Elefant
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Posts posted by Elefant
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I'm sorry for the confusion, I'm not in US, Europe, Asia, Australia. Me in Kuwait and I beleive I have a good offer on a Honda CBR 1100 xx. Since I'm new to Bikes I thought of learning how to differentiate models from each year. Hope someone can help me from here. Thanks
You are NEW to bikes? And looking at XXs? Good luck to you !!!
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The purpose of the question was to find a Bstone that would go until the front B57 needs replacement (about 2-3k miles?) and hopefully change both (old 57 front and new rear) at the same time late winter or early spring. I don't want to throw away a perfectly good front. Not just the $. There is enough trash out there already. I will commute in the winter as long as it is above freezing. 20 miles of interstate each way. So regardless of mileage, which one is a better (grip) winter COLD tire? The 12S or the 14?
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I've never ridden on a Bridgestone, but a lot members think they suck. Based on my experience and those of others I'll be riding Michelin Pilot Powers for a long time.
http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...c=37446&hl=
What can I say... I've been riding many many years and gone down twice. Once at the track and once out of a blind exit 90 degree corner. Both times I was on Michelins. And nearly lost it quite a few times. So I won't touch Michelins again with a 200' pole. Good marketing or not. Besides, they're french!!
Bought BT10s when they first came out and didn't like them. BT57s that came with the bike seem ok.
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I've got 5k miles off the original rear BT57. Looks like the front can probably do another ~3k. I was thinking about a BT12SS and then switch them both front BT57 and rear BT12SS but winter is approaching so I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the handling of the BT12SS in cold tarmac when compared to the BT20.
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I need help, please. I just bought a new 2007 Honda FIT. It came with your OEM SP tires and the tire says MAX pressure 51PSI and the door jam on the car says Max pressure of 32PSI. I called Honda USA and they recommended that I contact you. Please advise me as to which pressure I should follow...the PSI on the tire or the PSI on the door jam.
Thanks,
David Krauthamer
They've already given you the answer
" and the door jam on the car says Max pressure of 32PSI"
I think you'll get the same ...... 32PSI
51PSI is the max the tire will take before it blows up.... or something...
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There's 2 types of Mud Jacking systems out there.....
1 uses a thin Mortar typ liquid to raise the slab Hydrolicly.
The other uses an Expandable Foam liquid
Both work, and will lift the entire slab if needed.... or they can lift any parts in varying degrees, Like the Garage side 2" and the side walk 1".... etc.
The Mortar pump has to drill larger holes....
But I think the Foam units fill the voids under the slab better as they do them in Lifts.
I've had experience with both... out on the Roadway..... even carrying semi tractor trailer traffic. They both work. But the Foam slab did eventually give way under the Semi Tailers whereas the Mortar slab did not. (but there's alot more to that story..... so don't worry about your driveway.... unless you let Concrete trucks rutinely turn around on your pad.)
Do you think it's worth going thru all that expense for a driveway?
He can get the paving stones and some epoxy and glue them up. Or better yet, I'd get some cold patch, wait for a hot day when the sun is hitting good and build the transition to allow for smooth driving.
And he'll get some from his CEO that same night after doing it all by himself !!!!
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Remove the bar ends and thread the screw back in. Near the ends of the bars are 1 or 2 holes (can't remember) stick a small screw driver in the hole to depress a lock ring that holds the weights in. Pull the screw and the weight will come out. It's easier with the bars on the bike. Also try spraying a little WD40 in any hole in the bars to lube the rubbers
They can be hard to pull out, so don't be afraid to pull hard.
Thanks. I tried that but I guess I didn't pull hard enough. I'll clamp'em on the vice. Didn't lube the rubber either
...On the matter of riding possition.... What a difference....
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So, I've picked up and installed the VFR bars. Thank you Mr. Dremmel!! But how do I remove the bar ends from the XX's bars... :icon_think:
I've searched... no dice...
