kiwimack
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Posts posted by kiwimack
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Hi Lyle,
I live in Lonehill, Sandton. Both my son and I have Blackbirds (mine is a '97 with 190k+ km on it now, and my son's is a 2000 model) so if you need that lamp reconnected for a roadworthy inspection or whatever, give me a shout.
fuck another jappie!!!
welcome
to the mad house.
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The 8mm open end, what goes in those two little slots on the handle?
Edit
Oh I see is it the socket?
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You have the Givi side bags, do you have a top one? Like I said, they have an optional backrest about which Imhave read reviews.
I have the Givi top case with the back rest worked fine it kept the wife on absolutely no danger of falling off the back.
She complained that there was no movement tho, that was the only problem.
I also made up a belt that I wear that has a handle on each side for her hold onto. She also would fall asleep.
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When I get home from work tonight I will pull the seat off of my 97 and take a pic and let you know .
Just by looking at the pic I would think that the red wire goes on the outside and the red/white goes on the inside.
However I will look at mine tonight to be sure. Its been a while since I had to look at mine.
That would be awesome. I used the wiring diagram but it would be nice to have a confirmation!
J
heres the link for the service manual if it helps at all.
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Sorry to hear this.
If the lock is missing, the pull cable is flopping around in there someplace. Might be worth a few minutes to try and fashion a hook to drag it out of the hole.
Depending on your seat, you can just remove the undertail or the rear cowl, exposing the mechanism and setting the stage for the repair.
It's an aftermarket seat. Not sure which one, but it doesn't look like the Corbin. I guess I'll just order the new tail and then deal with it all at the same time.
Thanks for the advice, I'll see if I can dig the cable out. When I was poking around earlier the Power Commander was blocking the hole pretty well.
You can remove the rear cowl with the seat in place just ease it out the rear.
Then you'll see the lock mechanism the cable should be floating around in there somewhere, as Joe said.
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Freeze the new bearing.
I used a long socket extension with a socket on and tapped out the olde one. Used the old 1 to replace the new one.
worked for me.
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I've got a brand new in the box Jaws delink kit, I'd like to get $200 Canadian plus shipping.
hmmmmmmmmm
whats in the kit?
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maybe someone here can enlighten me why the difference?.
Trying to think what I put in the 97. will have to look.
According to the NGK site the plug for 97-2000 is
2001-2003
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FARKLES.. can become an addiction.. is that a bad thing??? Or am I just a good girlfriend?? hmmmmmm
who said it's an addiction? names, names I want names.
I CAN STOP FARKLING ANYTIME I WANT TO!!!!
Besides theres a patch out for it.
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They indicated they shorted via a car battery and made reference on reverse charging for a moment...but I can't find the link. Don't know if it was here or our temp site when this place had the issues.
Anyone? Anyone?
Yeah Mike it was me, posted on 12 dec see my profile. Cheers big ears.....aye!
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Ya know, they do make 3/8" drive extensions that will grip a socket and not let go until you pull back the release ring. They are very handy for any spark plug work.
Here's one
Edit: Link fixed
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Used 3 or 4 times. In NEW condition. 8GB/Silver/w charging sync cable - no headphones
Paid $149 ++
Pay me then to the fund - Minimum $75 donation
Shipping included
Still for sale?
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I really want a weekend in Newport...
Me too, but it's too bloody cold!!! I need beach days.
This. This is what I need:
aah so your a left hander that explains it.
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I usually think of business suits running me at about 52.
In business suits an off the rack 48L is about perfect for me, though I have to buy separates because I don't have the 38 inch waist that's apparently supposed to go with a 48 jacket. If you're a 52, you and I are built very differently even if our heights and weights are in the same ballpark.
have you tried the athletic fit/cut ?
The pants are smaller than the normal fit.
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Anyone out there put LED's in the cluster??
Jet
what year is your bike?
1997
I put the lumiglos in my 97, the only thing that doesn't light up now is the clock. Can get pics if you want.
Am interested to see a led lit dash tho.
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I had turn signals in the mirrors on my Goldwing. They're not blinding at night. I found them actually quite useful for vehicles to be able to see them when they wouldn't have otherwise had a direct view of my fronts or rears.
they shouldn't be any more blinding than turn signals in cage mirrors...........
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Anyone out there put LED's in the cluster??
Jet
what year is your bike?
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I have a pair, but they're attached to my vfr.
is the said 'Pair' collecting dust as well?
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Cleaning off my bike yesterday and found 2 wheel weights practically hanging off front wheel. (Just had new Shinkos put on a few weeks ago at shop). Adhesive got loose so put some double-sided tape on them and put back on wheel. Added some black duct tape over for good measure. Did this to the stack of 5 weights on rear wheel which are still in good shape.
I'll go back to shop and have wheel balanced......eventually.
I'm thinking I probably had a couple more but they fell off while riding.
But was wondering how many weights you guys have on the front wheel typically........especially with Shinko's? Is it ok to ride it the way it is now.....I assuming I don't feel a high speed wobble coming?
stack of 5 weights?
seems like a lot.
I have used the Shinkos in the past and never had a problem with balancing. They were just as good as other brands, couple of cases I didn't need any weight.
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I did mine pointing out to the right side of the bike - that's the "up" side when it's on the side stand, and clear of the chain that I always manage to get dirty from when filling tires.
When I tried them parallel to the rim, they seemed too close to the rim and I feared some gas station air chucks may not clear.
