Northman
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Posts posted by Northman
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Any idea how these compare to sprocket specialist and their Titan Tough aluminum sprockets?
The Titan Tough aluminums are just hard anodized. I would not trust them to outlast a chain, and doubt that they would even last that long on a big bike.
If you want bling, take a look at the trimetal sprockets by Supersprox.Gold anodized aluminum (I think it's 7075) center carrier with black steel toothed ring held together with titanium button rivits. It looks great with my gold Carrozzeria's on the Turbo and with 4000 miles, shows no wear. Cost is about $100.00...Hank
Same sprockets Sidewinder sells, but apparently cheaper... :icon_think:
Where'd ya get them?
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If you want some more bling, buy the Sidewinders. Light like aluminum, but strong as hell.
They're a bit spendy, though. Email or call them, and ask for Mike. Tell him you're from this board, and you were told you could get one for $119.95. They're in St. Charles, Illinois, (West side of Chicago, not far from Jerry's place) so you could even pick it up.
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STEEL!!
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I'm 86.27% positive that the forks are the same between the carbed and FI Birds............
I'm 87.3% positive that they changed the internals for '99.
Went from steel to aluminum on one component, IIRC. Not sure how they interchange, however.
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I'd say changing your plugs is the next step.
+1 Plugs are definitely fouled after cranking that long unsuccessfully. You also want to change out your oil before firing the engine, as you've most likely ended up with a bunch of fuel washed down the cylinders.
If this ever happens again, hold the throttle wide open if the bike doesn't fire in the first few seconds. That will shut off the injectors and allow you to clear out the cylinders before closing the throttle and allowing more fuel in.
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I don't routinely sniff or even closely examine the fuel I put in the tank...and I don't think most other folks do, neither.
You mean sniffing gas isn't normal? :icon_shifty:
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Siphon out what you can, and refill with premium. Run that tank completely dry before refilling again.
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Fuck Josh, my shit is better!
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Not trying to steal Josh's thunder, but I'll also have quite a few "odds & ends" with me, so if there's something you're needing, bring cash!
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We've seen this before, and it's probably attributed to a lack of lube on the pivots. Once they start to bind, it starts to work the link, itself, and failure is shortly behind.
Want to buy another one?
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It will bolt down, but won't work.
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Thanks guys. I know how the brake system works. I just wondered if anyone had rebuilt a MC before. This is the first time I've heard about anyone having this problem.
Pretty simple to do, Jim. Just disassemble, clean everything, replace the seals, and re-assemble with clean brake fluid as your assembly lube.
If you screw it up, I can always send you mine
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How many miles on the bike?
Pick it up from the shop, and change the CCT (2 bolts, under right side fairing). IF the noise is still there, you may have to dig deeper, but I doubt it. I can't recall a single case of a bad timing chain, even on bikes with 100K+ miles.
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I don`t really recall it but I think they where factory greased,
.Greased with some synthetic high temp bearing grease,feels fine now.
The bearings come with an anti-corrosion oily coating, but definitely not grease. I don't understand why you didn't grease them to begin with.
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I sent them a very detailed question's about the work & what I wanted & their reply to all was very vague to say the least. No specific detail's were included on their response ( I did ask)
That sounds like Elton
Give him a call and he's likely to give you better details on the work.
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You're not going to get anywhere near 200 horsepower with those mods. All that is doing is giving you the basis for making more power. Think of it as jacking up your house and putting 4 foot thick concrete in for a foundation. Sure, its strong, but it don't make that great of a difference....except now you can build nine stories up without it falling over. Similarly, once you have that engine built, you can start feeding it lots and lots of combustibles....but you have to have a delivery system with it...heads, cams, injectors, throttle bodies, fuel pumps, power commanders, etc, etc......
+1
Did he tell you how many cc it would be after boring/stroking?
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The Silver and Black are my favs..
Traitor :icon_snooty:
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I was in a more serious mode when I posted, like all gettin' my science on.
Booze will help you with that
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What the fuck is a water grain?????
The number of water grains in a unit of air (pounds or cubic feet) quantifies the absolute humidity instead of the relative humidity, which varies by temprature. If you want to remove temperature as a variable then express the amount of moisture in the air as the number of water grains in a unit of air
1 pound of water= 7,000 grains
Here's an article discussing how it relates to engine tuning. RaceCarBook.com. Water grains are discussed about halfway down the page.
I like my answer better :icon_nana:
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What the fuck is a water grain?????
Kind of like that mist you get in your face when you pee into the wind.
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You need to ask yourself 3 questions, first.
1) How much power do you want?
2) What do you want to do with the power?
3) How much do you want to spend?
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Don't you have to have the revs above 5000 for this to work?
Nope.
That part is optional
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Ok...seeing as though he's on a budget, how can I eliminate any one of these theories without necessarily buying parts? How much is a fuel pressure regulator? Still waiting on Joe to tell me how to get the ECU codes for the FI issue. This all sounds promising though...hopefully it's one of these things mentioned so far.
You can also check codes by putting the sidestand down but only when the FI light is on.
Example: If he's riding and the FI light comes on, pull over, put bike in neutral with engine running and put sidestand down. FI light will start flashing the code just like Joe described.
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I'm trying to decide if I want to tackle putting the slab in my pole barn or if I should leave it to the pros. Anyone have any experience with it? It really doesn't seem like rocket science. If figure I'll need to rent some tools. Otherwise it doesn't seem like there is much to really mess up. I don't care if the top is perfectly smooth. A little texture would probably actually be better. I'm not planning on mixing my own. I'll definitely have the material brought in from a cement company so that won't be a variable. Is there some gotcha that I don't know about?
Texture isn't the problem, but it's a ton of work, and not something one person could do. At least not an amateur, IMO. The concrete has to be spread level, and you need to make sure you work any potential bubbles out. Leveling the concrete is the hardest part, mostly because you have a relatively short window in which to work in.
Its going in a 24x30 pole barn and I figure 4 inches thick should do it.With the base you have, I would agree that should be sufficient. I would ask an expert's opinion just in case, though.
Is the fiber impregnated concrete that much better?It is better, and stronger. Even though it will crack just like any other concrete, it won't separate as easily.
My opinion is have a professional do it, but ask that it not be polished. Polishing is what makes it very smooth (obviously) and will raise the labor costs. I would seal it when it's fully cured, though.
Sprockets
in The Garage
Posted
Sidewinder's TriMetals are also made in Europe (Russia, IIRC), and sent over.
I'll search for Cogent Dynamics website...