[silent sport premium muffler packing]

Has anybody tried this product? If so, do you think it would tone down d&d carbon slip ons to an acceptable level?

What Product, no atachment.I have D&D Slip ons also.

Go to silentsport.com and read about it. As for repacking the D&D carbon cans I have it is only a matter of drilling out the rivets to get at the guts.

I sent a note to D&D and asked about a quiet kit and this is what they sent me:

"We do have a quiet street pack that is available for the muffler. If you have the know how you could do it yourself or send them to us and we can repack them. the packing materials costs $53.00 Per can .Install costs $35.00 Per Can. + shipping both ways."

I suspect just repacking the kit like you would any slip-on after drilling out the rivets would work.

I may give it a try. JCW sells repacking for slipons cheap, cheap.

Mike

[Additional Lighting]

nevermind

[VFR clip ons]

what years and models of the vfr's clip ons fit the bird

any body know?

these are getting like hens teeth to find, need to know exactly what range I am looking in.

2002 and up. Go to VFRdiscussion.com. I posted on that site and paid $25 delivered for bars with less than 500 miles on them off of an 06.

Mike

[Chain/Sprocket Lifespan]

I got about 25,000 miles out of mine. 42,000 km. But it wasn't totally worn like the

pics i attached. That came of the old Suzuki. I had to cut of 4 inches down

in Austria before I rode back to Norway.

[attachmentid=4419] [attachmentid=4420] [attachmentid=4421]

Now thats a worn sprocket!

The rear sprocket would make a better circular saw blade than a rear sprocket! :icon_shifty:

[Mileage question]

Just a brief question, I bought my 02 XX with 17K and then got the Honda dealer to do the main service, ie, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter.....

I'm now at 27k, and most likely take it in for another service around 30k.

I change my oil (honda oil) every 1200-1500 miles.....

Now, one of the honda mechanics advised me to sell my XX on before I get to about 35k because at that mileage I am looking at valve work and other things....

This has got me worried, as I DONT want to sell my pride and joy..

I had a GS1000 years ago (and got one now too) that did well over 100K with only a set of piston rings thrown in.

So, what sort of mileage am I looking at for major work on the engine? this engine is very, very quiet and runs perfect.

I've even thought about buying another engine ready to switch out when something happens..

Any advise guys?????? Phil.

I'm sure others will chime in, but I would say "get another mechanic". I really don't expect any major service issues on my 97 (16K miles) for many, many years.

[18T front]

Is this the correct part number? Sounds like a mod I need to make:

http://www.whitebuffaloracing.com/shopexd.asp?id=683

Thanks.

Mike

I don't think so. I don't have the sales receipt anymore, but if I go through their

web page selection process, I come up with 20602, not 20504. You are talking

about a sprocket for the Blackbird, right?

Keith,

I had trouble working through their site and now I have it. Thanks for saving me from dealing with a return on an $18.00 part.

Mike

[18T front]

3) I purchased my sprocket from White Buffalo Racing and is, I believe, and AFAM sprocket.

It's a good quality steel sprocket, in any case.

Is this the correct part number? Sounds like a mod I need to make:

http://www.whitebuffaloracing.com/shopexd.asp?id=683

Thanks.

Mike

[Lean]

I just did it over the weekend so still waiting to see mileage drop.

I only used premium for 2 tanks after the ignition advancer then went back to regular, no problems.

Haven't revved over 6k yet? Boy are you in for a surprise! Don't do it in first gear, start in second or higher. Trust me.

I know, I'm open for criticism. The bike is just so powerful I have not found the need to go beyond 6k. I know there is a lot of chatter on this forum about rev limiters and high RPM's, but just never felt compelled to do it. I'm the same way with the cars; very conservative and very seldom do I floor it unless I need to. I have a trip to Lock Haven the weekend of 10/13 to meet up with a group of Canadians driving down from Toronto and maybe I'll give it a go at the higher RPM's then.

I run the premium because BJ's sells it and they don't have a Plus grade. An extra 25 cents a gallon and I do feel the difference.

Mike

[Lean]

Just had a friend of mine put the XX on a dyno, just to see what it is doing, it is leaning out. First question? What airfilter? K&N, he recommends shimming the valves and upsizing the jets but the bike leaned out to the point where he stopped the pull, also stock pipes. Comments anyone?

thanks Jet.

