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XXBirdSlapper

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Posts posted by XXBirdSlapper

  1. 9 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:


    Or just replace the damn caliper.  It was less work and time than trying to extract the nipple.

    There is that. If you have time to let the heat cycling and penetrating oil work it's really not much different than replacing the caliper, time wise

  2. 19 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

    Always drill the biggest hole possible and use the largest extractor you can.  If you used the extractor that would fit into the existing hole, of course it broke.  Once you break an extractor in a hole you're usually fucked.

    I don't agree with this. If you are too close to root diameter the screw extractor will expand what is essentially now a sleeve making it more difficult to extract as twisting the extractor forces it to expand. I start well below max size, and that way if it strips you redrill to the next size. If you gain experience a small drive impact can be used to "burp" it to shock it loose. Zero is not in this club.

  3. 5 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:


    I asked the clerk.  I didn’t know there was other options.  When I returned it, the clerk said it was junk and he didn’t know why they bothered carrying it.  In the future, when buying a tool, I’ll ask what my options are rather than take whatever they pull from the shelf.

    Shop an industrial supply store that sells high quality cutting tools. Not fat boy's auto supply.

  4. 7 hours ago, jon haney said:

    Heat-treat may have not happened

    If not, it would have resisted snapping and bent/stripped. A proper screw extractor should have differential heat treat, but shade tree mechanics ain't paying the up charge 

  5. 5 hours ago, CALCXX said:

    Mike, I have also snapped off small extractors and taps by using a cresent wrench. It's too easy to side load the extractor or tap.

    I stopped doing that. Use a T-handle anytime an extractor or tap are needed.

    THIS. A socket in a t handle also. I have tap wrenches, some with socket drive incorporated into the design. Adjustable wrench is NOT appropriate.

    • Upvote 1
  6. 8 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

    When the other caliper seized, they wanted over $500 for both sides (not necessary), and they were quoting parts I knew don’t exist or have no need for the replacement of the caliper.  This is a shop my mom went to for tires but I warn everyone to avoid them.

    From a business in that situation I would have done both sides as well. They could be liable in an accident and it proper practice to do both. And now here you are. Should have done it then.

  7. 8 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

    was a screw extractor.  You could see it twisting as you tried to remove the nipple.  That’s poor quality metal.  I should have stripped out the stub before the tool showed any stress.  Very unhappy.

    Brand and size? Even high speed tool steel taps twist when using them. You can see it and feel it in smaller sizes particularly. 

      How were you holding the screw extractor?

  8. 2 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:


    Opposite side needed replacement.

     

    It’s going to the mechanic now.  The tool was pot metal BS (steel…my ass) and broke off.  I’m not fucking with it anymore.

    Not understanding anything you're posting. If this is a car, and a caliper froze up I'd suspect moisture in the brake fluid and or worn or damaged seals caused corrosion. Same with the bleeder. If it's a steel bleeder in an iron caliper broken off flush and you want to try removing it, my method is multiple applications of a torch, water quench, over and over. Last time just let it air cool and soak in penetrating oil and let it sit overnight. Time and repetition is your ally. Don't even try the ez out till you've done the above.

      I Just replaced one caliper on my car with a snapped bleeder because it was a low cost and faster option.

  9. 3 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:


    Well, you criticized using wood to make a draft piece.  I say it would be fine to attain the desired shape and size…then use it as a template for making it from better materials.  Unless you can re-smelt metal at home, why waste a good piece of metal when you haven’t determined the final form?

    The final form was created on the CAD file. Have we regressed to the days of wood pattern making??

  10. 6 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

     

    Well, it would work for a test fitting and brief testing.  If it's right, use it as a template for one made of better materials.

    Or you could just buy a proper one and not fuck around.

    A friend of mine in manufacturing machined one for his race car, and began producing them. It's in his office as a paperweight as the Chinese copies flooded the market at a price he can't get close to matching. I recall them readily available for many automotive applications 35 years ago.

  11. 2 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

    Yes, one in each of the eight cylinders.

    A gasoline saturated block of wood directly under a gasoline container with additional fuel being delivered under pressure is going to turn the whole engine compartment into barbecue pit. There's a reason they use materials that don't absorb gasoline.

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