Mikesblackbird

I started to do the same thing on 1 of the 6 holes on each muffler, but the "ffftt" sound that you are talking about made me think that it was a muffler with a hole in it - imagine. So, I plugged the hole. Maybe the trick is to drill all of the holes like you did and allow all of the air to escape through the 1/2 holes? Will this cause any damage internally to the engine? Thanks.

Thanks. Got it and will use low beam only. Well good for you..... Now do you think you could pass that on to all your dumbass cousins that I see riding around.... I don't think I have any cousins who still ride, but I'll check.

Thanks. Got it and will use low beam only.

During the day I have always ridden with the highbeams on. Is there a reason that I shouldn't - load on battery, alternator, rr, etc? Thanks. Mike

Ditto. I did the same thing and I do hear a difference. I also went so far as drilled 1 of the 6 holes on the back of the exhaust and now it is plugged with a rubber plug. Not surprisingly, sounded like a muffler with a hole in it :icon_wall: . I am doing everything I can to avoid the slip-ons and I think I'm still going to hold off. Mike

Thanks for all of the help. I finished the pilot screws - 3 turns out, the carb synch (#1 and #2 were both out of sych with #3 and #4) and added the shims to the carbs. This is on top of the advance kit I added a few weeks back. I took the bike for a short ride and what a difference. A totally different bike. No flat spots, no hesitation and very responsive. I spent about 8 hours between yesterday and today and it's nice to see that it was well worth it. Thanks again. Mike

OK. I have the carbs off of the intake and can see the screws on the bottom. What tool do I use to adjust them? I know Pete says to remove the screws, slot them with a Dremel so in the future you can use a screwdriver, but how do I get the damn things out. I assuming at the base of the carburetor the "D" shaped screws are the adjustment screws? As usual help is appreciated. I also plant to shim the needles in the carbs and synch them after reinstalling them. Any secrets to watch out for in ding this? Thanks. Mike

Not sure. The contour of the lip is made for the stock shield and attaches with industrial velcro and holds well. My guess is that the contour could be different between the stock shield and the DB.

I have used a strip of car window tint and added it to the top of my shield. But not the entire shield. Never used the spray-on but the film works well.

Thanks Pete. I had shimmed the needles on my Kaw before getting the bird and it did make a difference. What about drilling the slides? Should I do that as well while I have the carbs off? I think I read to use a 1/8 drill bit? Mike

I have the standard laminar lip on mine and at speeds greater than 65 mph, it works real well. Below that speed the air is clean and I really don't see a difference with it on versus the stock shield. I also had the ZG ST shield that I used before the lip and it worked well at high speed, but kept a lot of air off of me at lower speeds. I have helibars and I leave the lip on all the time. I recently came back from an 1800 mile trip with a lot of highway riding and was pleased with the way the lip deflected the air over my head at higher speeds.

Turning the screws out richens the mixture. Thanks Brett. I know it was a stupid question, but I wanted to be sure. My luck, I assume the wrong way and screw things up. Mike

At the suggestion of a few board members I plan on synching the carbs and also adjusting the pilot screws to correct a lean condition. The Haynes book says that the 97 model should be 2 3/4 turns out. If I want to richen the carburetor to offset a lean condition, does that mean I should go to maybe 3 turns out, or in to 2 1/2 turns. Instincts tell me that the screw controls the air into the carb and therefore the screws should be turned in. What's the answer. Can't seem to find it doing the search.

Are you certain it is not the clutch basket? I get noise from the clutch basket, but not the CCT.

I have a stock 97 which is essentially the same bike. Did the bike run well after the jetting and the K&N? Did you change anything else that caused you to make those changes? It's hard for me to imagine that a leaky valve cover would cause the performance drop if the plugs were installed correctly and properly torqued. I would pull all of the plugs and check to see how it's burning. I'm sure others will chime in. Good luck. Mike

Thanks guys for the quick service and info. Other than the dot the unit looked identical to the one I had in the bike. Mike

I have a 97, and not that I heard any noise coming from the CCT, I decided to chang it today to John's double green dot. The one that was in the bike was a single green dot. They look identical other than the dots. I have 15,500 miles on the bike and to my knowledge the CCT that was in it was stock. Did I just change the 97 OEM CCT with the correct CCT? Or, did I just replace the original with the same model? Thanks. Mike

I have this one and I really like it. It is made by Renntec: http://www.revsperformance.com/images/renn...ackREN7206B.jpg I have an el cheapo box mounted on it and without the box, the rack blends nicely with the bike. Between the top box, Fieldsheer bags and a Manta tank bag, I have pleanty of room for a week or so of riding. Mike

Wow, even with the difference in gas price, it'll pay for itself ($70) in 3450 miles if you gain 4mpg! Mike Is it 4 mpg over the increase that you get with the 18 tooth sprocket or is it 4 mpg with the sprocket and advancer? That's 4mpg OVER the 18T, which I thought was what he said/meant?? Mike Ummm.....Yes? Yes the 4mpg is in addition to about 2 mpg with the sprocket change. I'll try to slow down now on changes. FWIW, I just ordered the kit from www.maw.com; their part #21045; Honda part RTR-HON-8-04 and they have it on closeout for $44.95 + shipping. I have not received the order confirmation yet via e-mail, so I am not certain on the shipping charge but my guess is that it would be about the same or less than the Factory Pro sight of $12.00. I hate ordering from that MAW sight, but for the price I'll deal with it. Mike I received the order from www.mawonline.com today. The total price with shipping and handling was $56.00 and I must have got lucky; I received the order only 3 business days after placing the online order.

So that's how you do it. Read the manuals a few times but never quite understood. Nice write-up; any idiot can do it!

Wow, even with the difference in gas price, it'll pay for itself ($70) in 3450 miles if you gain 4mpg! Mike Is it 4 mpg over the increase that you get with the 18 tooth sprocket or is it 4 mpg with the sprocket and advancer? That's 4mpg OVER the 18T, which I thought was what he said/meant?? Mike Ummm.....Yes? Yes the 4mpg is in addition to about 2 mpg with the sprocket change. I'll try to slow down now on changes. FWIW, I just ordered the kit from www.maw.com; their part #21045; Honda part RTR-HON-8-04 and they have it on closeout for $44.95 + shipping. I have not received the order confirmation yet via e-mail, so I am not certain on the shipping charge but my guess is that it would be about the same or less than the Factory Pro sight of $12.00. I hate ordering from that MAW sight, but for the price I'll deal with it. Mike

Don't know for sure, but read somewhere that these are a no, no for cycles. There is a chance that the angle would poosibly allow them to be pulled out while riding. My 2 cents....

My thoughts exactly!! I'm a tightass on consumeable stuff like that I have tried all grades and I don't see a difference in any of them, so I stick with the 87.

I motion John increase price to net a minimum $5.00 profit on CCT's. Do I hear a 2nd? I 2nd..........er, I mean 3rd....

I think I need a FD gift also. Is that the $54.95 unit that they have on their site? Looking forward to your feedback. Mike