I had the same problem with the K&N, but after pulling the PAIR valve, shimming the needles and backing the jets out 2 turns, the bike runs great. I also added the timing advance kit. Stock exhaust as well. No popping on decel at all.

Mike

Mike, try this. I installed 2 #142 mains (so now all 4 are 142's) Went to #45 pilot jets with pilot screws out 2.5 turns and added washers to my needles for a total with the stock washers of 45 thousanths. runs awesome!

Now even with 1 tooth up on the front (18 tooth) it's trying to power wheelie in 2nd gear! The front tire is just skimming the pavement and if it hits a slight bump it leaves.

Pete,

Any mileage drop off? I am runnng premium and it does run great. Sounds like a good winter project. I don't think I've ever revved the bike over 6K rpms, but I do like the power increase thus far with the mods I have made.

Thanks.

Mike

[Lean]

Just had a friend of mine put the XX on a dyno, just to see what it is doing, it is leaning out. First question? What airfilter? K&N, he recommends shimming the valves and upsizing the jets but the bike leaned out to the point where he stopped the pull, also stock pipes. Comments anyone?

thanks Jet.

I had the same problem with the K&N, but after pulling the PAIR valve, shimming the needles and backing the jets out 2 turns, the bike runs great. I also added the timing advance kit. Stock exhaust as well. No popping on decel at all.

Mike

[Nuts and Bolts]

Anyone know what the part number is for the bolt and nut that is used to secure the shield on the blackbird????? Or where can I buy them?????

Here is a source I found, but I have not ordered them yet:

http://snipurl.com/xvx3

Mike

[Helibars made for a VFR on the Blackbird - do they fit?]

I have BB Helibars on my bike and a buddy of mine had a spare set of Helibars from his VFR. I bought them and tried to make the switch over the weekend. Well the clutch side went on without any problems with stock cables, but the brake hose on the throttle side was short by about an inch. Judging from the way they look on the bike, the bars will be slightly higher than the BB Helibars and about 1" further back. At some point I plan on changing the front lines to Spiegler or some other and at that time I'll go 2" over and install the VFR bars.

Mike

I think it may differ with year models. The clutch line on my '03 just makes it with VFR bars whereas the brake has plenty of slack left. So I reckon I wouldn't have a problem with the right side but there's no way the left would fit.

Keep in mind that the bars I'm talking about are Helibars made for an 02-06 VFR, not stock VFR bars.

[Helibars made for a VFR on the Blackbird - do they fit?]

I have BB Helibars on my bike and a buddy of mine had a spare set of Helibars from his VFR. I bought them and tried to make the switch over the weekend. Well the clutch side went on without any problems with stock cables, but the brake hose on the throttle side was short by about an inch. Judging from the way they look on the bike, the bars will be slightly higher than the BB Helibars and about 1" further back. At some point I plan on changing the front lines to Spiegler or some other and at that time I'll go 2" over and install the VFR bars.

Mike

[Helibars made for a VFR on the Blackbird]

Let me try this again......I know that 2002 and up stock VFR bars fit the Blackbird and this is a good alternative to the stock BB clipons or Helibars for the BB. What I wanted to know is if anyone is using Helibars for the VFR on the Blackbird. Will they fit, and if so, would the cables need to be changed?

I asked this question a few days ago and I think most people were responding to either using Helibars for a Blackbird on a Blackbird, or VFR bars on the Blackbird.

Thanks again.

Mike

The Heli bars for the BB just fit when you take off the "stops" from the brake and clutch lines. The throttle cables are also tight at full lock.

I quess the stock VFR bars are about the same as the BB Heli bars - so the VFR Heli bars should be about 1 inch taller. My guess is that they will fit but you may not be able to go full lock. Perhaps you could route the cables a shorter way.

The Heli bar people would know the dimentions of their bars. If they are only 1/2 inch taller/further back, then no problem.

I contacted Helibar and they gave me the typical corporate answer..."our bars are made to be model specific and if you attempt to use one model on another, then injury and possible death may be the result"....or something to that effect. Either way, I ordered a set and should have them in the next week or so, and I'll let all interested parties know how it works out.

If they work then I'll be selling my current BB Helibars. Thanks for the info and help.

[Helibars made for a VFR on the Blackbird]

Let me try this again......I know that 2002 and up stock VFR bars fit the Blackbird and this is a good alternative to the stock BB clipons or Helibars for the BB. What I wanted to know is if anyone is using Helibars for the VFR on the Blackbird. Will they fit, and if so, would the cables need to be changed?

