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XXMAN

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Posts posted by XXMAN

  1. Headlight never comes on even when bump started it doesn't dim it never comes on. The starter doesn't click or attempt to turnover at all.

    Might be silly idea...have you checked the bulb?

    How does a burned out headlight keep it from starting ? I do see your point as far as the headlight not working but getting it to started is my first priority.

  2. Nothing to be concerned about.

    At your leasure order up a replacement and swap the noisy one out.

    I'm replacing mine today, right now, too actually at 32,000 kms and hoping it will make my engine sound like a sewing machine. So far it has taken me more time to get the plastic off (first time I've done it) than to remove the cct.

    Are there manually tensioned versions as options too?

    Opinions on manual ones?

    I don't sell manual ones so I don't like them at all! :icon_whistle:

    Ordered today.

  3. On my way to a meet in Arkansas, my voltmeter started reading low. FWIW, replaced the R/R this winter (did wire loom fix, checked all connectors) and the stator tested fine. Soldered the wires together...no connection with loose gaps.

    Bike ran fine at two events in the last month.

    Today, I notice it's under 13v. My "self assuring" thought is that the R/R is "clamping down" on voltage because the battery is at max charge (by this point, I had been on the road at highways speeds of 75+ with tach in 4.5 range for 5-6 hours with only stops for gas). I've seen it happen before....and after a while it goes back up again after the battery has discharged enough to need more charging.

    For a bit, I even see it momentarily dip to 11.9/12.0v.

    The rest of my ride, the reading is hanging around 12.5...rarely over 13.0, but I'm but tooling down the highway. No need for 14.5-14.8v if the battery is staying fully charged, right?

    Could it again be the voltmeter wires coming loose? Unlikely. It's wired to the Fuzeblock and reads right off the battery. The wires do have a quick disconnect plug, but it's highly unlikely to come loose from anything (holds a lot tighter than what I set up the first time).

    I have no access to a multimeter to see if the battery is reading true to the meter.

    I'm in Tunica, MS (just south of Memphis) at the Fitz Casino/Hotel. My cell number is 423-217-2617. I'm paying for Wi-Fi (grr), but the cell phone will be more reliable to reach me at any time.

    I don't want to head home tomorrow. My plan is to go to the rally and if need be just camp out in town for 2 days and go straight home...salvage what I can from this trip.

    Any advice?

    ***

    Hotel maintenance guy let me use his multimeter. Voltmeter reads true.

    11.7v and not budging when I rev the motor up to and over 5K.

    HID lamps make it hard to tell if the system is charging or not.

    Noteworthy Point: Even at 11.7v, HID headlight came on w/no problem, cranked and started w/no problem or the HID blinking (often result of voltage drop the capacitor hasn't yet built up enough reserve to compensate for)>

    http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=53455 Thank Hobie all you need to know about your stator.

  4. How often should you replace cct ? My motor sounds like it has marbles when I start it. I have replaced it once before but it has been awhile bike has over 42000 miles. I am guessing it needs a new one should I be concerned ?

  5. Thank you for helping the mechanically challenged ! I set meter to acv then tested even reving the highest I could get was eight volts.

    Yep, stator's fucked.

    Had a feeling replaced RR not that long ago but I did want to order a part and find out it was the other so thanks again.

    I'll be calling for pricing tomorrow for some other things... want me to see about the price on a Rick's stator?

    I already got it covered thanks so much.

    I replaced stator turned meter to acv now at idle I get 18 to 18.5 that sound right I am going on a long ride and don't want to get stranded.

    Yes, that sounds good. If you rev the engine, you should see it climb quickly to 80+ VAC.

    And, of course... do a running battery test: With everything connected, put your meter on DC and test across the battery terminals. When you rev up the motor (4000+rpm) it should climb to between 14 and 15v, assuming your battery is charged when you start.

    She is fix !!!!! Thanks so much.

  6. Thank you for helping the mechanically challenged ! I set meter to acv then tested even reving the highest I could get was eight volts.

    Yep, stator's fucked.

    Had a feeling replaced RR not that long ago but I did want to order a part and find out it was the other so thanks again.

    I'll be calling for pricing tomorrow for some other things... want me to see about the price on a Rick's stator?

    I already got it covered thanks so much.

    I replaced stator turned meter to acv now at idle I get 18 to 18.5 that sound right I am going on a long ride and don't want to get stranded.

  7. Thank you for helping the mechanically challenged ! I set meter to acv then tested even reving the highest I could get was eight volts.

    Yep, stator's fucked.

    Had a feeling replaced RR not that long ago but I did want to order a part and find out it was the other so thanks again.

    I'll be calling for pricing tomorrow for some other things... want me to see about the price on a Rick's stator?

    I already got it covered thanks so much.

  8. Thank you for helping the mechanically challenged ! I set meter to acv then tested even reving the highest I could get was eight volts.

    Yep, stator's fucked.

    Had a feeling replaced RR not that long ago but I did want to order a part and find out it was the other so thanks again.

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