, I should jump on this and I should be good for another 5 years. It's the little thinks that give me peace of mind.
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I'm in too.
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I loosened the trip clamps and let the forks up about 10mm before I had replaced it with an aftermarket shock. without issue. Turn in will be a little slower, but if you even it out, you will have left it stock but taken away some ground clearance. Most of us have increased the rake of the bike by adding 6mm worth of shims to the stock rear shock which lifts the rear and improves the turn in or the aftermarket Wilber shock incorporated a 6mm difference in shock length. Be careful of scrapping peg feelers or plastics if you lower it overall.
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So, how do these compare to buell pegs, any feedback?
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I put together my list and I was going to replace around 6 and swap some others to different postions. I was going to get them all on the loose side so I'm guestimatting on what I needed. Also have a torque wrench in inch pounds on order so I don't strip a bolt when I re-torque the cams and cover.
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The one thing I noticed was its hard seeing the the marks on the intake cam, because of the frame. I see from Tim's pictures he marked the back of the cam, which I failed to do so it will be harder putting it back in. Also is ther any problem taking the cam chain tensioner out insted of backing it off? ALso I followed the manual and removed the sensor on the right side of the case so as to not damage the sensor by the chain.
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Yeah, that it one good thing about doing it yourself, is knowing the true outcome instead of the easy way out by the dealer. I pulled the side plastics and dropped the front raditor and oil cooler to get into the front of the motor. I definately need a lift as I hate bending over. One good thing is that I will know it done right and no corners are cut! I just don't trust dealers!
A lift like this..
I just pulled the cams and took the stock shim numbers.
Are you suppose to mic all the shims and not just go off the etched numbers on the shim ?
Nice lift, where and how much?
I was going to spec the old in case they have worn so I know what I should order.
SHIM DELIMA
in The Garage
Posted
Dropping the triples on the fork tubes will do the same thing, but you are loosing ground clearance. There are some who have drug plastics in the past. Unless you are reducing fork angel significantly you don't have to worry about head shake.