IcePrick
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Posts posted by IcePrick
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14 minutes ago, Furbird said:
Scenario... mother exits vehicle. Walks around car to get child from passenger rear. Vehicle passively locks. Keys, phone, and kid are inside car. In Southeast or Arizona summertime. Safety glass (it's 2023...)
Satan giggles at your ignorance.
Passive locks are, in fact, the devil.Darwin.
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13 minutes ago, blackhawkxx said:
I always look read through the manual but either missed the hidden key hole or it isn't in there. I already knew about the shifter lock out at least on Fords and Ford supplies a funnel with the vehicle for adding gas. I never step out of the house without my knife and flashlight plus 99% of the time, a weapon.
I didn't mean to direct that at anybody in particular, though on second glance I see how it came across as harsh.
Just by the very nature of the site here, we tend to be machine-oriented people - probably waaaay out of the norm in the knowledge of our vehicles (and waaaay out of the norm in other areas as well).
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I'm sure most people don't know about the hidden key in their fob and the hidden keyhole on their car.
There are all sorts of little nuggets of wisdom in that 350+ page book in the glovebox. Since nobody ever reads it, they'll probably soon resort to putting a QR code sticker inside the glovebox and tell you to look it up online so they don't have to spend the money publishing it.
How many average folks know how to get their modern auto-transmission car into neutral without battery power? Can they find the towing eye for their car? How do you pour gas from a portable tank without a nozzle into those tricky new gas fillers? Just a wild-assed guess, but information of that sort might be in that manual, and reading it by flashlight (you DO have two of them charged and handy, right?) beside a busy highway while the sketchy-looking tow truck driver roots around in your car trying to figure it out himself probably isn't the best time.
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No key in the fob? I didn't think anyone made a car without a hard key.
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Nice work!
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5 hours ago, SwampNut said:
That advice depends on what you drill. Tap Magic solved 90% of my hate for steel, but my drilling is mostly not steel and it won't help.
Errr... good point. I hadn't even thought about drilling things other than steel. Mistic makes a different product for aluminum, but I've never used it.
I've rarely had issues drilling through wood, if the bit is dull it just starts a fire and burns through. No, I don't like working with wood.
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6 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:
Yikes! A bit pricey…but worth it if you’ll use it enough. I rarely use my drill, but I need new bits…or an easy way to correctly sharpen them.Seriously, try the cutting fluid I posted and some affordable bits first. I have some cheapie Black and Decker bits that a neighbor gave me when her son passed away, they cut much better with the correct lubrication and have lasted way longer than I thought they would. The guy at the welding store said "that stuff will change your life" when I brought the can to the counter, and after using it for a while, I think it is a major improvement in cutting. The Vortex bits are a big investment if you don't make lots of holes.
Sharpening is part art, part science - and difficult to master in my experience. There is no fool-proof tool that I'm aware of. I bought these bits to avoid having to go through the expense and frustration of the newest/latest/greatest sharpener and the learning curve, only to be disappointed again. I have a friend who is a master at it, but he's also a machinist so he has that gene.
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Yeah, they're good. They self-pilot, and don't wander. My buddy just hand-drilled over 10,000 holes in roofing sheetmetal with the 3/16 from my set. He was reluctant to use them at first, said they were "gimmicky". After the first 3000 holes, I had to head home... he said he'd mail it back to me.
They also do a weird thing that most bits won't: enlarge a tapered hole in a steering knuckle for a top-mount tie-rod. Instead of catching and breaking the bit (or your wrist), the tapered point engages the taper of the existing hole without drama.
The price was hard to swallow, for sure. But like buying good sunglasses, you'll be more careful with them. I used to use whatever oil was hanging around for drill lubricant, but I bought some Mistic Metal Mover - and it is indeed an improvement.
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1 hour ago, SwampNut said:
German word for brazier, I know. The way that my top case attaches to the OEM plate leaves a lot of plastic hanging unsupported, so it bounces a lot. I saw it when I swapped bikes and rode behind my own, and I noticed this on Joe's XX too. Now I can't unsee it, and it bothers me a lot. Perhaps unwarranted, or perhaps a real potential problem, particularly since I'll put 30 pounds of groceries in it and I think it's rated for like 15 pounds. So....
Yes, 1/4 is probably overkill, which is always the right amount of kill.
When it arrives, my inclination is to cut it on the table saw. Lots of people say it's great for that. I have a variety of blades, none of which are "perfect" for it, but I think close enough. I think the 80 tooth (8 tpi, 10" blade) fine-cut is my best choice.
Plasma works on aluminum, it leaves an edge that looks like it was sandblasted with heavy grit.
I'll be interested in hearing what your table saw does with it, I think metal saws run at much lower RPM and have blades designed for the task. But we work with the tools we have (unless a new project is just an excuse for a new tool, it's not even a secret of mine anymore).
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1 hour ago, superhawk996 said:
I put a Pertronix in my sandrail. I made it about 5 miles downhill from camp when it died. Luckily I had the old points with me along with tools. I never did get around to properly gapping them, the precision eyeball setting ran perfectly for the rest of the season and then I sold it.
Huh. I had Pertronix in boats, cars, trucks... never a single problem with them. They used to be much cheaper, too, I see they're around $100 now, I think they were around $40 back then.
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Unless one wants to experience the full charm of 1950's automotive technology and all of the bad that goes along with it, points are just an ugly memory. I can't imagine owning a points distributor that hasn't had a Pertronix Ignitor installed.