I asked this question a few days ago and I think most people were responding to either using Helibars for a Blackbird on a Blackbird, or VFR bars on the Blackbird.

Thanks again.

Mike

[VFR Helibars - 2002 and up]

Mike I've been on the helibar website and they say you can use the stock cables and hoses, I think that the vfr helibars will give you the most upright position unless you change the hoses. This is based on the information I have come up with so far. This winter unless I find sonething better I will install the vfr helibars on my bike.

This is the info I'm looking for; not VFR bars on the Bird; but Helibars for the VFR on the Bird. Thanks for the responses. It would seem to me with this set-up I would need to change the cables.

Mike

[VFR Helibars - 2002 and up]

I have Heli Bars on my '02 Bird, b/c I'm height challenged, arms too, the original ride was a bit too aggressive for me. After 1000 kms I had the Heli's installed. 99,000 kms later, they still work perfect for me. Many others prefer VFR Bars, and they look excellent also. My 2 cents worth.

Thanks. Did you happen to need to change the cables. They look like they would need to be changed.

[VFR Helibars - 2002 and up]

Does anyone have VFR Helibars on their bike. I know the 2002 + stock VFR bars fit the bird, but does anyone huse the Helibars for this model. If you do use them, did the cables need to be change and do you like the riding postion?

Thanks.

[Bike running rich 1997 carb.]

Is it better to run it a little rich? Mine every now and then will blow black smoke then clear up then blow alittle more is it better to run it this way or should I lean it out a little. Air screws at at like 3 1/4 if i am not mistaken. Thanks in advance.

I have a 97 and have shimmed the needles, advanced the timing, punched the baffles and it began to run lean and pop on decel. I took off the PAIR valve system and backed the needles out 2 turns and it runs great. It sounds to me that 3 1/4 turns is too much.

Mike

[PAIR Valve question]

As i was reflecting the job a little while ago, I think I remember what I did or didn't do. There are supposed to be 2 breather hoses that attach to the air box aren't there? I remeber that there was one on the right side for sure, and I think as I was lifing the base of the airbox off that there might have been one on the left side as well. THe one that might have been on the left side slipped off on it's own and if that's true, I think I forgot to put it back on. I remeber that the right side one was clamped, but I can't remember if there was one on the left side.

I'll have to take it apart tommorow after work and double check things.

I recently did the same block-off but used rubber plugs and I noticed no change in the sound of the engine. Sounds to me as if you found the problem; a loose hose or something like that. I did the same thing, but it was a small vacuum hose between carbs 1 and 2 and only noticed it after trying to sync the carbs after blocking-off the PAIR valve.

Mike

[Tool for checking drive chain tension?]

Toe, with boot on, is good. Finger works too but it gets dirty if you don't have glove on.

As far as that sidestand stuff, the manual also says to check tension at several points along the chain to make sure the tension is even (otherwise you may have kinks). I find that easier to do on centerstand.

Like posted above, a locking tape stood up under the chain is what I use for adjustment.

It's suppose to be a side stand measurement because on the centerstand the tire hangs dropping the wheel and changing the measurement.

I noticed this after shimming the rear shock that the chain loosened a great deal so I check the tension as the book says. When weight is applied to the wheel the chain tightens and the slack tightens up.

[Tried Sea Foam....Awesome!!]

Are there any autopart stores that carry seafoam or do you have to mail order?

Thanks.

Here on the east coast, Autozone and Walmart carry the Seafoam product.

[What kind of MPG you folks getting?]

About 41 mpg with mixed riding, only 1 up. Timing advance, shimmed needles & PAIR removed.

[How to lower the brake pedal more?]

You could also remove the nut or maybe find a slimmer one. That way you can adjust the clevis even higher.

And Mike suggested cutting down the shaft because it will eventually hit the end of the brake lever if you adjust the clevis as high as you can.

Byrdman....Thanks for clarifying that for me. Sorry I wasn't clearer.

[How to lower the brake pedal more?]

Hi all,

I like to lower my brake pedal a little bit more but the upper nut is already

against the rubber boot. Is there a way to lower the pedal more?

Thanks!

Dremel off the shaft that the nut rides on. I cut off about 1/4" or so when I put the Buell pegs on and it allowed the nut to backoff enough to lower the pedal.