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Northman

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Posts posted by Northman

  1. I grew up 60-70km from the start of the Cabot Trail, of course I'll be doing a few loops around it. There are some other fun roads in the area too. PM me if you want some input... Make sure you take Route 19 North from Port Hawksberry to get to the Cabot Trail.. :icon_evilgrin:

    Sweet.

    I'm there for a wedding, so on a relatively tight schedule, but I'm sure I could fine at least one day to burn.

    We'll talk. :icon_smile:

  2. May help him but won't help me any... I'll have at least 12,000Miles on the bike when I get home. I run the Avon 46 rear but no way I'd trust it that long.

    When I get to NS I'll swap out the tires to get rid of the flat stop so I can go play on the twisties...

    Where abouts in NS?

    I'm planning on hitting the Cabot Trail next month... :icon_evilgrin:

  3. Well if he's like me and puts allot of miles on, a month long road trip will eat any tire.

    I'm putting a new tire on before I leave for my road trip and shipping another new one to my parents place as I know I'll have 8000+Km before I get there on the tire. Defiantly won't be shot at the point but won't have another 8-10000KM left on it...

    Then install an Avon 46 rear. I put 9k miles on mine when I went to Reno 2 years ago, and still had another 1-2K left in it when I pulled it off on the way home.

  4. Why not just save some of the hassle and install the new tire now.

    You can always put on the one you are currently running after you wear the new one out...

    But to answer your question, you will have no problem seating a bead with a gas station air compressor.

  5. Just curious,was there another member here sent a pair of cans to test also? maybe i miss read.

    Yes, I have one to try, as well.

    While Eric's bike is basically stock, with a stock header & dual cans, mine has a modified engine with a single, full aftermarket system already in place.

    We're guessing this will yield different results, but not sure in which direction. May be another 2-3 weeks before mine is tested.

  6. I've got no owners or service manual.

    For those who don't know it's a 1975 Kawasaki 100 c.c. 2 stroke.

    What oil goes in the gearbox, keeping in mind it's a wet clutch riding in the same oil.

    I've only ever seen 10W40 used for 2-smoke transmissions, so that's what I would go with.

  7. I know where a 05 or 06 1000RR is with a bad engine, don't know if it is for sale.

    I have a 97' XX engine that I am not doing anything with right now. would it be alot of trouble to put it in the RR, Ron

    Yes.

    The RR engine has a much smaller envelope, weighs less and makes more power.

    To me, it sounds like a bunch of work with questionable results.

    It would definitely be a step backward, IMO. Even though the XX makes more torque, the RR makes more power.

    You'll also kill the handling of the RR by installing a wide, heavy engine.

  8. I am running M3's on the Bird now and they are great tires. I used to run a Z6 front and M1 rear but got 2 M3's when my supplier was out of Z6's. Surprisingly the M3 gets almost as good wear as the Z6 and Much better than the M1. I'm willing to trade a few miles for having the handling of a pure sport tire. So thumbs up from me on the M3

    Why the hell would you run a harder front than rear?

  9. Email changes have to be admin authorized, and are placed with new accounts that also require admin authorization.

    I authorized the change sometime yesterday afternoon before you actually posted about it. To my knowledge, there are no emails sent out to let you know the change has been approved.

  10. Just logged on here ~ 1/2 an hour ago at home after having been on here a couple of times at work and apart from the regular occurence of having to re log in at work I noticed something strange just now :icon_confused:

    I looked at the post about the Motorcycle Ownership Survey, scrolled to the bottom and thought I have read this already and yet the last post on the main page after I hit "view new posts" was suposed to be at 7.12PM by JoelMikel and yes it is but on the actual post it has a time of 5.40AM which would be why I had seen it before :icon_confused:

    It updates the time stamp for the last vote, not necessarily the last post.

  11. Brett, I wouldn't rip a fellow board member off in that way.

    The gas mileage has been the same as always, mid to high 30's per gallon.

    Doesn't ever use oil.

    I have noticed the oem pipes were always going black at the end cap. I assume this means running rich, with an aftermarket exhaust will that help to lean it out a bit?

    Brian

    You need a PCIII and a custom map. That should sort you right out :icon_smile:

  12. That definitely doesn't look right to me, especially the fit of the can.

    Mine fits like a glove. I would loosen the header flanges once the bike is cool, and see if something is binding up front, as the rest of the system is slip fit.

    I can't take pics right now (sent bike away for a month or so), but I can assure you it fits better than yours does :icon_eek:

  13. My neutral light came on while riding the other day when I was in 6th gear. Now it doesn't come on at all. This isn't a big problem except when I want to put down the kick stand and idle. (Sometimes at lights I warm my hands in the exhaust) Any ideas on the cause? What exactly monitors the neutal light anyway?

    Thanx

    The switch is on the left side of the engine case, right beside where the shifter shaft comes out. Single wire connector.

    I would check the wiring in the area of the switch, first, and if nothing turns up, try grounding the wire with the key on. If the indicator comes on, the switch is likely defective.

  14. Took the tank off and tested the coil 12.6 on one side and nothing on the other when turning over.

    What are you using to test the power at the coils? I use a test light when cranking. One side should be a constant power, with the other side a pulsing power.

    From what you describe, I would suspect fouled plugs, but definitely check for spark, first.

  15. I coated my factory header once-upon-a-time then sold it to G2 3 years ago.

    It seemed to make a difference, but not as much as installing a set of aftermarket slip-ons did. Those stock mufflers get WAY fucking hot! :icon_eek:

  16. I'm not using the stock header. I have a 4-1 header from a Two-Bros Shotgun system that I'm going to use.

    I would imagine I'm going to save half the weight of an after market system since (mid-pipe back) the mid-pipe will be half he length, as will the exhaust can.

    I guess I won't know for sure till I try.

    My TiForce complete system is one of the only fully titanium system systems available for the XX and weights just under 9lbs including can, not to mention will make the most power.

    The Akra has a stainless steel header, weighs only 2lbs more (IIRC), and is very close in performance to the TiForce.

    Compare those weights to just the weight & performance of your 2Bros header.

    Now, if it's just for looks, that's something else. :icon_biggrin:

  17. why cant i log in my email address is pandtcross@kol.co.nz every time i try it comes back saying you email address has been used before, i would like to re register please

    regards phillip

    Phillip, the ID registered with your email addy is "crossie". Do you wish that name to be changed? If not, try logging into that acct, and if you cannot retrieve your password, I will reset it for you then email you the new password.

  18. Any downside to the combined units? I thought there was concern with the heat from one decreasing the life of the other?

    I don't see why there would be a problem. All factory HID's are built that way, IIRC.

  19. Do you have the "HISS" on your bikes in Thailand?

    if you mean the key linked to the bike then yes, my bike came from the home of Honda..........Japan

    North American bikes don't come with a factory anti-theft like the European bikes do, and I'm not sure if Thailand has the "HISS" which stands for "Honda Immobilizer Security System", IIRC.

    Our (North American) bikes don't need a special key, just one that physically turns the key cylinder.

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