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I am considering an exhaust change, but I just put on the OEM panniers (from Sport Touring Accessories) which will stay on the bike permenantly. My questions are: If I go with slip ons, (I'm leaning towards titanium, or stainless) does oval have an advantage over round, will oval fit? What are the pros and cons between Staintunes, Blue Flames, Jardine, or Erions? My goal is to keep the exhaust quiet as possible (stealth mode so as to not draw attention from "The man") with gaining torque, and losing the weight of the OEM cans. If a "Ti Force" or "Akropoviac" full system (4 into 1) will clear my panniers will it be much louder than stock?, is the oil filter still accessible?, will the center stand still be usable? I really don't want to remap the FI because I have no jerkyness or bucking what so ever. Staintunes claim no jetting or computer work is necessary. I don't care about gaining top end (when I blew around a fat tire HD at 148 mph indicated, I had a shit stain in my skivvies), meaning this bike is faster than I'll ever need. This is an 02 Bird with a completely stock engine. Opinions please!
I'm on the same boat you are. I would LOVE to get the "euro-legal" Akrapovic but it looks like they are not loud enough so nobody brings them here. And I ain't paying the 1200 euros they cost over there. My other option is the 'tunes which I should be getting soon. I like louder than stock but I don't want to be obnoxious about it. So 'tunes it will be for me.
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It's so simple...Your bird is pissed off you went for vacation and it was left all alone in the dark garage. Now it's going to hunt you for a while until yoy buy a nice suspension upgrade
Absolutely right! Although it does have a Penske.
Anyway, got home after work and figured I'd give it another go. hit the starter.....
13 secs later BIG POP! (I was timing it) figured "yougonnastartorbust"... kept spinning... 28secs HUGE POP... 32secs it started.
Put 65 miles since and hasn't missed a beat.
So I figured sitting in a detached HOT garage for 3.5 weeks must have left it dry... or something...
Thanks to all who have made suggestions.
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Assuming battery voltage is indeed OK and the starter does not sound lethargic in any way you then have a choice to make here. You could pull the starter and do a simple bench test to check the bendix or you can try rotating the engine by hand (spark plugs out) to try a different spot on the flywheel for the bendix to engage to….
I think I didn't explain myself right. Starter and crank spin. Engine doesn't "catch on". Battery fully charged and starter spinning like there's no tomorrow. Even got backfire once the compression builds up. I'm hoping to avoid having to pull the plugs out. Ya know.... dismantling half the front end to get to them... I tend to think it's FI/ignition related... As if no spark got to the combustion chambers... Coils? Ignition module/modules.... Something of that nature. The red FI light does its testing/checking thing...
I did wash it/dry it/started it right before I went on vacation after an 1800 mile trip to Philly-Indy(Formula1 USGP)-Nashville-Philly but put no miles on it after clean up. Maybe water sat "somewhere" for 3 weeks?
Anyone knows the "testing codes" and how to make'em show on the display?
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I've been away on vacation for three weeks. Left the bike on the tender. Went to the garage, hit the starter, and it attempted to start but about half second shy of starting, it quit cranking. The starter will spin but doesn't seem to spin the crank. Took off the negative pole thinking "something" would reset itself but no go.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. The only dealer I trust is 130 miles away....
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I'm thinking it may be easier to take off the wheel, undo the bottom, drop the swing arm and keep eveything else in place? No?
Where did you install the reservoir? I got it with a 19" long hose :icon_think: !!!!
Nah, I think it's easier NOT to take the wheel out, unless you're going to be changing the rear tire anyway. The greater pain in the ass is getting at the top bolt and nut from under the tank. I did have to use a universal link on my socket extension I pushed in from the left side of the subframe in order to torque the top bolt to spec, but I don't kow how anyone could do it otherwise, whether wheel and/or tank are completely removed or not.
I strapped the reservoir against the top subframe rail just above the handle (for getting the bike up on the centerstand) and just below but outside the edge of the seat. Tip: with someone else holding the reservoir tightly (shock already installed), I VERY slightly loosened the fitting on the reservoir so I could rotate the reservoir so that when I strapped it against the sub frame, the knurled compression adjustment knob would be between a 12 and 1 o'clock position (looking at it from front of bike). It would have been at about 3 o'clock and much harder to get at without that tweak. Of course, I tightened it back up and then installed with the supplied rubber cushions and hose clamps. That little adjustment put the adjuster knob in a place that, when you remove the seat, is between the plastic cowl and the subframe -- easily accessible for adjustment, but invisible with the seat and seat cowl in place. Very clean result.
10-4.
4 Smithwick's and the rear cowl out so far. At this rate, i don't think a case will do it...
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I know... I'm a lazy ass...
