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CALCXX

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Posts posted by CALCXX

  1. On 8/22/2024 at 6:32 AM, superhawk996 said:

      A generic switch on the dash could cure that, maybe install one up front as a back-up.

     

     

    Just might do that all the way back to the motor. No-fail.

    Thanks.

  2. Found it. Have not ordered it yet. Finances over extended for a couple months. I want new Mercury with plug and harness.

    There are many generic type that requires butt splices. I avoid splices. 

    Thanks

  3. I am having a hard time finding the recommended control for a Mercury outboard motor --   serial # DO29350

    Anyone care to search? Provide a link ?             for  Mercury Quicksilver control.

     

    This is an industry protected part #. Why? Amazon is killing the boat motor control industry.

    I talked to 4 Mercury authorized dealers. One said "no because you will search Amazon."

    Yes he said that !

     

    He is right about that part and they are protecting their interest. All want me to drop off the boat. No.

     

    Recommended by Mercury please. Not something that might work. 

    Boat controls are about as complicated as a riding lawnmower.

    I want to start with the recommended control for that motor. 

    I am anal about that.

     

    Anyone care to search?

     

     

  4. No Sir, the center of the sprocket teeth measured to the engine case should be the same as the OEM sprocket to align with the rear sprocket.

    Your new sprocket looks flush with no stand-off. I hope I am wrong and the new sprocket aligns. The threaded holes on the new sprocket are for a retainer.

    That makes me wonder what they sold you. Phillip, it's been many years since I replaced the sprocket on my XX. I will go out to the shop and look at the old OEM sprocket. Brb

     

    The OEM 17T has raised center both sides. The sprocket will "float" on the shaft some. If the center of the new sprocket is the same as the OEM, it won't "float" beyond engineered limits. Please measure the center (thickness) of both sprockets. If the same, should be ok. Still scratching my head why the threaded holes for a retainer?

    8D126933-59C8-421B-869F-AF45D466760C_4_5005_c.jpeg

  5. The offset was my first thought also. I would slide the stock sprocket back on and measure from the sprocket to the case and do the same with the new sprocket.

    The old sprocket has a raised center.

  6. On 7/25/2024 at 10:21 AM, rockmeupto125 said:

     

     

    A little slower off the line reflected by 1/8 mile times, but 1/4 mile times the same as you can pull 4th gear through the traps as opposed to running out of gear or short shifting.

     

    Personally, I enjoyed both the slightly broader usable speed range of the lower gears and felt I needed to shift less frequently. I also liked the cruising rpm a little more relaxed. Fuel usage improved by 1-2 mpg overall.

     

     

    Exactly

  7. On 7/25/2024 at 12:55 PM, CBR-RR-XX-CESS said:

    I agree with you while running a 16. Never understood why make the XX feel slower?  Cal????

    I have been running the 18T on my #1 XX for yrs with a passenger and It did lose some acceleration. I tried a 16T with the ex-wife on the back. Took much shifting and  the front wheel rose quite easily and the ex-wife was not comfortable with the front wheel leaving the ground often. Covered thousands of miles with the 18T and loved how it behaves @ninety. Just getting into the meat of the owerband and relaxed I gave that 16T to you. The 99 needed some help. fwiw, the ex-wife is gone and I might buy another 16T. Make it feel like the 954 even though the 954 is slower. Can't stand the motor singing at ninety. You wouldn't know because you think your going ninety when yours lies so bad. If you folks are thinking about a 16T, don't use 6th gear and you will know what it's like trying to make time on long distance. Jeff, you need to get new bearings in the steering head before you sell it. I do agree, your front tires last along time.

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