dunedain

Maybe adding to the confusion or clarifying but I work for a Terminaling company www.magellanlp.com where the tank trucks come to get their gas and I can say for certain that they all get their gas from the same tanks. Almost all loading rack tanks are bottom drain. That gas goes on the fisrt come fisrt served basis with no priority. We use filters and water coalescing filters to trap water. The reason some can call their gas "their own" is that we inject additives at the rack but we are talking about micro liters per load. Just enought to say "thats our gas" The only way you could ever tell is through use of a Gas Chromatograph or Mass Spectrometer. To be certain your are getting good gas does not have anyhting to do with where the gas comes from but how it's handeled. We are so heavily regulated that it is nearly impossible for terminals to be the source of contaminates or water. We have labs on site and test product daily (we test every tank truck full on jet fuel). Many companys use the same trucks for hauling diesel as gas (or other petrochems) and there is no rinse between loads. Over time this can be an issue. Many small stations or chains do not have the maint programs in place to maintain the facilities which is the primary issue with gas. We have a couple of chains like Quick Trip or Loves that have dedicated trucks for certain products and a good maint program so they generally have the best fuel. Just look at the place you are buying the fuel. If they cant clean the bathrooms do you think they have a clue how to maintain a fuel delivery point?

I wondered about thier (Electrix) stuff. I had a VFR for a time and went through 3 regulators. Electrix did not fair any differently.

+1 plus when you bend the little pissant rivet driver pushing through thqat big 530 chain then you can get the replecement parts cheap and easy.

I like the two brothers Ti oval system and got them and dynojet on a conference call to get the jetting (it's a 98) settings worked out. Loved it. Or am I supposed to be talking about oil?

Track riding will indeed wear your fork seals, bushings and oil more. There is really no connection with the right turn track and right fork having trouble. Since they are bolted together in the tripple and you got a hard axel then it becomes a signle system. Thats why the pro's often times put a 0.90 spring in one tube and 0.95 spring in the other so they can get to a 0.925 spring rate. If your hard riding it's time for new oil. When you had the "forks done" did they work on the valving for you? Vibration in the bars? I'd check tires, steering head bearings but you could have some suspension issues adding to this problem. I think you'll have to buy fork seals as a pair so might as well replace them both. I doubt if you blew shims off the stack. When you say one feels more oily than the other does that mean you got oil on the slider tube? If so then you got a leaky oil seal which should be evident by poppig the dust seal off. So when you push down on the fork tubes do they spring back the same? When you turn them upsidedown and listen to them as the oil trickels to the other side. Do they each sound the same? Have you lost a lot of weight lately?

I just throw them away. I don't buy them, I use old underware or socks or whatever. maan I was getting worried there for a mintue thinking there was something wrong with me. I use old clothes and use them first on lightly olied stuff then heavy greasae then trash them. My wife wants me to get my own washer for dirtbike gear and if so I may try to clean them.

Dunlop racing told me the same thin and that they balance the wheel and not the tire as they are perfect. I cannot confirm or deny that statment.

I would agree with Warchild on eventually cupping takes place, however this does look extra odd like not just cupping but tread package, AVBD winding package, or belt package has come apart in some form or fashion. It looks like th emiddle of the tie to me wher eI've never seen cupping. Only on the edges. How many miles you got on them?

I did not pull the speedo wire tap form the pro-oiler just the power wire to the PO. I would have thought that enough to make it not impact me system but evidently a capicitor for the reed switch model which is only half used in the electronic version will cause this. If you get an electronic version of the PO make sure there is no capacitor between #1 & #2 on the circuit board. If so snip it. Or send it back and say "I want and electronic version. On the Reed Switch models you need both of those inputs but on the electronic version you just use #1. Make sure you get the right board (Electronic not reed switch) in your kit or you will have trouble/

I have that system and lost 35lb w/the centerstand. I got the Ti Oval system.

it's a 98 with the Hall Effect type sensor and analog display. I been through the connectors. I do not want to do a lot of carzy wiring stuff just before a big ass ride. I've done the manual test procedure. Disconnected the Pro-oiler. pulled and cleaned all connections. I guess a new sensor is next. It's just odd that it works and then doesnt every time like there is a voltage bleed off or pulse reroute taking place somehow. I really dont want to throw $77 at a maybe. Thanks for the input.

