Mikesblackbird

Please post when they arrived. Put me down for one. Thanks. Mike

Thanks for the great advice. I just went outside to clean the bike up after the trip and I started the engine and warmed it up. Sounds as though there is a "hissing"/"sucking" sound at idle. I know it wasn't there before the trip. The bike ran great after putting in the K&N and changing the plugs in late winter/early spring. Maybe something came loose at the higher speeds/rpms on the way down. I do remember the bike running a little rough a few hours into the trip, and at a lower rpm and I thought it was the heat so I increased the idle. Since I ride with earplugs I never noticed it. I guess I'll tear into it in the next few days and see if a vacuum hose is loose, cracked, etc. I'll get back to you with the results. I appreciate the advice. Mike

Pete - thanks for the tip. I have the Haynes manual and see the section on the PAIR and reed valve system. Where do I get the block off kit, or is this something you just fab on your own to disconnect and plug it? Also, I read somewhere on this forum that you drilled your stock pipes. If so, how did you do it and did that require turning the pilot screws out to 3? Thanks. I just installed Red J's block off plates, Nice. :icon_clap: well worth the $40. I had mine blocked with silicone for years. I didn't drill my pipes so much as punch holes through them. I had a threaded piece of stock I sharpened and hammered several holes in the inner baffle (about a foot into the outlet use a flashlight and you'll see where I mean) Punch a few holes and listen and tune to taste remembering that you can't go back. The 3 turns out on the pilot screws can be done to a box stock XX. The factory has it real lean on the pilot circuit to pass emissions. Will also improve starting,idleing, and throttle response. PM forthcoming to Red J. Thanks Pete. I assume that your mileage did not suffer too severely after the above mod and that the performance improved.

Pete - thanks for the tip. I have the Haynes manual and see the section on the PAIR and reed valve system. Where do I get the block off kit, or is this something you just fab on your own to disconnect and plug it? Also, I read somewhere on this forum that you drilled your stock pipes. If so, how did you do it and did that require turning the pilot screws out to 3? Thanks.

I have a stock exhaust. I guess I need to check for intake leaks and synch the carbs. Err...that should have been the mechanic I was riding with....where is the grammar checker on this site??? Thanks. I do notice a little sound coming from the engine and think that it is the clutch basket making noise. I think I'll change the CCT as well. Thanks.

Ok. I pulled the plugs and they look fine. The exhaust is tight. Since I have the K&N should I add a Stage 1 Dynojet kit? Thanks for the help.

I just got back from an 1800 mile trip and halfway into the trip my 97 carbed bird would pop on the decel. It sounded like it came from the carb or the right tailpipe but I am not sure. While cruising in 6th at 85-90 mph, it ran great but as soon as I let off the throttle I would get a few pops, then a few more when accelerating again. Beyond that accelerating and cruising is fine. I changed the plugs about 2500 miles ago and added a K&N filter and up until this point the bike has been running great. On the ride I picked up a can of carb/injector cleaner and added it to the gas, but no change. A mechanic that I was riding was thought possibly a stuck float. Any help would be appreciated.

Has anyone installed Hunter Flatbars on their Bird? If so, how do they work and do they affect the ergos? http://www.hunterflatbars.com/

Did you just connect it to the battery terminals or did you use some sort of relay?

I have a 2000 mile +/- trip coming up in 2 weeks and I want to be able to power my iQue GPS/MP3, etc. On my last bike I had installed a Wally World outlet and tapped into the spare leads under the headlight. Is there a spot on the BB that I can tap into and add an outlet plug? I also want a liitle better quality than what Walmart has to offer, but don't want to step up to the higher end Powerlet brands. Is there something that is more affordable? I also plan to have the access point on the left side of the gas tank in the fairing panel. Is that a good spot? Thanks.

Ebay???? List it here first, have you seen one sit in our F/S section longer than a couple of hours? :icon_think: Ok. I'll list the seat here first to gain interest. Thanks.

That's a scary thought.. I'm 5'10" and I think the pegs are too high now... Yeah. I think I'll go back to the stock seat and use some sort of seat cover for comfort. I love the look of the Corbin, but the change in riding position is too drastic. I added lower pegs and Helibars to get the right feel for me and now it feels like it's back to the original stock set-up. I think it's time to e-bay the seat.

