Northman
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Posts posted by Northman
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My girlfriend has a pellet stove, installed new ~2000. Worked well for the first year she lived there, then one day snuffed out and filled the house with smoke. Was blamed on not being cleaned out properly, so had that done.
Worked great for a while longer, then started snuffing itself out when it was milder outside. I cleaned it out at the beginning of the year and it works great when it's cold, but when the temp gets mild and the stove cuts itself back, it will snuff out. No smoke or anything, just quits burning.
I'm thinking it's either a problem with the auger, or the control for the auger.
Any insight from someone that actually knows? I can get the make/model tonight if that helps.
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The head on the XX is really something Honda should be ashamed of. On all levels of testing on a flow bench, Rick Ward found that it was only mildly better than the old ZX-11 heads. After some pretty serious headwork, it ended up flowing as well as a STOCK 'busa head.
+1
The whole induction system is a bottle neck from the airbox to the intake valve. Cams will yield very little for what you're going to spend putting a set in (cams, springs, retainers, adjustable gears, etc). I wouldn't consider changing cams without re-working the head, but you're going to spend substantially more money for very little gain.
If you want the biggest bang/buck, go with the best exhaust you can afford (Akrapovic or TiForce), and nitrous. Sounds like you're mostly drag racing anyway with the extended arm.
For my riding, NA works best as there's no turbo lag, and I don't need nitrous. I just like a big motor that pulls hard when you want it to.
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Any year of wheel will fit as long as you have the proper rotors.
Black rotors - carb'd 97-98
Gold rotors - FI 99-up
I would bet they meant 97-98
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Is the rear pedal pivot binding?
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I honestly don't give lean angle any thought.
My judgement is whether or not I can make the corner at a given speed. If I overcook it, then I need to dig deeper and look further into the turn. Hopefully I don't lowside doing it
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I have been working on wrapping up the Turbo XX after installing a different motor with a thicker head gasket in it.
The bike is a 2001, the motor is from a 99XX. The motor ran fine before disassemble and install of .075 head gasket. Motor was placed back in the bike and set for the least 4-5 months. I have been hooking it all up, minus the turbo to make sure the motor was running fine before re-installing the turbo. It has a stock header and mufflers for testing purposes.
I can get the bike to idle at around 900rpm only if I hold the throttle wide open.
I have verified the plug wires. I pulled the colder turbo plugs, they were wet with fuel. I installed a set of iridiums I had and the bike didnt do any better.
I have checked and double checked all the connections I can find.
I took a bunch of pictures with hopes someone can just spot an issue or have me check something else.
One other odd thing...the temp and fuel guages stay flashing after I turn the key on. The temp guage flashes 270, the fuel guage flashes like it is empty, but it has at least a gallon in the tank. Could something be causing it not to run because it thinks the temp is too high? Does it shut down if it thinks it has overheated?
Stan and I have talked, I hope I dont have to pull the valve cover back off and check the timing...or worse find out the valves are bent.
I haven't looked, but is it possible you have the connectors swapped?
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Pretty sure I have a stocker with ~15k miles you can have for shipping.
I'll double check tonight.
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Any suggestions on sources or on different materials?
They're a PITA to deal with, but Carrozzeria makes a nice wheel (when it all of the right parts get shipped), for a pretty good price. They're a lot lighter than stock, as well, and you won't believe the difference in handling. The bike feels 100lbs lighter just with wheels.
Any thoughts on ceramic bearings while I'm at it?WAY too much $$ for the slight benefit you'll see. Stick with the stock type, but if you get new wheels, they come with bearings.
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A PC probably won't add more than a few hp, but it will definitely clean up the midrange, and give you better throttle response.
Most bikes will run rich with slip-ons installed without tuning. Much more so with a full system.
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Did you also need to install a power commander ??
You don't need a PC with slip-ons, although it's still recommended.
I would NOT run a full system without a PC installed. Once you ride a properly tuned bike, you'll know why.
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Akra's a great system, but only comes in stainless steel. The new version may just have a O2 sensor hole you'll need to plug (may even come with the plug).
If you want maximum gain, go with TiForce, which is titanium. More expensive, however, and Akra is very close to performance.
