TitaniumBird

So I went back to the drawing board and re-tested. Looks like I'm not getting much of any voltage while the bike is running from the loom side of the (three yellow) wires stator. I'm putting the leads of the test meter in various combinations on the yellow wires and getting readings of either 0 vdc or .02 volts where it's supposed to be 50 volts. Sound right? Meanwhile stator checks out okay when not running checking between yellows, resistance is all under .05. I'm so lost with this stuff. Sounds like stator is bad eh?

For some reason I'm a little retarded when it comes to comprehnsion of some of the text out there on how to test this stuff. I found this on another board and it makes more sense to me than some of the other things I've read. Motorcycle Electrical Parts (ElectroSport Industries)http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_fault_finding.html First check continuity of each of the yellow wire to a ground. You need a multi meter. All three wires should NOT have contunity. Then check the resistance of each wire. They should be at .5 or below. Then with the bike ideling with the three stator wires unplugged, used your multimeter to cross between 2 of the yellow wires doing all the possible combinations. In other words. there are 3 wires. A B C. Check A-B, then B-C, then A-C. The wires should have 50 volts each. If they are less or uneven, there your problem. You should also check contunity from the green wire in the rectifier/regulator harness to the negative side of the battery.. Then check the voltage from the red wire in the rectifier/regulator harness to the negative side of the battery. The voltage should be the same as when you just measure the battery directly. If it is less you have a short in the harness somewhere.

I'm finally getting around to sorting out my charging issue. Battery is good, stator is good (.2 to .3 ohm across the three yella wires) and the regulator doesn't do anything like the tests that pinned electrical debug documents suggests. So, I'm going to replace the regulator, now just a matter of what parts. This post mentions using the R1 R/R on the bird, does this stand true for a 2000 FI bird or should I just go with OEM?? If you can go with the R/R for the Yamaha is there any modification required (soldering etc) or does it plug right into the existing loom? EDIT: Oh yeah, a part number would ROCK if anyone does have a lock on the R1 R/R, otherwise I'll just go with OEM, I don't want to get into hacking the part, I have enough trouble with electrical stuffs. So like, HELP! Thanks, K-

This fall is going to be the time for this, anyone able to come up with the code for 00 Titanium? Preferred PPG Now I just have to find a shop that'll do it.

I've got a few scuffs, dings, scratches from the last 7 years of abuse on my 00. I'm thinking about a total repaint and doing a little custom work. I'm thinking about anti-decal, nothing to indicate what it is and going with the same color (titanium) only throwing some ghost flames in a slightly tinted darker version of the same color. Anyone seen anything like this, sound cheesey? Goes without saying "use flex additive in the paint. Consider the corbine bags with paint scheme ideas. Second question is, is it a bitch to get "all" the body work off the bike? Meaning, is the front upper a pain in the ass, that's the only piece I've never taken off.

Hehe, perfect, I realized my mistake right after ordering it, I should have emailed SW right away, they're too fast. My new tire is here already and it'll be too sticky, wear to fast. I'm going to get a pilot road and sell the pilot power. Wanna buy it? I'll throw it up on ebay for what I paid on sw, it'll go quick.

Any issue with putting a Pilot Power on the rear with an Avon AV45 ST up front? Had the Avon AV46 in the rear but it's not available any more...

Cool, hadn't tried to remove the cap with the fairing on, I always want to do it when it's hot naturally, while it's making noise since I'm thinking about it, when it's cool, I'm like, ahh screw it. lol Guess I'll take a walk out there now, it's cool. Gargling, yeah, I usually don't listen either, but it's pretty notice-able. Sounds like something isn't quite right.

I know, it sounds funny... It's always run hot, they all do from what I hear. I think i might have the ever so slightest leak in the cooling system. Tell me if I'm off base. When I shut down you can hear the coolant gurgling around, like it's boiling somewhere... Now, the levels are good, and it runs cool enough as long as you're moving. I'm using water wetter and keep an eye on the level all seems well. Do you guys pull the fairing and check it from the cap or the reserve tank is good enough? Thnx,

10.5K on the front tire? It's cupped, that's your issue. Replace that sneaker ASAP.

