poida
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Posts posted by poida
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the sounds like a diesel had me thinking cct as well.
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6 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:
Better than nothing, but not better than a voltmeter if you know what to look for and pay attention to it. Having both would be a better option, one to alert and the other to see what's actually happening. The light allowing 13.2 as ok is ridiculous; yes it charging, but not ok. They don't publish the voltages for amber, red, or flashing red; but if 13.2 is considered normal charging I'm guessing the red zone will be below operational voltage for most bikes.
Being able to see voltage numbers was why i went from the kuryakin volt meter which just had a row of different coloured lights,to the volt meter rc randy posted.mines attached in pretty much the same spot as rc randy's but fitted without cutting into the plastic by using stick on velcro dots .I have it wired into the fans wiring cable and while it shows a slightly lower voltage than when i put a volt meter directly to the battery it gives me a pretty good idea whats going on.
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I have the same on my bike.prefer it to the kuryakin one i had on it previously
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slime powersport and a tubeless repair kit is what i keep on my bike.have had to use it a few times now and works great.made a shelf for it to sit on in the ducktail of my blackbird by tying a couple of bits of webbing in an x.i dont use the case it comes in,instead i have it wrapped in an old t towel so i have a rag as well to clean my hands with.the power cable and inflator hose fit under the tool strap and the tubeless repair kit sits under the seat where the owners manual is meant to be stored.
pretty sure mine is a slime powersport 2000.have had it for years so could have been upgraded since.
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Good to hear it,s up and running again.
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tried zap hobby glue on an old piece of fairing but while it adhered really well it was too brittle for the join i need.
the tail section i need to repair flexes a bit when i use the grab rail to put the bike on the centre stand.
will look for some abs solvent cement and mix some abs plastic into it.
have only been able to find pvc solvent cement so far.we are a bit limited for choice here in aus.
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will try a hobby shop for some abs glue.if the soldering iron dosnt get too hot it should be ok to use then?
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why not use a soldering iron ?
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well the rapid fix 2 part plastics glue didnt work.will try welding it with a soldering iron next.just need to find some abs plastic to melt in.
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is that like a jb weld epoxy? the repair would need to be able to withstand a little bit of flex.
was having a look at plastex but unfortunately it dosnt appear to be sold in australia.i did find another 2 part adhesive here called rapid fix plastic glue.mix the glue with the powder and it's meant to melt into the plastic.
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has anyone had any success in repairing fairings?
the left side of the tailpiece on my bike has snapped near where it bolts to the frame.im guessing it was caused by the movement it gets when lifting the bike onto the centre stand.
having to use tape on it at the moment to keep it from flapping about.
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if the battery isnt dead i dont think it would be reg rec.possibly a short somewhere.it may sound silly but you might be able to isolate the area to start looking by following your nose for where the burnt smell is strongest.
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it happens to me from time time,not just 5 to 6th but could be any shift.not really going into proper neutral as it makes a horrible racket till i shift it firmly back into gear.ive always put it down to lazy shifting and too much slack in the drive chain
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Hi Hooplehead,could be lazy shifting or possibly the drive chain is too loose.
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hi blacksheep.i went 1kg springs and 7.5w oil on my bike.got the springs from sonic springs.
racetech have a spring rate calculator
http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Honda/CBR1100XX%20Black%20Bird/1997-2003
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gday brianmacza the wax starter choke thing (sorry cant think of the correct term for it)might not be working,left hand rear of the motor with 2 small hoses running to it
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Hi runner.ive had the slider pin that has the bolt head (the one that sits just under the brake hose)stick on my bike before.it was covered in crud.took a bit to get it out .cleaned it up and coated it with caliper grease and no more sticking brake
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gday hank.its good to be back on the bike again.
i honestly cant remember with the vent hole although i am pretty certain (99.9%) i would have fit it exactly how the old original one sat in there. was over 6 months ago that i changed it out and i sometimes have trouble remembered what i did today let alone 6 months ago.
.when i change out the coolant i flush the old stuff out with distilled water a couple of times before filling with honda coolant.ive never used an actual flushing compound in the system.so dont know if the engine needs some of that stuff run through it or not.ive never used coolant flushing compound in any of my vehicles as i dont know if it can actually do any damage or if its perfectly safe .
i guess another option is i can drain the system and take off the water pump hoses and it may be possible to see if the water pump blades are worn.
just seemed odd that when i noticed it wasnt cooling down as quick as usual that i hadnt done any recent work on the bike that i could blame it on..
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hey Hank,thought you said it was an easy fix....took me forever to clean the old gasket off haha.
very straightforward job and seems to have done the trick.hardest part was getting all the old gasket off and guessing by hand what 12nm was.didnt snap or strip anything so must have done alright.
thanks for all the help.
another question i have is my bike seems to be taking longer for the temp to drop after being stuck in traffic.i know the bikes run hot but in the past once moving again the temp is back to normal after a few miles.now it takes a lot longer.have replaced the thermostat and radiator cap with no difference.new radiator and hoses were fitted in 2011 after the radiator got holed,radiator fins all good .coolant changed every 2 years with honda coolant (non silicate).the bike never gets into the red it just has me puzzled why it would start behaving that way all of a sudden.fan kicks in as normal.thought it might be the water pump not pumping well but running the bike with the radiator cap off i can see a strong flow of coolant once warmed up.
i will be ordering some other parts from the US soon and wondering if its worth ordering a new waterpump while im at it or just keep riding the bike as it is.
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(Make sure you replace the parts with AUS spec parts since your clutch spins in the opposite direction of everyone else's.)
should be ok as long as i instal them upside down
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cheers xxitanium.starting to warm up over here ,26c tomorrow then 36c for sunday and back to 24c for thursdays trackday.
suprised me how quick the weather can change in the US.when i left sth dakota it was warm and sunny,couple of days later they had 3 feet of snow.thats just crazy
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the noise is the same squeal ,just wasnt there till the bike warmed up this time and wasnt there on every pull of the lever..new bearing and gasket have arrived so will fit them over the weekend and report back
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(Try this exact scenario: Put the bike in first gear, pull in the clutch lever, and then start the bike. The thrust bearing should not be turning in this scenario, but would be if the trans was in neutral. Then, if you pull in the clutch lever, the clutch inner hub will likely continue to turn, due to the oil viscosity. But if you then put it into gear (clunk), the noise should stop.)
hadnt started the bike for a few days so went to try the above.had no noise while the bike was cold,in gear or in neutral till the bike warmed up then i was getting some noise but only in neutral and not all the time.when i was getting noise i would pop it in gear and the noise would vanish.took it for a spin around the block and when i pulled up in my driveway in neutral it was noisy but pulling the clutch in and then releasing it the noise wasnt there each time i was pulling in the clutch.
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thanks for the help.ordered the bearing and a new gasket today and should have them sometime next week.
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Brakes
in The Garage
Posted
i usually flush out the old fluid with new every couple of years.i follow the sequence as stated in the manual.i push a section of clear hose onto the bleed nipple with the other end of the hose going into a jar that i have enough fresh fluid in that it covers the end of the hose.then pull the lever till it,s under pressure then release the nipple.once the lever hits the bar,nip up the nipple and release the lever.repeat until fresh clean fluid is coming out.sometimes it can help to work the lever a few times before releasing the nipple.just make sure you always have enough fresh fluid in the master cylinder