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I got a nasty case of tennis elbow and lost almost all the hp I gained last year. I'm almost healed, but what kind of gay injury is "tennis elbow"?!? They couldn't name it hunter's elbow or mechanic's elbow? Jeez
+1 here on all counts.
Strangely enough it doesn't affect me at all at the gym though.
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Did you calculate any real numbers? MPG or km per tank?
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I think I'm going get Stan's in exchange for naked pic's of YOUR wife!
Hey, do you have the pic of Josh's ass at the bar that night? Remember, right before I slapped it
Nice avatar, btw!
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Is this shitbox sold yet, or what?
Lemme know when you want me to pick you up and take you for a ride, bitch
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10mm thread, and pretty much any brand will work. The most important thing in a compression test is consistency, not actual pressures.
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Okay, so, I run in wasted spark mode and my motor turns red-line at 13,200 RPM. I also fire 5 sparks per ignition, meaning 5 sparks per turn of the crank. Do the math on that one. Then figure out how many fast it has to spark in 4 degrees of rotation to get 5 sparks in at the top of each power and exhaust stroke!
Hold on while I smoke a dube first!
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How about just changing the plugs?
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I also went with a 190/55/17 to see what effect that has on steering. There's plenty enough clearance for a larger tire on the 14.
Hey, wait a second, there's not a 190 on your bike now, or are you just talking about going taller with the 55 aspect ratio?
Right. I'm stepping up the aspect ratio. There is a 190/50/17 on there now
Cuz that worked so well the last time you tried it.Its a bit foggy but I think it went something like this.
<Somewhere in Arizona>
Me: (following you) Wow...Chris is touching metal somewhere...shooting sparks all over the place. I'll tell him when we stop.
You: (later) Dude...I touched my header.
Can't remember your exact comments about the 190 you had on the XX but I don't think they were positive.
That was when he put the 190 on a 5.5 rim, IIRC. Bad idea.
Right on both counts
That tire was great for the first day, very good for the second, and by the fourth was completely fucked with a very weird transition from semi-leaned to leaned hard. When Brett was following me, I had almost lost the bike, had to get out of the throttle, and that's when the header touched down. I remember both he & Jeff impressed with the spark show, though
Jerry's comment: "Dude, Arizona. What were you thinking?"
My understanding is that the 2CT is softer in the sides than the standard Power, but that both have similar compounds near the center.If that's the case & you're pushing the front end, you may want to try the 2CT up front.
Maybe I should have read more about them before I bought them :icon_wall:
Anybody know a phone # for swmoto? I don't see shit on their site, and wonder if I can change my order...
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What prompted that decision? Personal decision, or drawn on specific information?
Following Rick on his Mille. The powers definitely put down some rubber when ridden aggressively. I've had issues with front end grip on both the XX and now the 14, so hoping to find a tire that helps with that.
Heard plenty of great reviews about the Powers, but the life is short, so hoping the 2CT helps with that, as well.
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I just ordered a pair of tires. Took me some to decide, but I went with a Power front, and a Power 2CT rear vs. the M3 front, Z6 rear combo I was considering. I also went with a 190/55/17 to see what effect that has on steering. There's plenty enough clearance for a larger tire on the 14.
Not fucking cheap, though. $320 for the pair from swmoto. Oh, and you'll have to wait a month for a ride report
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I still think the problem lies in the way the PCIII is hooked up. There's no way for it to disable the fuel pump unless it is grounding a circuit it shouldn't be.
When you get it hooked back up, check the display on the PCIII (like we talked about), and if the display is working, try disconnecting the TPS wire and injector connectors one at a time until the fuel pump comes back. I'm guessing either the TPS tap is wrong, or one of the injector connectors is reversed.
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Thanks for finally answering my post dickhole.
Who the fuck are you?
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Updated the list. Time to get rid of this stuff....
Pellet Stoves
in Handyman
Posted
My first choice would be to replace it with a woodstove, as well, but it's not my money. Not to mention it's a finished basement and running a new chimney will be a huge PITA.
It's non-electronic, at least as far as the burning end goes. It just varies the auger speed to control temp from what I can tell so far.
I'll call the guys that build it and see what they suggest.
Thanks for the replies