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StPeteXX

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Posts posted by StPeteXX

    Digital Instrument / Gauges not working

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I don't have a wiring diagram for a '97, but the wiring diagram for a '99 shows fuse "F", 10 amp Clock, to provide common power to all the gauges. Have you double-checked that fuse, and the wire from it to the dash panel for voltage?

    I'll triple check that when I get home. Thanks!!

    Rich

    Digital Instrument / Gauges not working

    in The Garage

    Posted

    A little backgound on my '97 XX. My R/R failed about 2 years ago. I replaced it with an inexpensive one from eBay. I got about 8 months out of it before it failed. In the process, it killed my Dyna 2000 ingnition (now repaired by Dyna with a new board), fried starter relay, cooked the battery and did unknown damage to the instrument panel. The instrument panel lights all come on, however none of the gauges work. No tach, no speedo, no fuel gauge. Grounds have been checked and rechecked. New R/R is from a GL1500, which will handle more than I will ever ask of it. Everything is repaird and back in working order with the exception of no gauges.

    Is there any service out there that repairs instrument panels? I have a very low mileage Bird (under 20k) so if I go used, a low mileage one would be necessary.

    Thanks for any help or guidance.

    Rich

    Instrument gauge cluster needed

    in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted

    Posted

    Hello everyone!! It has been forever. Life gets busy for sure.

    I had yet another RR fail and pretty much do some significant electrical damage. Dyna ignition, starter relay, battery, ect....

    Last thing needing to be replaced is the digital instrument cluster. It's a 1997 but I switched it out with the digital cluster some years ago with another board member.

    I would like to install another digital cluster if anyone has one available.

    Thank you in advance. I miss riding my XX !!

    Shotgun & Pistol 4 Sale (Price Drop)

    in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted

    Posted

    Price Drop $650

    The ammo is "about 1200 rounds of 9" and some of it is Hydra Shock defense. (I believe about 50+ rounds)

    The holster is a Comp Tac Minotaur MTAC Holster $80 bucks and they charge $15 to ship.

    I can find the shotty shells to count them...but I have some.

    I have the original carry case for the Springfield.

    I am sure I have a few other odds and ends too.

    Let me know by EMAIL if you have interest.

    Have a great weekend.

    Dave

    Is that $650 shipped?

    Rich

    RR dead? Black smoke and burnt wire smell?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    R/R replaced with new connector. Everything wired correctly.

    Bike was still dead. Nothing, no clock, headlights, nothing. Battery was fine.

    Turned out the connector on the starter relay was crispy too. Replaced that and all is well !!

    Bike runs great. No flickering of the HID anymore either.

    Thanks again for the help and guidance !!

    Rich

    RR dead? Black smoke and burnt wire smell?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Kinda spendy.. but what are ya gonna do?

    Perhaps, but there is something called an "administrative cost" to doing things.

    You can spend 2 hours looking for something that will do the job a little cheaper, but what is that 2 hours of your time worth?

    I got the Fuzeblock for my XX, and it was almost $90 with shipping....ouch.

    Still, I don't have the skills of others here who could whip up a homemade device in an afternoon. To put something together with something cheaper would mean buying other parts needed to make it do the same thing.

    In the end, the guy did the design and testing to make a quality product. Unless I can make my own easily, it's worth the $$$ for someone who did the work for me.

    Paid almost $700 to fix the truck A/C at a shop (w/2 year warranty). Not happy about that, but I might have saved $100-150 in parts by doing it myself (but 1 year warranty max) and still have to bring it in for shop to evacuate and charge the system. Add in the time and aggravation to do it on my time, and the labor charge (while unwelcome) was easier than doing it myself. I only have reason to be pissed if the repair work doesn't last well beyond the warranty period.

    You pay to avoid the hassle of doing it the hard way. :icon_biggrin:

    My thoughts exactly. I bought one right away. I have no desire to fabricate my own connector or spend forever searching for one. The spendy part was also the shipping. Originally they wanted just under $15. I had them verify if that was the correct shipping price as I typically can ship 16lb bowling balls anywhere in the US for about that same price. They gave me a "discount" code which reduced shipping to $7.50. Total is $21.xx shipped.

    Rich

    I'll keep ya posted on how it turns out.

    RR dead? Black smoke and burnt wire smell?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Yeah, I haven't been able to find a source for the Honda connector with the wide pins for +/-

    I found this site for generic pin connectors for vehicles.

    http://www.vintageconnections.com/

    The only problem is that you have to order like a bag of 5 of them for any given set. If you want the unlatching kind, you can just get the latching kind and snap the latch off so you always have the option.

    Thanks for the link. I checked the site. Which connector is it that I need?

    Any other ideas for a connector source? What have other's done?