Yeah, I'm anxious for the ride home to see if it wasn't in my head or just the crisp chilled spring morning dew filled air. You know engines love that stuff.

Well something works... I just had my bird inspected, while I was at the shop chatting with the mechanic while he was putting the sticker on my bike. (suzuki/yamaha dealer) We were talking about the fuel prices and all the scooters that are flying out the showroom doors and I mentioned in passing that my bird wasn't getting the greatest milage lately. He asked me if I'd ever run any injector cleaner through it. No, I hadn't, never even thought about it, just turning 30K this season on my 2K Bird. I had just filled up before getting the inpection so I picked up a bottle of the suzuki labelled stuff and threw half of it into the tank and rode the whole one mile back to my house and parked it. Didn't ride all weekend, and Monday it rained... Today, I hop on board and strike out for work and wow. It was either just one of those "good days" were all conditions are right or that stuff really did something but it's like riding another bike, a really fast one. lol I'm shocked, she was coming up in 3rd, which I don't recall happening unless I was forcing the issue, wheel spin on take-off all sorts of things that I don't remember. So, is it just running hot, the addative providing a little extra boost or is it really working on the injection system?? I was sceptical at best, but after I run this tank dry and refill, I'm very curious to see future behavior. Also, I had been experiencing a really rough idle which seems to have departed, I guess it's entirely possible that I had some seriously gummed injectors. I'm going to have to be more careful now, she's been unleashed! ha! Anyone have similar experience?

I've ordered from them several times, all were good but one. Last year I ordered I new rear tire, they send me a D205 when I ordered a D208, I never even looked at it, just threw it on the bike, only looked at it when it wore out in like 3000 miles... Oh well.

Got my new CCT from John01XX today, had it installed 15min after opening the package and I'm so excited! I'd had the noise in my top end for easily two seasons now, and being new to the board, I read various other posts about it, and was like, "hey, that's MY noise". Anyway, top end is quiet as a church mouse, I can't wait to take her out tomorrow and not hear that lousy clatter. Funny, last year during in inspection I asked the mechanic about it (susuki shop) and he was clueless. You'd think there would be some kind of cross knowlege with these guys, he didn't give a rats ass though... His only comment was, don't worry about it, it won't likely hurt anything. Clutch basket is the other noise, Honda mechanic said not to worry about that either, very common for this bike. Minor quirks all, I LOVE THIS BIKE! Thanks to all for the various posts and advice to others on this, very helpful, the R&R on the CCT was cake after viewing the various briefs on it.

Cut the Blue wire! That should defuse it. Good luck. That's a Canadian heater? They don't look anything like that down here, looks like a fucking time machine or something.

I'm thinking about taking it apart, the little cam piece, part of the thumb switch that does the locking. I'm thinking about building that up with a little JB Weld, raise up the lock pressure a little. Maybe try the oil under the grip idea first, a little tri-flow under there sounds like it might do the trick. I'd like to have it work, I often find that I'd like to have my right hand free for a break, or to warm up this time of year.

I ordered up an NEP throttle lock after asking around a little. I had to cut a little off the tab that sits between the dual throttle cables and I've found that it does indeed hold the throttle but slowly backs off. I can use the adjuster and tighten to just where it starts to bind with normal throttle function. When set though, it slowly backs off... Anyone run into this and find a solution? I should have just broke the bank and ordered one of the ones that works on the bar end...

That kind of thing makes me sick... If you managed to get something that grips, the only other thing I might suggest is an impact tool. Those things are brilliant for breaking things loose when there is little to work with. On another note, you don't HAVE to take the fender off to remove the front wheel, I've done it, cuz I'm lazy... Just have to jack the front end up a little. Good luck!

Maybe they weren't right from factory, but I'd be a little concerned... I just had my valves checked and clearence was within spec (first time it was checked with 40K miles on her).