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1 hour ago, SwampNut said:
Boiled peanuts are one of the nastiest things on the planet. Tastes like spoiled food and roadkill, smells like hot dog shit.
Hmmm. I've always liked them, but they've always been done in very strong/spicy broths. Maybe some convenience store peanuts would suck, but there used to be a guy in Townsend, TN that sold home-made walking sticks out of his shack - he always had a crock pot of peanuts going, a dollar for a quart of them, and they were always amazing. I've actually had really good ones at convenience stores in northeastern TN, also.
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Quick, someone come up with a virus that a shot** of that stuff will cure*.
*edit*
*cure, as in, won't protect you from it or prevent transmission of it.
**edit2**
**"a shot", as in, a series of 3 or more, possibly extending to annually or semi-annually as required.
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2 hours ago, tomek said:
Well, yea, of course. There are no reasons to use canned, frozen or precut if fresh veggies are available. Also, those precut are packed in plastic bags. Not ideal.
Good point on the plastic, I never considered that.
53 minutes ago, blackhawkxx said:Haven't watched the video yet but we try to avoid precut veggies. Many times there have been recalls on precut packaged vegs with different kinds of bacteria in them that can harm you plus they cost more.
I sometimes buy celery (convenience, and it seems to last longer) precut/packaged and usually buy bags of broccoli florets. The broccoli gets way more actual product than whole broccoli that generally yields half the weight in stalks. Even the product labeled "broccoli crowns" is cut long to profit from the weight of the stalk. Yes, there are uses for the stalks, but not in my "application".
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On 9/21/2023 at 10:23 AM, SwampNut said:
So far, I've only found it at Target.
Sweet. You can pick up some tofu while browsing for tuckable bikinis. Very convenient!
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18 minutes ago, SwampNut said:
There's also some crazy magic I can't figure out. If I connect my external travel battery to the MBP while the MBP is on power, it charges the pack. If it's off power, it gets charged by the pack.
Sooo... you mean... it just works? Weird!
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Probably the Fusion 360 engineering rendering. They can look pretty lifelike, and if the photo renderings were grabbed at different modification stages or a box accidentally unchecked that resulted in hiding a stage, it will leave out elements in the final.
Looking at the grey fade on the left side of the upper pic, I'm almost positive that it's a CAD generation.
The people in marketing? They're not engineers or users, and would probably just give you a blank stare if you pointed it out to them.
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I watched his tutorial on "spot seasoning". Turns out this is what I've always done, quite by accident. Get the wok over high heat, momentarily panic that I haven't retrieved any of my favorite oil wok from the cupboard, find and open the right bottle, drop some in the wok, let it *lightly* smoke for a little bit, swirl it around some, then reduce temp and cook once it stops smoking.
Thanks to this thread, last night I pulled down the new-ish SS wok I bought at the restaurant supply store a while back. Some frozen chopped veggies and about 10 minutes later, I had a tasty dinner after the addition of some 5 spice and General Tso's sauce. I usually use my woks outside on a huge Camp Chef burner, but the stove works fine for smaller batches, a collector helps considerably.
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29 minutes ago, rockmeupto125 said:
I want to bond sheet plastic as a radiant barrier to Glass Reinforced Fiber (GRF) facing on polyiso insulation. Both are pretty inert.
I wonder if wallpaper adhesive would work. That's like $90/5 gal. I did find some subfloor adhesive for $80 as well.
The question I would have with the subfloor adhesive and contact cement are the solvents they use. The wallpaper adhesive would probably not have any negative effect, but if the application requires any flexibility at all, I would think it would fracture and possibly detach.
Sounds like some science experiments are in your future! Following.
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Many people use Glidden Gripper, a primer sealer, to adhere fiberglass screen to extruded polystyrene boards to join them and/or give them additional rigidity. It may be the ticket if it doesn't interfere with the chemical properties of either surface you're using.
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I've seen a few of them, but never made one myself. Seems sort of low-budget to me, but they did function. I never questioned the "why", just guessing that someone was impatient to do a startup on a long project and didn't have the right spacer (or none at all)... bang something out with the scroll saw and drill press, it works so never changed it?
Maybe plywood as a proof-of-concept if it's an experimental configuration, then make a final product out of phenolic resin laminate. I would guess you can work the latter with woodworking tools, maybe with some speed adjustments and/or cooling/lubrication.
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Damn. Making a guitar, particularly a hollow body one (no points detracted because it's "just a uke") has got to be near the pinnacle of the woodworking craft. It not only has to look good, but it has to be very stable and sound good.
Very impressive!
Tires and Tire changers
in The Garage
Posted
I've been happy with my No-Mar changer, it is an old top-end commercial one. I can't vouch for their entry-level model, though it appears to work the same way. They're also having a Black Friday event right now that has some respectable discounts across the line. Beware of all the stuff you're going to want to add on to it, they're proud of their gadgets though it works great when you use all of their tools together. The Yellow Thing and Xtra Hand are really helpful, the latter can be had as a knock-off on Amazon for less than half price - they work best in pairs.
Unless Harbor Freight has made major updates to their offering, I'd pass. Then again, there may be some improvements you can make to make it easier/more functional. YouTube might be a good place to look for that data.
I use a Marc Parnes balancer, I can usually get very good with it but last year I had some difficulty on one. It takes a long time to balance with a gravity balancer, but for the price I never explored other options. I have more time than money these days.