slowrideCX
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Posts posted by slowrideCX
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I don't know if it would be worth the money for SS these lines lasted 209, 000 miles and 12 years so new lines should last longer than the rest of the truck.
I can tell you the back brakes were not hard at all to bleed.not sure what the rest of the system will be like though.
Trying to get a prebent line into place will be hell on this thing. I am just going to buy a roll of steel tubing and some flare nuts and go to town. I have the bender and flare tool just gotta muster up the motivation to do it.
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On my way to work yesterday I blew the steel brake line that feeds the rear brakes. Thank God I was at a stop when it went and not trying to stop.
Today I attempted to replace the entire line from the ABS booster to the rear. What a motherfucker to get to. Needless to say I patched the bad line with a flare union and new piece of line.
I am going to need to replace all the steel lines soon though because they are starting to look a bit sketchy.
Whatever happened to the simple plumbing for the brake system on vehicles?
The truck only has 4 fucking brakes but there are steel lines all over the place.
2 from the master cylinder, 5 at the ABS booster. This is gonna be a fucking project to do.
I know stop fucking whining and just do it....
Just wanted to vent.
I am just happy my daughter wasn't driving at the time.
Ok I feel better now.
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Joe I would put some foam board insulation on the ceiling and try to segment the foam board for the door. As for the sides of the door you could try to get some rubber and make overlapping skirts around the door opening to help block the air and not hinder the door. The floor is insulated with the ground. A small ceramic electric heater would probably be fine. What temp are you trying to maintain?
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Congrats Rick.
I am jealous and envious of you. I have not been working out as regular as I like do to work and just having too many things going on. I am looking forward to the winter months when I am on straight days so I can work out regularly again.
Keep up the good work buddy.
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Ahhh gotcha. .. I will peel an eye for ya...
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Did you retire your current tractor? Or did the flood waters finally kill it?
I will keep an eye out around here. There is always shit for sale like that around here.
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Hey Griff. Long time no speak... how the fuck ya been?
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I have used M1 since I got my bike 44, 000 miles ago and never a days problem. You may want to check your cushdrive in the rear wheel though. I replaced mine about 10, 000 miles ago because it was clunking during shifts. The rubber was hard and fit loose in the hub. The new rubber fit tight and no more clunk. I still get it from time to time but it is all me in the way I shift. If I am careful it won't clunk but if I get lazy it has a slight clunk.
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If you put the bike in 4-5 gear can you try to bump start it? Will the motor turn over as if it wants to start?
What does your oil look/smell like?
I am just throwing ideas out here.
My starter solenoid just recently started intermittently acting up where it would take several trys to get it to start. It would click but not turn the motor over. I replaced the solenoid and all is well again.
The fact that your bike sat for several months untouched makes me think you may have a corrosion problem or the rings rusted to the cylinder. (Very far fetched but I have seen it happen)
If it was stored in a damp environment the moisture will wreak havoc on contacts and internal parts.
Good luck. I hope you can get her running soon.
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The fluid in my truck is full synthetic so that will help with heat degradation also.
The best friend to a trans is regular service. Same as with the motor. Keep them clean and they will be happy for many years.
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I was going to suggest the synchronization but you took care of that. Glad to hear your baby is purring like new again.Woohoo! I had a gut feeling (and hoped) the crappy idle might be carb synch and not plugged jets and it was. It was so far off I'm guessing someone did it, there's no way it could wear/shift on it's own this badly. At idle two throttle plates were fully shut, one open about normal, and one way open. I don't have a synch set so I used the force and some engine whispering. I can now back the idle under 400RPM before it chugs and dies out, at 1100 I can barely feel it running and the clutch clatter is entirely gone. I can now feel the normal off-idle lean spot, but I'm going to enjoy riding 'till it gets shitty cold then re-jet and do a major service at the same time.
Its always good to go over the entire bike when you get a used bike.
Congrats on the amazing deal.
I love my 97 she has 68, 000 miles on her now and runs like new.
This winter I am hoping to pull all the plastics and repaint them and while they are off I want to try to lean out the main jets a tad.
I have a factory pro jet kit so I should be able to just lower the neddles a clip or 2. It is jetted for 800 ft above sea level and I am only about 40'. She has just been running so damn good I hate to mess with it but it may be even better when I am done.
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Great job Rick.
Congratulations
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Wow that is beautiful. Good luck. Wish I had the cash to snatch it up.
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John is correct. How much hassle you have depends on the supply house you purchased it from.
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If you do go gas you can line the old chimney for a couple hundred bucks. Its easy. Or go with direct vent through the wall. The equipment is more expensive but much better.
You won't regret getting away from oil if you do switch...