I'm a Pro-oiler distributor (Road Rage Motosports) and they frown on going below the MSRP but if options run low I can see about geting J&S Imports and see what they would do for us. I woul dnot however rat on the XX bretheren if they get one. BTW - I just got my PO on and it freakin rocks! I can make a chain last for 20k miles but thats taking a lot of time and elbow grease. I'lll never buy another chain again with ththis thing!!!! :icon_think: Maybe! If you want one for $229 then PM me and we'll do a deal. If whoever is putting this group buy together needs to drag up then I'll see what I can do.

Looks good to me! not like the caps are needed for pre-load or damping and the heli's look cooler. I guess you could not find some .45 casings to put in there!!

My speedo works great to ~17.2 mph and then dies and goes to zero. 17.2 I got from GPS. It stays at 0 until I drop below 17.2 mph then it runs again. Anyone ever have this kind of gremlin on a bike before?

I think I just used jack stands under the rear pegs and took the wheel off for weight reduction, cleaning, inspection, lubing, Since you're going to have it appart I assume you'll clean & lube all the linkages and such. Good luck! Came off pretty easy and I think I losened all the bolts whilit was on the stands before I put it on the jack stands.

Yes anybody? I put down $709 on an AutoCom system that sucked ass, engine noise, no GPS, no phone able to work. I took it back and got it taken out and got my money back no questions asked so the search continues and Baerh is net on the list if I can get confirmtion that it works for others.

as a fuelr blender I can tell you what you get at the pump has all sorts of neat and nasty stuff in it but every gas statioon intown is elling the same gas. This cannot work in my book.

Yes please thats just one of those Dooh! Kind of things that really sounds too good to be true. I'm interested in your results.

My first thoughts.......stolen! kidding but I think dymags are about $5k. I'm interested in what Talon and Dymag had to say. :icon_think: Sounds like the sprokects are not aligned properly. If there are no nuts and it's threaded internally then you are talking bolts (Po-tay-toe, Po-ta-toe). you'll have to yank the sprocket assy. outs the wheel for a look. Has it been wrecked? Are these Carbon fiber Dymags? More investigation please. Good Luck! -M

I use the sun! Thats right...the big, bright, hot, ball of flame in the sky! Set your tires in it for about an hour before changing them and they will go way easier! Then all the other tools listed! I like the garden hose idea. I use some cut up milk cartons. No if I can find a way to kee the rear caliper from scratching the rim as I work it all out I'd be in like Fynn!

Here is a handy .xls to help you gage trip expenses. tripfile06.xls

It's a nice thingy but when you losen the bleeder screw do it just a little as this thing can litterally pul air passed the threads makiing it look like you got more air, and more air, and geesh more air. Barely open the bleeder bolt so you can hold vac on it without it bleeding down. Then depress the lever on the master.

pm me your email and I'll shhot you a gearing spreadsheet for the XX that will tell all when you go to change up gearing. I'been 1 down up front and then tried various rears and have just recently went back to stock. I even tried the 520 and got 12M miles on it but it took two Al sprockets to get there. I'm steel and stock 530 now.

I routed mine just like the stock and ziptied them where I wanted them. The clutch line is easy. It's a linked line that sucks as bleeding the system even w/bleeders and a mighty vac was not easy. De-link woiuld be my recomendation. Also, many of the lines have an agnle on the end to the banjo bolt hole and you must play with them a little to makke sure which side is up or down or which way the angle best suits.

Id like to change my XX mirrors and replace them with a smaller version/other light options. I don't find many 3 wire aftermarket lights and nothing but the iron cross type mirrors. My goal is to shave this pups ears back a bit. (please no banter about safety and visibility ect.) Just lookin for the goods. I blank with a hole in it. A low profile light (3-wire). A litttle fisheye mirror setup. Something other than what I got. Ideas?