+1
I kept them away from the chain as well. I have had them on since 2007, Have had no problems with them. at all.
sure don't miss the scraped knuckles from the front wheel.
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Stan,
It looks good, thanks for the info.
Regarding the mount for the GPS.
I went and got an 8mm flange bolt and cut the head off it then drilled it out large enough to take the threaded rod that fit the ram mount. I used the cut off flange head in the underside of the top nut then double nutted it to get the top nut tight. it has worked fine for me. I have since found the following
The bolt that is used in the XX front fork to secure the axel has an 8mm flange head
Somewhere on the bird is also an 8mm flange nut I can't remember where or if indeed I got it from the bird.
With the ram being imperial and the bike stuff metric.
It seems that it would have been prettier if I had threaded part of an 8mm bolt to fit the ram mount but left enough of the 8mm thread to secure the flange nut to the top nut.
Back on topic:
Icepick, I am interested in the ride report for the rear brake cheers
mack
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I can't vouch for the RC51 lower, as I have the 929/954 lower with the RC51 (SP1) upper. Looking at the line diagrams and eBay pictures, I don't see why the SP1 lower wouldn't work. Steering stops will have to be fabbed no matter what. One might be able to use shorter forks with the 929/954 upper as it has a "gull wing" shape. 1000RR forks would be purty...
I used the 14 front brake lines and master. The line from the master might be a bit stretched, but that may be my aftermarket bar configuration. If you go with that, you may have to make accommodations for the throttle and switchgear - I'm dealing with that now. The XX cable exit from the throttle grip housing interferes with the 14's brake lever travel.
I re-used the XX clutch master. The ZX would work, I'm told, but I don't know if there would be fitment issues at the bars if you use something aftermarket. The XX master has marginal interference on the aftermarket bars, but it's going to be fine.
A ZX-10 fender works and looks good with an adapter - if you're interested, I'll dig through receipts and let you know where I got the adapter and what year the 10 fender needs to be. I may have posted it previously...
The ZX-10 front wheel bolts up to the 14 forks with the 14 spacers. I like the looks of the 10 wheels, and they are a little lighter than the 14 wheels. I don't know if they will have issues with the weight of the XX. Someone will let the forum know if I find out the hard way that they don't. Obviously, none of this is an issue if you use the 14 wheels and fender. Just a thought, as the 10 wheels were readily available on eBay.
Using the 10 rear wheel keeps you from having to change the swingarm, shock, dogbone, chain, etc. To work, it needs the 12 sprocket, a specific year 10 caliper/bracket, and some stock Kwak wheel shims. I have not road tested the rear brake mount yet, but it *looks* like it will work without issues. I can get the specifics if you're interested.
Still looking for a place to mount the horn. Not a problem, there's plenty of room, I just don't feel like tearing the whole thing apart *again* to drill and tap a spot on the lower. I'll have to re-wire the 14 kill/run/start switchgear to plug in to the XX harness, and figure out a way to run the 14 throttle cables to the XX carbs.
Ask away... I'll take pics or measurements if you want/need them.
I saw in your post that the lower stem you used was hitting the oil cooler. I haven't decided which bird to do it on, either the 97 or the 03, but the oil cooler is mounted differently on the 03, so maybe the 929/954 lower would work.
One reason I am thinking of using the 12/14 swingarm is it looks like the easier way to go in that it bolts right in using the xx hardware and 'only' requires a custom dog bone. it will also mean I won't have to machine anything to have rear brakes, and I like the look of the 12/14 swingarm. Having said that I am interested in the mod you did to the rear wheel and how the brake is working now.
Using the 10 wheels is an option butt it wouldn't be to save weight.
At the end of the day I am hoping to have something that looks factory with minimal welding and cutting.
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After following the ZXXX thread and reading all the other associated threads I am about to join the ZXX bandwagon.
To accomplish this I will need the following: (please correct me where needed.)
FRONT END
1. RC51 TRIPLE TREE COMPLETE
2. REPLACEMENT MASTER CYLINDERS.
3. NEW HYDRAULIC LINES.
4. Z12/14 FORKS.
5. FRONT FENDER.
6. RADIAL CALIPERS.
7. FRONT ROTORS.
8. FRONT WHEEL.
9. HANDLE BARS
REAR END
1. Z12/14 SWINGARM
2. CUSTOM DOGBONE.
3. REAR SHOCK.
4. ROTOR.
5. CALIPER.
6. BRAKE LINE.
7. NEW LONGER CHAIN.
I am guessing that the reason it is the Z forks is because of the length right?
Talk to me. Tell what am I missing here.
Mack
XX bits and pieces I found in my garage.
in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
Posted
After getting rid of the Raccoon I had ta clean out the crawl space. Have these looking for new homes.
1. Givi wing rack as it is pictured. gone2. Ventura rack with high and low mount. No mounting bolts. Gone
3. Undertail. No cracks. $30.00 plus actual shipping.
4.Front fenders. Both in similar condition. dirty no obvious damage. Both Gone
5.Nelson Rigg saddle bags small size. Gone
6. Nelson Rigg saddle bags large size.Gone
7. Daves peg extenders. Gone
8. Fender extender. Shipping costs GONE
9. Whatchama call its. $30.00 all four pieces plus actual shipping PENDING
10. EVS RC-EVO RACE COLLAR BLACK XL never used, too small. Gone
11. Givi Top case rack $40.00 plus actual shipping. Only bolts are the ones that secure the arms to the Givi base. No spacers or mounting bolts.