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Vacuum routing.

I noticed no one else had put it up, so WELCOME. Keep posting this stuff up, it's great. Duane

Precisely. Contrast that to Cycle Gear. :icon_think:

Promises, promises- I guess I just wasn't a good "fill in" for Will.

Thought I would post up about Cycle Gear- specifically Corporate, and Redding, CA. During TBME, we had several tires go, a chain, and a set of brakes. During multiple trips to Cycle Gear in Redding, we were all treated very well by Carlos and his staff. He gave us discounts on the parts- I don't know if this was a store wide thing, or if he gave it to us as a group thing after we had been in and identified ourselves a couple of times. When CAPPEL noticed my front tire had been mounted wrong, (backwards), by Cycle Gear San Antonio, Carlos loaned me stands to pull off the front wheel, helped with the work, remounted and balanced the tire for free- wouldn't hear of payment. He tried to throw in a set of brake pads I needed for the "inconvienence" too. All the while his entire staff was very helpful, came out to make sure I didn't need anything several times. At the corporate level, I had ordered a new pair of leathers for the trip. They arrived from the warehouse without knee pucks. Tiffany arranged for me to pick up a pair of pucks at the local store on my way out of town. On returning to SA, I had noticed that a zipper was going bad on the pants, and Tiffany, (again), arranged to have the pants sent to a tailor here in town on the Cycle Gear tab, and get them repaired. (I didn't want to return them, as they had been well broken in on the trip to CA) Great people, great service. :icon_clap:

Now granted, I haven't been around here all that long, but this has got to be some sort of record number of replies to a post by someone with 33 posts. Jeez, it took ol' Dave getting on politics and religion to get this much discussion. As I said in another thread, K4, I think this is like trying to argue the fastest way around a high bank oval with the Pettys. There's guys here that know this stuff forwards and backwards, and I figure if it was possible to get a 200 mph streetable XX, someone here would have it, and be telling the rest of us how to do it. Also, I don't know about the later models, but the whole Ram air thing bumping you from 140 to 170 ain't gonna fly- it's been tried and discarded as impractical, (easier ways to get better results.) Also, wouldn't everyone be doing it out at Bonneville just to get that cool "200 mph club" T-shirt.

Thanks, Joe. Going out to try the others now.

Who knows what color the RPM wire going into the ignition module in the rear of the 98 is? The book says it's Yellow/Green, but that wire is giving me no response. I'm trying to tap in a couple of monitors, and having no luck. Thanks.

Justin- damn fine mod! :icon_thumbsup: Now to get it to work with the sportvue.

When this happened to me, it was the vacuum hose- bad routing under the gas tank. The next time it happened, vacuum hose fell off of fuel selector. The next time it happened..... well you get the idea. If you've got fire and fuel, it's got to be something along the vacuum hose line. (Of course, my first thought was the angle sensor, but you covered that.)

Mike: I've got PIAA X002's on mine. I am thinking I'm going to leave them off though, as I'm putting the 'bird back together for TBME. My R/R started to go awhile back, and I'm not sure if adding the extra lights sent it out sooner, or just added to the problem or what. After asking around here, and adding some other stuff, I think I'm pretty much set with the HID. Also, there are some very bright LED set ups on Ebay that make you just as visable, and draw a fraction of the power. Beonwacko, BartonMD, Rockmeupto125, and Oldgeezer are really, really good resources for electrical type stuff. Also, for what you can do in the extreme, check out Warchild's "nighttrain" on his personal site. BTW, and FWIW, mine's a 1998, with the same power output as yours, and until the R/R started to go, the lights were really nice.

Yup. Thanks, Philip. Did you stay with just the two way tape? I drilled and screwed mine down. But that's just me, I'm weird about things that way. :icon_shifty:

Good link, Mike. Did you put a box around yours, or mount it as is? Duane

:icon_lmao: Oh, SHIT, that was a great visual. Thanks for the answers, guys. Mine is Radar, HID, Chatterbox and a Sportvue. The driving lights were already on for awhile. I think I'm going to leave the driving lights off now that I have the HID hooked up. Good idea, Adam. I just don't get how folks know when to stop. You look at Warchild's "Nighttrain", and you'd think this bike could power up an aircraft carrier. He's got EVERYTHING on his.

