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Crew Dawg Dave

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Posts posted by Crew Dawg Dave

    FS:97 XX Black... Lots of Extras

    in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted

    Posted

    I'm headed overseas and need to sell by 97 XX... I'm asking $3500 3250 as is... I do not have the time to part it out, so someone is going to get a good deal

    1997 CBR1100 XX Blackbird.

    Polished frame, and wheels.

    Never been down.

    Race Tech front forks (new fork seals & fluid), Works rear shock,

    Micron carbon fiber exhaust,

    jetted carbs,

    K&N Air Filter (Not installed)

    Pair valve blocked,

    Dave's lowering brackets installed,

    Helibars,

    New zero gravity screen,

    Rt hand Euro headlight switch,

    HID lower beam,

    PIA bulb high beam,

    Clear front blinkers,

    New stator and

    R1 R&R mod completed,

    New battery,

    It has the green dot CCT installed,

    New chain and sprockets (front & back; stock), Race pegs (have stock pegs).

    Third owner and I’m the youngest at 42.

    Rear sub frame plastic panel has small crack.

    I have new D208's front and back tires (not mounted) included.

    Always garaged.

    Blackbirdsellpics001.jpg

    Blackbirdsellpics004-1.jpg

    $3500 obo

    PM me or email me at

    crew.dawg.dave

    at

    cox.n t

    Dave

    Another R/R thread

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Yeah, I know, but it was cool enough (45F) to not burn up on the interstate with it on full, and I wanted to test the stator before it was 15 degrees, and I've got to ride 40 miles home with no electrics because the charging system gave up...

    Actaully, there's voltage and current... When there is very little load, the reg has to burn off a lot of voltage, but at almost no current, and since power equals voltage * current, there isn't a lot of power (heat) that the R/R has to burn up to regulate the voltage. On the other hand, if you're running a lot of current for electrics or lighting or whatever, you're still burning off a lot of voltage, but instead of burning 20V off the top at 1A (20 watts), you're burning 15V off the top at 8A (120 Watts).

    Mike

    Was just giving you shit about the electrics. :icon_twisted:

    Good idea to test the whole system. I'll send you a PM with what I found was up with my charging system.

    Thanks for the actual explanation, although I'm still pretty clueless. <-- Admitting ignorance!

    So.. to talk through it, maybe I should look at this a different way:

    If the system needed more current, it would have to convert that extra voltage to DC, then step down the voltage (upping the current via the ratio), and apply that energy back to the system, which is a lot more work than just burning off the extra AC voltage (and minimal current) to ground?

    Kind-of, except one thing... A regulator does not actually "step down" the voltage and trade it for current like a transformer does. A regulator just turns any voltage higher than the set voltage into heat and dissipates it. If the load current goes up, it still has to take about the same amount of voltage off the top, but it also has to eat up the extra current from that voltage off the top, and since current AND voltage make power, you're burning more power into heat than if you were running less current through the R/R.

    Mike

    ???? Uh??

    So if I understand correctly... The more things I have on ie. high beams, electric vest ect... the cooler the R/R runs, and the few things are on the hotter the R/R will run because the engery is converted into heat.

    Is this right??

    **Please remember I'm keeping this simple...**

    Another R/R thread

    in The Garage

    Posted

    4 months and 6k miles with no trouble.

    *Hijack on*

    I completed the swap a month ago on my 97. The question I have is how hot is the R1 R/R suppose to get? After a 15-20 minute ride home from work I can barely touch it and the subframe 6-8 inches in all directions get hot to warm. Is this normal?? *Hijack off*

    Aftermarket Panniers and mounting kits for blackbirds

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Has anyone tried these bags from JC Whitney, they look like Givi knock off:

    http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Browse/...0014603/c-10111

    I bought a JCW top case. The big one and I busted the latch that holds the lid closed. I had my ruck sack in the case and tried to closed the lid and SNAP... the plasic latch snapped right off. It wasn't that cold in the garage. I had the trunk for 9 months.

    It's time to spend some $$ on some quality cases. :icon_evilgrin:

    rear sprocket

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I have a 47 that I picked up a couple of months ago from BDAZXX. I haven't used it and you are wlecome to it...$30 shipped

    Dave

    Thanks does it fit the stock bird rear? is it steel or aluminum?

    Tim

    Yes it fits the stock rear & it's aluminum

    rear sprocket

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Hi I am looking to go up in the rear either 46 or 47 tooth but can't seem to find anyone who carries one. Is my only option to go up on the counter to an 18? i am looking for more torque out of the corners don't really care about top end. Or does another sprocket fit the pattern on the bird thanks

    I have a 47 that I picked up a couple of months ago from BDAZXX. I haven't used it and you are wlecome to it...$30 shipped

    Dave

    Front Brake Questions

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I'm getting a vibration when I hard on the front brakes or when I'm braking from high speed 130+...

    Right front caliper bolts tight, but the caliper has movment (Up, down & side to side)

    Question I have is,

    1. has anyone else experance this??

    2. Is anyone else right front caliper have any movement?? or is it solidly mounted??

    Any help would be great...

    FYI I have a 97 Bird with 46,500 miles, Race Tech forks...

    Found the problem.... Had a line that was not routed right on the left fork that is apart of the antidive. The line was pushing the fender into the tire as the forks compressed.... line rerouted, problem fixed. :icon_dance:

    [ D- ] Ride Now Online

    in Useful Product Links & Vendor Reviews

    Posted

    Ridenow.com used to be AZMotorsports.com .... they suck

    +1 DAMN RIGHT!!

    Those sorry sonabitches lets the part guys charge "commission" on all the parts to customers order. Ever time I would go in there I would get different prices on the same part. Later I found out that was each parts guy was allowed to charge what ever amount of "commission" he thought someone would pay!.. Rat Bastards :icon_angryflip:

    Rain stalls bird

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I think i know the answer!

    I know I'm gonna get alotta flack for saying this but I think the problem is the K & N AIR FILTER.

    I know 1 million bikers use em but..

    It's the only solution that explains all the sympyoms.

    so I ordered a stock Honda filter today (32 bones). It'll be here in 5 days then I'll wait / pray for rain.

    props for helping Flitemdic, Obby, Sokanaxx, Lois, Tomek, Canadian Bird and Bandit XX

    I think your on to something....

    I bought Obby's 97 XX and I changed out the K&N for a stock filter shortly after I brought the bike to Phoenix for dust reasons. About 4 weeks ago I rode in a heavy rain storm for about 30-40 mintues and no problems. I did make sure to change out all vent hoses on the fuel tank and made sure the drain holes in the air box were open when I installed the stock filter.

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