    Rich

    RR dead? Black smoke and burnt wire smell?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Ok, so I went and pulled the fried rectifier. I pulled the connector off and sure enough, yellow end wire is burnt all to shit.

    Now, can I yank that wire out and simply replace the spade connector and plug it back in or will I need a complete new connector? Any clue what size spade connector it needs.

    Can post some pics if needed.

    Rich

    RR dead? Black smoke and burnt wire smell?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Yes, it could have, but its probably fine. Use the flowchart on that eBay link and do some diagnostics just like it says. If you don't have a meter, pick up a cheap one at Harbor Freight for less than $5.

    Nope, don't have a meter. Good excuse to run over to HF. I think I have a few coupons for free LED flashlights :icon_evilgrin::icon_evilgrin:

    Just got a shipping notification from seller. That was FAST !!

    I appreciate the help and the quick find on the part !

    Rich

    RR dead? Black smoke and burnt wire smell?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    A little research pointed me to this:

    http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/...gulator-Rectifi

    Does that look about right?

    Battery was replace about 9 months or so ago.

    That one will do. If your battery was new 9 months or 9 years ago, it still won't start your bike now. Make sure that it takes and holds a good charge.

    Also check this link...close to you and should be quick shipping.

    Great find Joe!! Bought and paid for. Thank you !

    The battery seemed fine and has started the bike just fine until yesterday when I had the meltdown. Could the battery have been damaged as a result?

    Rich

    RR dead? Black smoke and burnt wire smell?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I removed the cowl and the regulator looks a bit discolored? It's stinks like burnt wire!

    There's also some dark spots on the rear foot bracket.

    I'll post up some pics.

    Don't forget, just about anything mechanical/electrical is like doing brain surgery for me. I get frustrated way too fast, especially when I have no clue what I am doing.

    thank you all for the help/assistance.

    Rich

    RR dead? Black smoke and burnt wire smell?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    So, I pull into my driveway, dismount the XX and notice a burning wire type smell. I then notice black smoke comming out from the kick stand side of the bike from under the tail section. I shut bike off, remove seat and it smells like burt wire. I turn key and all lights come on, but no start.

    Does that sound anything like a failed R/R?

    Machine is a 1997 with roughly 18k miles.

    Rich

    Replacing HID kit / Remove front cowl .. HELP !

    in The Garage

    Posted

    So when you fall off the face of the earth, is it just one giant loop to get back?

    Yep, it's just one giant loop!! The journey wasn't the greatest, but I made it out alive :icon_biggrin:

    I'm back.. think I may have some photos to share :icon_evilgrin:

    Thanks for the warm welcomes!

    Oh yeah, and the baby we were expecting.... He's turning 4 on 9/25. :icon_whistle:

    Rich

    Replacing HID kit / Remove front cowl .. HELP !

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Holy fucking shit! Look who's back.

    Welcome back.

    I wasn't sure if you all would remember me or not :icon_whistle: I'll see if I can dig up any hot chicks posing on the XX to post up :icon_evilgrin:

    SPEED99 has graciously offered to help me out like he did the first time. I'll get frustrated in about 2 seconds and just walk away and drink a beer or 3.

    Replacing HID kit / Remove front cowl .. HELP !

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Hello long time friends!! It's been forever since I've posted. Getting married, kids and working waaay too much has taken it's toll ! :icon_whistle:

    Anyways... I've gotten back into ridding the XX again. I think I have put 1500 miles on it in the last 3 years, maybe less.

    Here's an issues I'm having. The low beam HID that Rick (In Clearwater, forget his username) installed for me probably 5 years ago is finally giving up the ghost. It's strobing like crazy which typically means the ballast is going. I ordered a new DDM kit in 5k flavor.

    I don't recall how he removed the front cowl. I am not the most mechanically inclined person and I am certainly the first one to admit it. I'll get frustrated within the first 10 minutes and throw everything out into the street :-). Are there any photos of step by step process of removing front cowl or just some simple tips that I can print out?

    By the way, the DDM kits come with two bulbs/ballasts if anyone wants to split the cost. It was $46 shipped so I guess $25 shipped to you would be fair?

    Thanks for any and all assistance.

    Sorry for being such a stranger for way too long. Hope to be posting a lot more and hopefully see you all at another FUXXT event (does Rick still host them?)

    Rich

    Gorgeous '03 FL 'Bird - SOLD!

    in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted

    Posted

    I can't be more than 15-20 minutes away from where this XX. I'm in St Petersburg also.

    If anyone would like me to go take a look and perhaps send more photos, let me know.

    I can also store it in my garage if an out of area member can't pick it up right away. It'll keep my XX company.

    Can't promise that I won't sit on it naked though :icon_whistle::icon_whistle:

    Rich

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