I'm very fuzzy on the whole system tie in thing. I have a 98 'bird. Now, on this system, I have the normal factory equipment, and have added some. For arguement's sake- and this isn't all mine- let's say you put in a radar detector, GPS, HID, Chatterbox hardwire, and driving lights. Five items. Except for the HID, you have between 3 and 5 amps of draw on each circuit, for a total of about 20 amps give or take. Not all of these items are on at start. Say only the lights come on with start. So, now, when I'm cruising along on the slab with everything on is the stator, R/R, and stock battery going to be up to this? And then, if I'm in traffic, when the RPM is down, will the stock system replenish the battery when back up to speed. How do you predict this? And how does the R/R and stator fit in? I understand the stator creates the juice, and I think the R/R must bring it down to a usable level to recharge the battery and operate the system. What am I missing here? Does the total amp draw matter in this case? Does anyone know what the limit may be, and is my hypothetical bike going to just die all the time? (I just used the most popular farkles on the board for the example, mine are not as numerous, and somewhat different.) There's alot of info on the net that frankly, I don't really understand. Simplified answers would be good. Thanks as always.

Egggggsellent! Thanks, Brian. Always good to hear it from someone who knows what's what.

I replaced the chain and both sprokets last night. I did alot of research into how to get it right, but now have a couple of monday morning quarterback questions. Does the front sproket need a coating of grease against the shaft? The chain came lubed. I didn't see anything about doing anything special in any of the manuals or online stuff, or on the box. However, this morning, I came across an article that advocated getting all that packing lube off, and reoiling the chain. What about this? The master link and O rings were already lubed, too, and this article said to make sure you apply lube to the link and o-rings to prevent early wearing out. Now, I'm second guessing and ready to pull it and start over. Any thoughts? It's an RK X chain, attached to OEM 17/45 set up- this from 16/45 I had on previously.

BAH- she didn't let you down, you let her down- abuse, abuse, abuse. (J/K) Mine did the same thing awhile back. Old battery, added farkles. Replaced battery, problem solved for now. From the answers others gave me awhile back, you may already have the higher output stator, I think 99 was the year they changed up. I don't think the R1 R/R makes it any better, but check your voltage outputs at idle and about 3000-4000 RPM. I think the book says somewhere around 14.5 at the higher RPM. (I'm saying "I think" alot, becuase I'm at work, and don't have my references with me.) The things you're describing though, are definately the 'bird being smart about herself. Mine shut everything down, RPM and Speedo first, lights next, fan and then just stopped running. IMHO though, change out the battery first. You've got a good one. The YUASA is what I've got now, from a cheaper initial battery.

Ordered a laminar LIP 5/8/2006, arrived at the door 5/11/2006. Immediate- and I mean within 1 minute- sales confirmation by email. Tracking number the next AM, (I ordered it at about midnight). I wouldn't order one from a resaler. No point.

Anybody have any idea if using loctite on the disc bolts and cush drive nuts is acceptable? Not on the discs themselves, just the bolts that attach them to the rims.

For what you save in not having to screw around with adjustments, and getting it "just right", I'd buy the kit and leave it at that. I don't have a real good idea of what kit is best- I went with whatever the wrench I use put on- but it makes a huge difference in getting rid of the flat spot. (Between that and the pipes.) Hey! One I actually knew the answer to.

:icon_doh: So now that I have the front wheel off, I see why noone responded to the question about still getting the wheel off with the stand in place. I thought the wheel dropped down and out instead of just out by the axle. Next question though, do you need a clamp or anything to hold the calipers while you replace the brake pads, or will compressing them and not touching the brake do. In the old days, you had to clamp the cage's (GM) calipers. The book doesn't show it that way, but then it assumed I knew how to get the wheel off, too. Thanks. Edit: Another D'OH. Yep, it's on the 'bird.

I figured that might be the case. It didn't look right. Can you still get the front wheel off with that stand? The Pit bull I looked at didn't seem to have that capability. Bob- I don't have a center stand, had to take it off when the 4-1 was put on, it never sat right after that, and I never got around to adding that stand stop, and haven't really needed to until now, but thanks for the info, I may put it back on and do it your way if the front stand doesn't work out.

I need a quick answer if anyone knows. I have a rear Motoboss stand, and the back wheel is off the ground. I'm taking of the wheels for some work, and they will be off about a week by the time all is said and done. The wrench that I use says that for the front, a jack stand under the header will suffice to get the front off the ground. It works, but I don't know how comfortable I am leaving it up there for a week. Anyone know if this is a bad idea?

+1. It looks the same as the one on my '98 two cents more.