Yes, from another lazy ass who wondered the same thing -- as long as it's up on teh center stand. In fact, even though the service manual tells you to remove the tank (at least for FI models), I was able to get it out, reinstalled and torqued to proper settings by only lifting the tank from the rear. Helps to have all the necessary tools to reach with, and a floor jack to lift the swingarm (with wheel in it) in very small increments. I did need to remove the seat cowl, the left side footpeg and the left side exhaust hanger/passenger footpeg (I have a 4-2-1 exhaust system on it anyway).
Shit! I told you I'm a lazy ass !!! Damn! I just finished replacing the steering bearings and races on the Gran Canyon (what a royal pain in the arse it was dismantling half the bike) and now this...
I suppose I either do it myself (and quit whinning) or spend some green and have it done...
I'm thinking it may be easier to take off the wheel, undo the bottom, drop the swing arm and keep eveything else in place? No?
Where did you install the reservoir? I got it with a 19" long hose :icon_think: !!!!
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Look good
Feel Better
We can afford them.
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Would I be able to get the stock shock off with the rear wheel on? The clearance on the swing arm looks tight with it on.
I figured I'd ask someone who's done it ....
I know... I'm a lazy ass...
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Tail
in The Garage
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The problem I'm having is that I'm getting dropped in the twisties by smaller bikes, and well bigger bikes too. This is due to the fact that the XX only starts to pull from 7K up, and normally in the Mpumalanga area in South Africa there isn't enough room to hit the 7K mark before you need to grab a handfull of brakes and put the bike into the next turn.
Sorry man!
Mpumalanga or Tumbuctu! A smaller bike in the twisties will ALWAYS drop the XX like a bad habit! That's with the same rider. Let alone if the rider on the smaller one is better..... bye bye baby!!
BEsides, after that statement you insist in going BIGGER? :icon_think: What!? You want two handfulls on the brakes? On a drag strip perhaps. On the twisties... :icon_nono: fat chance ! Is the corner speed and handling, NOT the straight away speed. All that gain is lost settling the bike to attack the turn and go thru it.
Save your money and get yourself a smaller "twisty friendly" bike !!!
The lighter the better... -
If you are looking to keep things clean, the Honda HP Chain Lube is the best I've used.
Ditto. Older red can. Not newer blue.
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When I started puching the bike hard through the corners I had to fight the bike to keep it in the turn. The bike would stand up the harder I pushed it.
Please remember that I'm only weighing in at around 150 pounds, and only stands about 5'12" tall.
I then changed the 5mm spacer for a 2.5mm spacer and did the same test.
Found that the bike held the line a lot better.
With both the spacers in, I can not spin the rear wheel when the XX is on it's centre stand. Is this normal?
I have also noticed that when I run the bike hard, keep it above 7k rpm, while exiting a couple of turns the nose becomes very light. This is normally not a problem, but on shorter tracks this isn't always ideal as the next turn is up very quickly after the exit.
Lastly, with both spacers in I did also notice that on one hairpin I always now lock the rear wheel up. This might also be because I still have the linked brake system, or maybe just because the weight has moved forward a bit?
I'm just realy interrested and would really like to be able to make the XX a bit more track competative than what it is currently.
5'12" = 6' !!!
The spacer thing doesn't surprise me. Mine is stock and has about 1" clearance when on the centre stand.
7k light front? As it should be. THe higher, the lighter...
Rear lock is due to both. linked and front byas. It's happened to me on occasion on the street.... I'm thinking about putting some Galfer black pads in the back and gold race in the front. Less likely to lock up the rear..
Just my two cents.... The blackbird is a CBR but an XX at it. It'll never be an RR. No matter how hard you try. Heavy an "pigish" handling on the race track. Grand Touring machine. Going for a blast on any given track day? Fine! Worried about lap times? Forget about it....
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How are the wheels holding up for others who are using them? Is 35 ft. lbs. posing no problem for the rear axle torque? Any other suggestions and things to look out for? I need a feel good. Thanks.
Greg
I have a set on the 851 (black V6) and haven't had a problem. Also have white three spoke Magnesium Hi-Point (same company before the name change) on the 944 SS SP and no problems either....
Feel better now?
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How the hell do I get to it?
Search's turned out empty....
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I've got an '03 but like the older analog speedo waaay better. I was wondering if an '00 speedo (FI bike with analog speedo) might work? Or even one from a carb'd bike.....
I'm sure someone knows the answer....
Lazy Man's Penske Install
in The Garage
Posted
I'm 170 lbs with a 1200 lb spring