Regardless of the oil commercials. They are such bullshit. Lol
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I think you will be much happier with concrete. Wether you do 2" fiber reinforced or just a self leveler.
I would say it will hold up much better than the other stuff but then again I don't have any experience with the new stuff.
As for a ramp that is an easy fix.
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Oil is not efficient if that is what you are asking. Electric is 100% efficient because every bit of energy you use to produce heat is harnessed. Oil is only about 75-80% on hot water heaters. The reason they use very little fuel is because they only fire a maximum gpm of .75 I used to fire them down to .60-.65 gpm.
Oil you will never run out of hot water. They are dirty and require service every year.
I am a natural gas lover. From years of working with them I have learned to hate oil do to it being a filthy animal. Gas is much more efficient. Not so much on the hot water heaters but the furnaces are light years more efficient then oil. Oh and clean!!!!
But back to the HWH electric will work if you don't have a rw ally high demand for water. They don't produce nearly as much HW as oil or gas.
I know someone here will say oil produces more BTU per therm than gas but you are sending several hundred degrees of heat up and out the chimney whereas gas high efficiency units exhaust temp is less then 120º .
I converted my farther from oil to gas and saved him 2 thousand dollars the first season. Basically paid for the equipment in one year.
Your Bock tank should be under warranty so go back to where you bought the tank.
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Jowhee is onto something there. If everything with the water checked out then it must be some type of a backfeed of electric through the pipes. Oil heaters are typically heavier metal do to the heat they have to withstand. Check to see if anything is grounded to the pipes and change it to a ground rod outside the house.
Good luck.
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Way to go Mikey. Light to moderate exercise is going to help melt away your weight faster than you think.
Just choose what you eat wisely.
Rick if you hit 185 your gonna be one sexy bitch
I am at 187 as of this morning and have been trying to maintain my weight. I have just been making better choices and my normal exercise.
Keep at it guys your doing awesome.
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Wow... I never looked into that. I will be adding a trans cooler to my truck.If you really want to scare yourself, put a trans temp gauge on your truck and watch what it does even without pulling any load. It is RIDICULOUS how hot these things run with the tranny cooler going through the radiator like they do from the factory. Instead of using outside air temp as your baseline, your baseline is now whatever temp your truck runs at. So if your coolant is 200 degrees, that's where your tranny STARTS it's temp at. Check this out:
Here is a very important fact that you should memorize. Your transmission is designed to work at a maximum temperature of around 200 degrees. For every 20 degrees you go over 200 degrees, you cut the transmissions excepted life span by a factor of two. In other words, at 220 degrees your transmission will only last half as long as it was originally designed to. At 240 that number drops to ¼ the normal life expectancy. Get up to 260 degrees and that number drops to 1/8th. At 280 degrees it drops all the way down to 1/16th. Now you understand why its so important to keep your automatic transmission cool!
My van from the factory consistently hit 240 degrees trans fluid temp. May God have mercy on your soul if you tow with it. So what am I getting at? Change your fluid regularly (like 30,000 miles MAXIMUM) and convert to an EXTERNAL trans cooler.
I don't do any heavy hauling with it just light trailers but even still.
The truck has 207, 000 miles on it so I guess I am gonna count my blessings that it still runs as good as it does.
Thanks for the info.
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The operation was a complete success. Changed all 4 solenoids and my truck feels like new again.
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If you have a vacuum bleeder that will help remover the air.
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Careful with that arm. I'm limiting myself to oil changes. I even got Jess to do the bigger jobs.
Got her welding huh.... sweet.
I am being careful with my arm but my thought is the worst I can do is totally tare it and then the Dr has no choice but to surgically repair it.
Fuck it. They told me that if it didn't hurt I could do it so until it starts to hurt I push it. Its been a few weeks so the healing has started .
What is the Dr saying about your shoulder? How are you feeling?
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Today I am changing the shifting solenoids and the lockup solenoid because out of the blue on Sunday my SES light came on and it stopped shifting propperly. Came up with code po753 shift solenoid 1-2 electrical A
It seems to be a problem that occurrs mainly once it is heated up. At least yesterday when I first started driving it all seem ok again till it came up to temp. Then the light came on again and it stopped shifting correctly.
Anyone have any pointer/thoughts?
Everything I have read , watched , heard from others say it should be cut and dry. Hope all is correct.
The truck was shifting fine on Sat when I drove to North Jersey and put on over 250 miles round trip. Evenr Sun morning my son and I ran to the hardware store and it was fine. Few hrs later went out to pick up lunch and on the way home bam!!! It fucked up.
Brake lines on 02 Silverado.
in The Garage
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Mine cracked/rotted right at the hard bend before it hooks to the rubber line for the rear axle.
Take a good look at them just to be safe.