Mine is the smooth leather and I use saddlesoap and then a leather conditioner and it looks and feels great - a little slippery though. Thanks for the input on the Corbin. I agree the stock seat is a great seat for short runs and around town. I have friends who have the Corbins on their touring bikes and they swear by them. Mike

At the recommendations on this board I am now riding on a Corbin Gunfighter and Ladies seat. I have ridden with it a few times and it really is different from the stock seat. My need to adjust my ergonomics is everywhere. I feel further away from the bars and lower in the seat. This has changed my hand positions and my hands on the controls feel so different that it feels very awkward. I've adjusted my seating and crouch position and is has helped some. Also, the seat is as hard as hell. I am planning a 1000+ mile trip with 10 friends from Canada and am wondering if the benefit of the Corbin outweighs everything different I feel now. Any tips, comments, encouragement, etc would be appreciated. Thanks. Mike

PM sent to Plasticxxhead for the shield.

I agree. I changed out the ZG touring screen - yes, that's what it is with edging - and the stock screen works well at up to about 75 mph, then gets a little buffety. Beow that speed, the air is very clean. I'll stay with the stock. And yes, reading the development work that went into the BB, the designers spent alot of time on the airflow portion of the design, and I think they got it roght the first go round. Thanks for the responses. Anybody want to buy the ZG Touring shield I have?......First $35.00 shipped in the US get's it.

I'll changeover to the stock screen today, but do you think with the Helibars that the stock screen would be the best bet for around town touring? Thanks.

How friggin tall are you? My personal preference is for the stock screen. It might not protect you from the wind as well, but it looks a lot better to me. I've had a Cheetah screen with a turn-up on the upper edge and the wind hit me in the neck area causing my head to buffet. I've had a Sportech chrome screen and liked it till I broke it. Now I've got a stock 97 screen and it fits the looks of the bike the best to me and the wind hits me mid chest with no helmet buffeting. I am 5'11" but have long arms and the bike came with helibars and now has Buell pegs. I sit up on the bike a little more with this arrangement. I agree that the stock screen would look the best, but I am more about functionality based on my type of riding then the looks (to a point). Mike

I know ZG makes a touring screen but I'm only aware of the DB for XX. Several of the guys a ride with have the lip and swear by it but for me it has no place on a Bird. For how you plan to ride go OEM. For long jaunts,cool weather rides the ZG will tend to lift the air flow above your shoulders a bit more..... If I posted the pix correctly, here is the zg touring shield. I don't think it is a double bubble version, but I do agree that it is flimsier than stock. I guess I'll give the stock shield a try to see how it works out. Thanks. [attachmentid=718][attachmentid=719][attachmentid=720][attachmentid=721] Jesus................ that is f'n huge why would you do that to a bird? :icon_wall: It actually works reasonbly well. Air flow hits me in the shoulder area and I think in spite of the size, it flows with the bike. My alternative would be the stock shield and the laminar lip for higher speed riding, but I don't care for the look of the lip.

I know ZG makes a touring screen but I'm only aware of the DB for XX. Several of the guys a ride with have the lip and swear by it but for me it has no place on a Bird. For how you plan to ride go OEM. For long jaunts,cool weather rides the ZG will tend to lift the air flow above your shoulders a bit more..... If I posted the pix correctly, here is the zg touring shield. I don't think it is a double bubble version, but I do agree that it is flimsier than stock. I guess I'll give the stock shield a try to see how it works out. Thanks. [attachmentid=718][attachmentid=719][attachmentid=720][attachmentid=721]

My used 97 BB came with the stock shield and a Zero Gravity Touring shield. The touring shield was mounted and I haven't tried the stock shield. Is there a preference in this group about which shield is better for around the town riding and occasional 75 mph+ riding? I was thinking of going with the stock shield and a detachable laminar tourng lip instead of the zg. Any comments, alternates and suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks for fixing the posting error. You are right. I have spent a ton of hours cutting bushings, spacers, searching for clevins pins, etc. I'll take the plunge today - it is too nice of a day to spend buried in the basement home office. Need to get some air any way. Thanks.

I reposted this in The Garage section - my mistake. Can you get the Dremel in there without pulling the threaded rod out? Seems tight to me, but maybe I need to look at my Dremel kit completely. There may be something that can get in there?

I just added the Buell pegs and I like the additional room. I have adjusted the shifter with no problem, but I can not get the brake lever any lower. Is cutting the brake rod the next step? Seems to be a pain-in-the-ass to do - pulling off the peg mounting brake, actuator, peg, etc. Is that what everyone is doing that added the Buell pegs? Thanks for the help.

I posted a while back about changing the fluid in the clutch and brakes. Did the clutch the old fashion way and it took forever. I'm planning to do the brakes and I realize the bike (97) came with speedbleeders installed on all 3 brake calipers. It looks like there are 6 bleed points, but the bike only has 3 speedbleeders - 1 on each caliper. Does this make sense? Can I change out the brake fluid with just the 3 speedbleeders or do I need 3 more speedbleeders for the other bleed points?